Is it necessary to trim the leaves of cucumbers: 7 useful tips and 2 cutting schemes to increase productivity

Mid-July is the time for cucumber bushes to form and the first flowers to appear. It's time to think about pruning the plants, since the future harvest depends on this procedure. Very often, summer residents ignore it, letting the process take its course. In the garden, where there is enough space to spread long vines, this is not so scary. It’s a completely different matter in closed ground, where space is limited and every centimeter of it must be used rationally. Under this condition, the harvest in the future will depend on which cucumber pruning scheme is chosen in the greenhouse.

Caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse after formation (table)

Forming a bush is only part of the activities on the way to a bountiful harvest. In addition, you will have to constantly care for the cucumber crop.

Everything is not so difficult, the main thing is that there is a desire to work and achieve good results. And it will definitely happen if you follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners, watch video lessons and follow agricultural practices.

Is it necessary to trim (tear off) the mustache to get a larger harvest?

Many agronomists are sure that pinching cucumbers, that is, trimming leaves and shoots, is an unnecessary procedure. Let's look in more detail at whether it is necessary to trim only the leaves of the cucumbers or also the tendrils.

The cucumber produces both male and female shoots. Male shoots grow on the main stem. These shoots are barren flowers. They don't produce crops. To increase the yield, female shoots must appear, which grow exclusively on the side shoots.

That is why you need to pinch the male shoots from the main stem. It is recommended to leave the leaves, because thanks to them the plant absorbs nutrients. When pinching, you need to leave side shoots with female flowers that produce a harvest. If the male shoots are not removed, this may cause the cucumbers to taste bitter.

For a large harvest, it is recommended to correctly form the lashes on the plant. If hybrid varieties of cucumbers are grown, it is recommended to pinch the tops after the sixth leaf. In this case, three shoots are left, and everything else is disposed of.

If you grow ordinary varieties of cucumbers, it is recommended to leave one stem. At the same time, you need to get rid of the remaining shoots. Thanks to these recommendations, you can increase the yield of homemade cucumbers.

Purposes of pruning cucumbers in greenhouses

Without pruning, both the plant itself and future yields may suffer. Therefore, you should know how to trim cucumbers in a greenhouse. The event must be carried out on time in order to:

• Collect an abundant, friendly harvest of beautiful fruits of the same size.
• Forming a powerful leaf apparatus is the key to obtaining a large number of fruits.
• Do not thicken the space of the polycarbonate greenhouse, as with uncontrolled growth, long vines will fill it. In this case, nutrients will be spent not on fruits, but on the growth of new leaves and stepsons.
• Have access to plants in order to carry out proper care, watering, fertilizing and collecting greens.
• Collect all the fruits without leaving some of them unnoticed. Otherwise, they will remain hanging on chaotically growing shoots. Increasing in size, the giant fruits will consume useful elements, and the growth of the greens from the new ovary will stop.
• Avoid shading when the density is created, otherwise the shoots may be susceptible to various diseases.
• Avoid crowding to avoid uneven distribution of light.
• Protect the crop from infections from the soil that can infect the lower leaves in contact with the ground. They should be removed when pruning.

Beginners in gardening often wonder whether it is necessary and whether it is possible to pick off the leaves of cucumbers. The answer is simple: no, but they can and should be pruned, because they consume the nutrition that the plant and fruits need. It is advisable to also remove the leaves located on the segment of the stem from the soil to 30-40 centimeters in height, because they no longer provide nutrition for the vine.

Advice. Thinning pruning should be done when large leaf plates block access to light and sunlight.

Is it necessary to pick leaves from cucumbers in a greenhouse?

Pruning cucumbers is considered an important agrotechnical technique when growing vegetables. It is carried out for better and longer fruiting.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=4dNbd9hWVIY

There is one more procedure that is needed to increase the quality and quantity of the harvest. The formation of cucumber bushes directly affects their healthy growth and development. Light and air will flow freely to all parts of the plant. The risk of contracting infections is reduced. All micronutrients will be spent not on the development of green tops, but on the growth of a crunchy and sweet cucumber.

There is another argument whether it is necessary to pick off the leaves of cucumbers. Uncontrolled formation of foliage and ovaries leads to increased work of the root system. The fruits will not receive enough nutrients, will grow poorly, become deformed, and will taste bitter.

It is also necessary to remove leaves from cucumbers because a large number of them becomes an obstacle to the free passage of air. The leaves begin to turn yellow, wither, and the taste of the fruit decreases.

Forming bushes in the limited space of a greenhouse allows you to freely approach each bush. You can easily loosen and water the soil, weed and spray.

Tying the stem to a support significantly saves space. This procedure reduces the risk of developing infectious diseases and rot. A ripe, good harvest becomes easy and convenient to harvest.

conclusions

Now you know whether it is necessary to remove leaves from cucumbers and how to do it correctly. Shaping cucumber vines by pruning helps fight disease and increases yield. The plants are well ventilated, the sun's rays evenly illuminate the leaves and fruits, and insects can easily pollinate the inflorescences.

You also learned how to remove leaves from cucumbers so as not to damage the ovaries or break the vines. By removing the male inflorescences, you will direct the plant’s energy to the growth and ripening of fruits. Carry out pruning carefully using our recommendations and advice.

General rules for pruning cucumbers in a greenhouse

Stages of planting and growing cucumbers.

To begin with, we will consider in detail the general useful rules for pruning cucumbers, which are suitable for absolutely all varieties. They must be strictly observed with any method of pruning plants if you want to get a good harvest and healthy, strong shoots.

never delay pruning excess shoots on cucumbers, otherwise this may lead to tangling of the vines and their thinning; Do not cut off the entire cucumber vine, but only part of it to the growing point. Otherwise, you can easily injure the plant, which in the future can lead to the drying out of such a shoot; If a large number of barren flowers form on a cucumber shoot, first lightly dry the soil in the greenhouse and limit the supply of nitrogen fertilizers to the plants. After this, cut off all growth points on such shoots. Then you should simply pick off the empty flowers without touching the shoots. Such procedures will provoke the loss of all useful substances not into empty flowers and shoots, but into the formation of juicy fruits; About once every 10 days it is necessary to remove all yellowed leaves from the shoots. You also need to pick off those leaves that grow at the very bottom of the ground, that is, below the level of fruit formation. And at the level of fruiting shoots, you need to leave only two or three leaves on the shoot. All above-positioned young green leaves should not be touched; never direct the tendrils of the top of the shoot along the hedge. Otherwise, they can wander along, thereby creating a shadow for the underlying flowers and fruits; If you are growing cucumbers that are pollinated exclusively by bees, provide adequate space between the supporting fences

It is very important that narrow passages and a large number of leaves between them do not prevent insects from approaching the flowers; Do not touch the upper newly formed tendrils and lashes under any circumstances while harvesting cucumbers. This can lead to a sharp reduction in the number of subsequent ovaries.

Practical advice

Pruning the side shoots of a cucumber plant should not be delayed. In order not to injure the plant, it is necessary to remove only the growing point, and not the entire lash. Trimming is done with sharp scissors. Under no circumstances should you break it out. Otherwise, wounds will form on the plant, which will take a very long time to heal.

If there are many shoots on a cucumber bush with only barren flowers, you should not rush to cut them out. It is necessary to dry the soil in the greenhouse, reduce nitrogen nutrition and trim the growing point on the shoots. After these procedures, all the nutrients from the shoots will “go” into the fruit.

During harvesting, the position of the upper vines must not be changed. Otherwise, the plant will stop growing, begin to turn yellow, and the number of cucumbers will greatly decrease.

Every few days it is necessary to remove yellowed leaves and those growing below the fruiting zone. You only need to leave two or three sheets before it.

Are cucumbers pruned in a greenhouse?

But despite all the advantages, growing cucumbers in a greenhouse has one significant disadvantage. Plants require more careful care in terms of staking and bush formation. In principle, cucumbers in beds also require regular pruning, but not so often.

Why is it necessary to trim cucumbers in a greenhouse? Cucumbers in general require quite a lot of growing space. It is then that they will give good results. In a greenhouse, the areas are small.

• Unlimited formation of side shoots and, accordingly, ovaries on them leads to the fact that the root system of the plant ceases to cope with supplying the plant with the necessary microelements. As a result, the greens become smaller, and the proportion of substandard fruits increases. It is for this reason that bushes growing on ridges are pruned.
• Uncontrolled growth of plants in a greenhouse will make caring for them labor-intensive over time. As they grow, they cling to each other, disturbing both themselves and the grower.
• In addition, in this case it is difficult to ventilate the greenhouse and organize proper watering without getting water on the leaves. All this increases the chances of the bushes being damaged by fungi, viruses or pests.

Therefore, gardeners are faced with the task of correctly forming a bush. If this can be done, then the chances of an excellent harvest increase.

How to properly form a cucumber bush

To properly form a bush, you need to know what type of plant it is. Hybrids and varietal cucumbers are pruned differently. The pruning of bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic varieties will also differ.

There are several general rules for forming cucumber bushes in a greenhouse.

• In closed ground, preference is given to the vertical method of growing cucumbers. In this case, a trellis is pulled along the top of the greenhouse and twine is lowered to each bush, around which the stem will curl.
• The formation of the bush begins 10-14 days after germination. It may not be necessary to trim the side shoots yet, but it is worth giving them the right direction.
• Pruning must be timely. The plant will tolerate the removal of the growing point much easier than the lashes 50-70 cm long.
• All operations are carried out with a clean and sharp knife. Do not cut off or break off the stems so as not to damage the plant. Such wounds take a long time to heal and can lead to bush diseases
• It is advisable to prune on sunny days. Further nuances are possible.

Pruning hybrid parthenocarpic varieties of cucumbers

Hybrid parthenocarpic varieties produce predominantly female flowers. Ovaries are formed throughout the plant. About a third is on the main stem and the rest on the side shoots. As a rule, hybrids lead to one trunk.

• They inspect the stem and blind it from the second to the fourth leaf, that is, they remove not only the shoots in the axils of the leaves, but also the flowers or ovaries.
• From the fifth to the eighth node, one inflorescence and two or three leaves are left on the side shoots, and the growing point is pinched.
• The next section is one of the main fruiting zones and continues to the trellis. Two inflorescences and three to four leaves are left here. The growth point is also removed.
• The stem is thrown over the trellis and hung down and pinched through three or four leaves.

Further development and fruiting will occur on three shoots formed from the axils of these leaves. The shoots are pinched at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from the ground.

Experienced gardeners do not recommend directing the vines along a stretched trellis so that they do not form a kind of tent that interferes with the access of light to the greenhouse. Although some varieties are recommended by breeders to grow this way. For example, Junior Lieutenant" or "Hit of the Season."

Pruning bee-pollinated cucumber varieties

When pruning such varieties, it is taken into account that female, fruiting flowers are formed on the side shoots, so they require more gentle methods. In greenhouses it is also recommended to grow them in one stem.

• Only the first two shoots are removed.
• Then, as they grow, three or four inflorescences are left on the shoots. Pinch shoots at a distance of four to five leaves from the main stem.
• The growing point of the main stem is removed as soon as it reaches the trellis.

Benefits of forming cucumber bushes

Trimming the leaves increases the yield and taste of the fruit, because the plant does not waste energy on the growth of vines:

• new ovaries form faster;
• bitterness disappears from cucumbers;
• fruits of the correct shape are formed;
• less water is required to water the bush;
• air circulation improves;
• improved access to plant roots for weeding and loosening;
• makes harvesting easier.

By trimming excess leaves, they reduce the density of the bushes - the plant receives more light and is better ventilated, which reduces the likelihood of fungal diseases.

The choice of method for forming a cucumber bush depends on the method of pollination of the variety (parthenocarpic and bee-pollinated), the timing of ripening (early ripening, mid-ripening, late ripening), the method of planting (row, checkerboard) and garter (vertical, horizontal or net).

Reference. When growing cucumbers in greenhouses, the bush is formed into one stem, in open ground - into two or three vines.

Purposes of pruning cucumbers

It is recommended to understand in advance the main purposes of pruning the shoots of cucumber bushes. The procedure is carried out for:

• formation of powerful bushes that will bear fruit longer;
• thinning bushes so that long vines do not shade the lower branches of plants;
• simplifying watering, fertilizing and harvesting ripened crops;
• protecting seedlings from dangerous fungal and viral diseases that require treatment.

Gardeners also recommend removing weakened branches that will not bear fruit. This is done to increase the yield of planted cucumbers.

Garter of cucumbers to a trellis

In a greenhouse, cucumbers definitely need support. This way the usable area will be used rationally, and the plants will receive more lighting.

Trellis are installed as support before planting seedlings:

• A vertical trellis is a wire stretched horizontally at a height of 2 to 2.2 m along the entire row of cucumbers, from which ropes are lowered down to each bush;
• Horizontal support - 3-5 levels of wire are pulled horizontally along the row in increments of 40-50 cm;
• V-shaped trellis - mounted according to the vertical principle, but two ropes are lowered from the upper support to the bushes, placing them on different sides;
• Cucumber mesh is a nylon trellis with large cells, which is stretched along a row onto supports.

Seedlings are planted at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other so that there is enough space for the bushes to grow and care for them. This is also necessary so that pruning the leaves of cucumbers is not difficult. 7-10 days after planting, they begin tying the cucumbers to the trellis, after watering them.

When gartering, fragile seedlings are easily pulled out of the ground, so you need to act very carefully. A loop of fastening rope is placed on the bush under the second leaf. It should not be tight and have a gap to thicken the stem. The second end of the rope is attached to the trellis so that its tension is free. As they grow, the direction of the lashes is adjusted by wrapping them around with a fastening rope.

Methods for tying bushes before shaping

A garter is the securing and guiding of a cucumber vine along a guide. In a tied plant, it is easy to identify the main stem and lateral shoots.

Cucumbers are gartered when 4-6 leaves form on the vine, and the plant itself grows more than 30 cm long. A special structure is built for gartering, which will help the bush form and free up space in the garden bed.

Prepare materials for making supports:

• two-meter posts made of wood or metal;
• twine or cord;
• plastic mesh;
• hooks for fastening;
• fixing pegs;
• strips of soft fabric (cotton, knitwear) 3-4 cm wide;
• tools – hammer and pliers;
• nails.

It is not recommended to use thin wire for gartering - it can injure the plants.

There are several methods for gartering cucumbers - let's look at each in more detail.

Vertical

This method is convenient because each plant will have an individual support along which it can climb:

Inside the greenhouse, along the edges of the bed, a U-shaped structure 2 m high is placed - if the bed is long, you can put an additional support in the middle of the P. One end of a rope or twine is attached to the upper horizontal bar, the number of which depends on the number of cucumber seedlings. The second end is lowered down, pulled and secured in the ground with pegs or pins next to the bush. The cucumber stem is carefully wrapped around the support, directing it clockwise. The plant is carefully secured with strips of fabric.

Horizontal

This method is used in open ground or low greenhouses:

1. On both sides of the beds, supports 1.5-2 m high are dug in - there are two pillars for each row of cucumbers.
2. Between them, at a distance of about 30 cm from the ground, stretch the first row of cord or twine.
3. Parallel to the first, several rows of cord are pulled at the same distance (25-30 cm) from each other to the very top.
4. Young shoots are carefully directed to the lower tier of the structure; they can be secured with strips of soft fabric so that they do not fall; then they themselves will begin to crawl along the rows of the support and form.

The disadvantage of this method is that as soon as the cucumber vine reaches the upper level, it will no longer be able to continue to rise further and will begin to hang down, shading the lower part of the plant and interfering with the care of the bush.

Mesh

The stores offer a large selection of nets for weaving plants - they are easy to install, have large cells and are made of durable, non-rotting materials:

1. Two supports up to 2.5 m high are dug in on both sides of the bed.
2. The mesh is stretched and firmly secured between them.
3. The bushes are directed onto the net and, if necessary, secured with strips of fabric.
4. The cucumber vine itself is woven into the mesh and formed.

When gartering, the lashes are tied loosely, without tension, so as not to tear the plant out of the ground. The top is left free, otherwise the plant will begin to turn yellow and wither.

How to trim (pluck) leaves

There are several ways to prune cucumbers—general and lightening pruning. They are used for different varieties of cucumbers. General pruning is recommended for self-pollinating varieties. Lightening pruning is only needed for weakened plants and plants that are sick. Let's look at how to prune leaves correctly.

General pruning is carried out for self-pollinating varieties. Most cucumbers are of this variety. These varieties grow best in a single stem.

In this case, such a main stem grows strong and can bear a large number of fruits. You don't have to worry about the harvest not being enough. On this main stem, side shoots are also formed. Usually there are a lot of them, and they also produce a harvest.

Before pruning, the plant is divided into four parts. The first part is the base of the lash near the ground, the second is the next meter of the lash (approximately 4 knots of growth), the third is, respectively, the next 0.5 meters, and the fourth part is the top.

Let's look at whether it is necessary to pick off the lower leaves of cucumbers. In the first part, it is recommended to remove all inflorescences that are very close to the soil and those shoots that are in the axils. Leaves that touch the ground and turn yellow need to be removed. This is done to ensure good ventilation and to prevent root rot of the plant.

On the second part of the plant, it is recommended to trim the growing point and get rid of empty flowers. A few leaves are left in this area, and as for the fruits, 3-4 of them are left.

On the third part of the plant, three nodes are selected on which 3-4 fruits will grow. Half as many leaves are left in this area. Other nodes can be left alone.

This pruning ensures even ripening of the cucumbers and makes them juicier. After such pruning, the yield increases in the nodes of the vine that were not touched. On the fourth part of the plant, cut off the growing point on the fourth leaf from the top. This allows the plant to grow and develop faster. Next, the antennae are secured to the very top garter part of the wire (or fishing line/thread).

This part of the cucumbers is constantly adjusted - from time to time the tendrils are fixed on a wire, and they need to be thrown in a checkerboard pattern. Such actions ensure uniform illumination of the plant and allow convenient harvesting.

Brightening

Let's take a look at this question: is it necessary to trim the leaves on cucumbers during lightening pruning?

This pruning is done along the entire length of the plant. You also need to remove excess ovary. This should leave approximately six ovary nodes and some foliage on the plant.

Such radical pruning improves the ventilation of the plant and increases illumination. After pruning, the nutrients are used to restore the vine and form a good harvest of cucumbers.

Recommendations for removing sheets

To minimize stress for the plant, pruning the cucumber crop is recommended in sunny weather. Do not water the beds before or after removing leaves. The moisture that plants feed on will slow down the drying process of the damaged part of the tops. Non-dried areas of cuts serve as good entry points for pathogenic microflora. When the damaged areas heal, the garden crop can be watered and fertilized.

They do not provide any benefit, but only take away some of the nutrients. Plucking barren flowers also stimulates the appearance of female flowers.

Leaf trimming can be done in 2 ways:

• cutting a leaf with half a petiole;
• removal of a leaf plate.

Regardless of the method chosen, you should use scissors, a knife or pruning shears to complete the job. Garden tools must be well sharpened. Additionally, the blade can be treated with an antiseptic solution. It is not recommended to break cucumbers with your hands. A carelessly plucked shoot or leaf can damage the main stem of the plant. This will cause the garden crop to experience severe stress. The recovery process will take a long time, so the yield will decrease.

Basic principles of pruning

How to properly trim cucumbers in a greenhouse? This is the formation of bushes, their formation according to the model required for their good growth and development. To do this correctly, you need:

• know how different varieties are pollinated;
• It’s good to know what kind of cucumbers grow in the greenhouse. The pruning will depend on this (bush or vine).

General rules applicable to all types and varieties

• greenhouse cucumbers and pruning are related concepts;
• pruning should be done no earlier than 10 days after planting, after tying up the bushes;
• do not perform pruning with a dirty tool, as this can cause infection;
• Stumps should not be left;
• You should always remove ovaries and flowers from the bottom of the bush. You need to start from the moment the young bush acquires 5 leaves;
• Unfortunately, the matter will not be limited to just pruning. As the stem grows upward, you will need to carry out this procedure;
• no need to tear off the top of the bush with your hands, use a sharp tool;
• Pruning activities should be carried out in the morning so that in the evening the wounds heal and the bushes do not get infected;
• Dead leaves on old bushes should be removed regularly. Yellow and brown, they can disrupt the movement of juices in the stem;
• Keep in mind that the upper parts of the bushes need a lot of light, so at the top the lashes are not directed along the crossbars, but thrown over them;
• sunlight and regular watering do their job: the foliage grows constantly. Inspection, pruning and garter should be constant;
• varieties pollinated by bees should grow in one stem;
• How do you know if your actions are correct? Look at the formed bush. It should be shaped like an inverted isosceles triangle.

Timing for the formation of cucumber bushes

It is very important to observe the timing of pinching bushes, otherwise they may waste energy on extra shoots and form few ovaries and flowers.

• You can start shaping as soon as the stepsons have already grown to 5 cm. There is no need to worry, this will not harm the bush.
• Don’t be lazy, immediately after planting the seedlings, tie the main stem of the bush to the top crossbar with a rope or twine.
• Do not allow the shoots to harden. It's better to cut them off in advance.
• Has the top grown very long already? Great! Make a loop out of it and tie it to the trellis above.
• The side shoots need to be pinched taking into account the size of your greenhouse.
• You can pick up to 5 leaves from each node. A smaller volume is not effective, and a larger volume can harm the plant.

Common mistakes gardeners make

Cucumbers have been grown for a long time, but gardeners continue to make mistakes in caring for them:

1. Ventilation of the greenhouse. This should be done if the temperature has risen to 30 degrees. It is unacceptable to open all windows and doors at once, creating a draft.
2. Abundance of moisture and uneven watering. Gardeners often water cucumbers generously. Although the culture loves moisture, it is not in such quantity. Moreover, uneven watering first depletes the plant with drought, and then leads to loss of ovaries due to excess moisture. Seedlings should be watered once a week, using 10 liters of water per 1 m2 of soil.
3. No crop rotation. Some farmers are inclined to think that if this year brought a good harvest of cucumbers, then next year they need to be planted in the same place. It is not right. Crop rotation helps plants obtain nutrients left behind by their predecessors. It should be remembered that crop rotation involves alternating different crops on a piece of land.

Attention: cucumbers, pumpkin, zucchini and squash are identical to each other. You can swap them with root crops or berries. Attentive attitude to planting and a genuine interest in knowledge of agricultural technology will help over time to achieve perfection in growing garden crops

Attentive attention to planting and a genuine interest in knowledge of agricultural technology will help over time to achieve perfection in growing garden crops.

Previous CucumbersHow to plant cucumbers in different patterns in a greenhouse Next CucumbersHow to properly grow and care for cucumbers in open ground

How to care after shaping

The most important thing in caring for cucumbers is constant monitoring of the condition of the bush. It is necessary to water the plants and apply fertilizing in strictly limited quantities every week and a half: in a greenhouse, excess fertilizer can lead to a deterioration in the taste of the fruit, increased branching and even the death of the plant.

The fact is that in a limited area, nutrients cannot go deep into the soil. Nitrates will accumulate in the soil and cucumbers, which is why the crop will no longer have the same value.

For irrigation use only warm water. It is better if it takes place during the day in a greenhouse. Then by evening the liquid will become the same temperature as the environment. Watering must be done in the morning or evening, when there is no active sun.

Once formed, cucumbers require careful care.

The regularity of watering depends on the moisture content of the soil. When the top layer dries, it is necessary to add water.

Important! There is no natural air circulation in greenhouses, and frequent ventilation will damage the cucumbers. Therefore, immediately after watering, the soil is mulched. Dry grass is added to the holes to prevent evaporation. This is an excellent prevention against fungal diseases.

It is also necessary to regularly collect cucumbers so that the fruits do not overripe and fall off.

Several times a season it is worth carrying out preventive treatment against infections and destroying harmful insects. Beetle larvae can be collected by hand or using insectoids.

If you follow the rules of care, watering and form the plants in accordance with the schemes suitable for the variety, the cucumber will respond with gratitude and give a rich harvest.

How to shape cucumbers correctly?

It is important to correctly form cucumbers; for this you must follow some rules:

• You need to pick barren flowers in time;
• the instrument must be sharp and disinfected;
• It is better to carry out the shaping in the morning (the wounds can heal over the whole day);
• work carefully with the central upper branches; if damaged, the bush may completely die;
• the leaves of the bottom row are removed;
• You need to pick dry leaves, damaged branches and bad fruits from the bush;
• Stumps should not be left after cutting, as this increases the likelihood of fungal infections.

The formation procedure in a polycarbonate greenhouse is carried out regularly, with an interval of 7 days or even more often.

The formation procedure begins with tying the bush to a support. There are three ways to properly tie:

With the horizontal method, two wooden or metal pegs are installed in the ground on both sides of the bed (it is important that they are high). A rope is pulled between them. If vertical formation is assumed, then the rope between the stakes is pulled at the very top

From it, a piece of fabric is passed to each bush, along which the cucumber lashes will climb up. There is also a combined version of the garter. In this case, a net is installed near the bed, along which the lashes cling with their antennae.

Stepping is carried out by observing a number of sequential actions indicated in the instructions:

• the side lashes begin to be removed from the bottom of the stem up to the 5th leaf;
• at a height of 85 cm, two shoots should be left (their length is reduced to 20 cm) with two leaves;
• starting from a stem height of 125 cm, the length of the side branches should not exceed 40 cm (2 leaves and two ovaries are left on them);
• at a height of 155 cm, 4 leaves and the same number of ovaries are left on the shoots;
• then the top is pinched.

All these actions will allow you to form a neat, productive bush. As a result, free access of air and light to all parts of the plant will be ensured. The greens will be sweet, crisp and smooth.

Parthenocarpic varieties

Parthenocarpic (self-pollinating) hybrid varieties of cucumbers do not require pollination by insects, since only female inflorescences are formed. Most of the inflorescences are located on the main stem, so all efforts should be directed towards its formation.

Self-pollinating varieties of cucumbers quickly gain green mass. Pruning begins 3 weeks after planting in the greenhouse. By this time, 5-6 true leaves should appear, and the height of the bush will reach 35 cm.

The bush formation scheme is simple:

• In the axils of the first five leaves of the lower row, flowers and ovaries must be removed.
• Then you need to leave 6 shoots. They are shortened, leaving a length of 25 cm. One leaf is left on each branch and the shoots are removed.
• Pinching begins from the 9th shoot. Leave 2 leaves and two ovaries. The length of the shoots should be approximately 45 cm.
• As soon as the bush reaches the height of the installed support, the top is directed downwards and cut off.

Bee-pollinated varieties

Bee-pollinated cucumber varieties will not form ovaries without pollination. Cucumber varieties that are pollinated by bees should be formed a little differently. The difference between the varieties of this group of vegetables lies in the peculiarities of the formation of ovaries and fruits on the side branches. In most cases, male inflorescences and barren flowers appear on the main stem. Therefore, it is better to form 2 or three stems.

These varieties are more suitable for growing in open garden beds, but if properly formed, it is quite possible to grow them in a greenhouse.

Step-by-step instructions will allow you to carry out the procedure correctly:

• the central stem is not pinched until it reaches a high point;
• in the axils of the 5 lower leaves, remove the stepsons, ovaries and flowers;
• in the next two axils, only the buds of the lateral branches are removed;
• then the side branches of two levels are pinched, leaving a length of 20 cm;
• the next shoots are shortened so that their length remains 40 cm;
• closer to the top of the main stem, the length of the branches should be 52 cm;
• The top of the bush is directed down and pinched.

If you form cucumbers correctly, following all the recommendations, you will be able to grow a good harvest.

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Trimming procedure

We have already figured out whether it is possible to pick off foliage and when is the best time to do it. Let's move on to the technology of trimming vegetables in a greenhouse.

You can trim leaves effectively by using general pruning and lightening pruning. Generally recommended for self-pollinating varieties, of which the majority are. Lightening is relevant when dealing with weakened and diseased crops.

It is recommended to divide the scourge into 4 zones. First of all, remove the flower primordia and side shoots from leaves 2 to 4. In zone 2, where there are 3–4 nodes, 1 cucumber and 1–2 leaves are left on the side shoots, and the growing point is discarded. In zone 3, where the plant height is 1–1.5 meters, at 3–4 nodes, 2 fruits and 2 leaves are left untouched. In zone 4, the highest part of the stem, leave 3 cucumbers and 3 leaves.

As the central stem grows to the wire, it is wrapped around it several times, and after 4 leaves the growth point is removed. The whip is tied to the trellis using twine. The first shoot that grows from the axil of 1 leaf should be pruned. The three shoots that appear after this are distributed along the wire in a checkerboard pattern - 2 to the left and 1 to the right. This is how it is possible to achieve better illumination of culture. As they grow, it will be correct to pinch off the lashes every 0.5 m as they grow. The new shoot will be a continuation of the lash. All shoots need to be pinched when massive fruit ripening is observed. Their growth should be directed downward. This applies to general pruning.

Lightening pruning involves removing side shoots and wilted leaves that point downwards. This is done in any area of ​​their location. The excess ovary is also removed. As a result of the manipulations, 6 ovary nodes and a few leaves should remain. Your crops will receive enough light and air to grow properly. If a side shoot is visible near the ground from 1 node, it does not need to be torn off, but it would be correct to place it on the soil along the fence.

We tear off the leaves of the cucumbers. Timing and rules for carrying out the procedure in the greenhouse

Naturally, beginning gardeners face numerous problems. One of the frequently asked questions is when to pick leaves from cucumbers in a greenhouse and whether it is even possible to do this.

Why pluck leaves?

Leaves on cucumber vines are not only possible, but also necessary to be removed. The fact is that not all leaf blades and shoots participate in the formation of the harvest.

1. Abundant greenery inhibits the development of cucumbers, which negatively affects the formation of ovaries.
2. Plant leaves are an important part for photosynthesis, but the greenery itself draws on nutritional resources, thereby weakening the bush.
3. The abundant green mass creates shade in the greenhouse, the plants do not receive enough light, the process of photosynthesis decreases, and the cucumbers do not receive enough nutrition.

Excess vines and leaves form thickets; the cucumber has no strength left to form ovaries. This is why some of the greenery is usually removed.

What does the pruning procedure give to greenhouse cucumbers:

• by increasing the space between cucumbers, air circulation improves;
• sunlight hits every bush;
• the harvest increases;
• the lashes are formed correctly, due to this the number of female ovaries increases;
• the risk of plant diseases, including root rot, is reduced.

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Not all leaves in a row need to be pruned, but only those that:

• do not allow the cucumber to grow normally;
• infected with diseases.

Diseased leaf blades need to be given special attention. They are removed first so as not to infect the rest of the cucumbers.

If the disease cannot be dealt with, special drugs do not help, the cucumbers are uprooted and burned.

When to perform the procedure

Cucumber vines rot easily, especially in humid greenhouse conditions. Therefore, pruning work is usually done early in the morning. Choose a sunny day. Such conditions will help plants heal wounds faster. After trimming the leaves, the cut areas are sprinkled with wood ash.

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Begin pruning at an early stage of cucumber growth. The leaves need to be cut off with sharp scissors at the very base, leaving a stump of 2-3 cm.

There is no need to pick off the leaves of cucumbers with your hands, so as not to injure the plant.

How to do it

There are two types of pruning cucumbers:

The choice depends on the variety of cucumbers. General pruning is recommended for self-pollinating plants, and lightening is intended for weak and diseased specimens, as well as for varieties with large leaves.

Regardless of the method, you need to trim the leaf blades correctly so as not to lose the fruit harvest.

General pruning

In parthenocarpic varieties, the main crop is formed on the main stem. Before pruning, you need to mentally mark the following parts on the main shoot:

1. At the very beginning of the stem, the lower inflorescences and leaves lying on the ground are removed. Remove leaf blades with signs of yellowing and side shoots in the axils. This procedure ensures good air circulation.
2. At the second growth point, around 3-4 nodes, 1-2 leaves and 1-2 cucumbers are left.
3. The next pruning is carried out at a height of 50 cm. Excess leaf blades and side shoots are removed, but the leaves above and immediately below the cucumbers should remain to feed the growing vegetable.
4. When the plant reaches the top of the greenhouse, you need to pinch the top and cut off the top leaves. There should be at least 3 sheets left here.

Brightening

When the plantings are thickened along the entire length of the cucumber vine, the side shoots are removed. Up to the sixth node, the ovaries are removed, as well as the leaves pointing downwards. After this operation, the nutrients will go to the remaining part of the cucumber.

Expert advice

Pruning leaf blades helps increase yield, but not everyone can do it correctly. Therefore, you need to follow the advice of experts:

1. The lash cannot be cut off completely, so as not to injure the plant.
2. If a lot of barren flowers appear, it means that abundant watering is stopped so that the soil dries out. Male flowers are removed so that they do not draw food onto themselves.
3. You cannot delay removing leaves and wait until the vines become thin and intertwined.
4. Leaf blades are cut off after 10 days; no more than 2-3 leaves are removed from one plant at a time. At the same time, the yellowing leaf blades are also cut off.
5. If bee-pollinated varieties of cucumbers grow in a greenhouse, care must be taken to ensure insects have access to the flowers.
6. On hybrids, the upper part of the 9th knot is removed.
7. If the leaves on the plants are too wide, partially removing part of the cucumber leaf helps.

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Trimming leaves and side shoots on cucumber bushes is a simple procedure, but without the appropriate skills you can lose your harvest. Therefore, beginners need to try pruning on 1-2 plants to understand the principle - and only then show their class on the entire plot.

Important Rules

Based on the experience of gardeners, whether it is necessary to prune cucumbers, we can say that this procedure is simply necessary

It is important that the top is always in the light. Therefore, the stem must be directed all the time

Pruning cucumbers in a greenhouse must be carried out in compliance with all rules.

• It is necessary to cut not the entire branch, but only to the growth point, otherwise the entire branch will dry out.
• The procedure for getting rid of leaves from cucumbers in a greenhouse cannot be postponed until later, otherwise the vines will become intertwined and the stem will become thinner.
• Leaves need to be trimmed with special, sharp, sterile garden scissors early in the morning. During the day, the wound will heal and dry out. If the stepsons are broken and torn off manually, the plant will suffer for a long time and the yield will decrease.

• Is it possible to remove the lower leaves of cucumbers? Some vegetable growers advise removing the lower leaves to prevent excessive soil moisture. The risk of spreading fungal infection and root rot is reduced. But you can only pick off the lower leaves of a bush rich in greenery. If the bush has sparse leaves, it can harm the growth and development of the plant.
• It is recommended to pluck off excess mustache, which takes away a lot of nutrients. They cannot be directed horizontally along the trellis, otherwise a shadow will be created.
• Cotyledon leaves should not be removed. These leaves are formed in almost all plants at the very beginning of seedling growth. Cotyledons grow in 7-8 days. This is an elongated single leaf, without a pair. When the plant no longer needs it, the cotyledon leaf itself dries up and falls off.

What leaves should be removed from cucumber bushes? Pick off yellowed, dry leaves. You should not leave those leaves that are covered with spots or pests have settled on them. Such leaves do not allow light to pass through and promote rotting. When is the best time to pick? The procedure is carried out every 7-10 days in the morning.

From reviews of experienced vegetable growers: “Unpruned cucumber vines often begin to turn yellow and curl their leaves. The plant becomes weak, and the fruits begin to ripen later and do not taste as sweet and crunchy. In recent years, I have been making sure to cut off all the side branches with leaves, and I also get rid of diseased, yellow leaves. The harvest pleases with its taste and quantity.”

Do not remove large leaves if they are healthy and rich green in color. Leaves participate in the process of photosynthesis and nourish the entire plant. Large leaves can be a result of an excess of nitrogen or simply because this variety was chosen.

If there are a lot of barren flowers on the bush, there is no need to rush to tear them off. Perhaps by changing the conditions of care, the situation can be improved. Often the cause of the formation of barren flowers is excessive watering and excess nitrogen. Greenhouse soil may also need some microelements.