At what night temperature do cucumbers grow in open ground and in a greenhouse?

Everyone's favorite vegetable crop, cucumbers, is heat-loving. Perhaps maintaining the correct temperature is the first condition necessary to obtain a generous harvest.

It would seem that the summer is warm, and cucumbers should grow on their own, but not everything is so simple! A lot of nuances affect the germination of seeds, how they will germinate, the formation of seedlings, flowering and fruiting. Much depends on the lighting of the plants. Growing in a greenhouse, open ground or at home (window sill, balcony, loggia) are three different ways to produce a crop in completely different conditions.

Temperature restrictions when growing cucumbers

Cucumber grows and bears fruit at temperatures from +14°C to +42°C.
Therefore, the minimum growing temperature is +14°C. The plant begins to rot when the temperature drops to +8°C for two days, or if the temperature drops sharply to +5°C in the morning or at night. An indicator of this will be limp leaves two hours after sunrise. But at air temperatures above +35-40°C, the number of dried and dying branches and ovaries of small cucumbers will sharply increase. If the crop is grown in a greenhouse, then place containers with water, ventilate the room and, in extreme heat, use fans to combat overheating of the plants. Cucumbers also don’t like stagnant, damp air; in this case, the greenhouse room needs to be ventilated, otherwise the cucumber ovaries won’t take a long time to fill.

As you can see, it is very important at what temperature cucumbers grow; success in growing cucumbers and the quality, as well as the abundance of the resulting harvest, depend on this. The tips given in the article will help you properly plan the growing process and avoid the death of cucumbers.

What to do if the temperature is below normal

There are several ways to help save your cucumbers from prolonged frosts. The most common way is to build a warm or manure bed.

dung ridge

At low temperatures, it will provide the plant with warmth and the necessary nutrients for growth. Do it carefully, as the active burning phase can have a bad effect on young plants.

A bed of manure is prepared 14 days before sowing the seeds. To do this, place the manure in a high bed and water it. Polyethylene will speed up the combustion process.

Steam from the ridge means it has started working. After two days of active burning, you can begin planting seeds in holes with soil. Pay attention to the thickness of the soil. It should be at least 30 cm. If there is a threat of frost, use film or spunbond (covering material). Cucumber vines that grew on manure are less likely to get diseases.

Warm ridge

This is almost the same as manure, but the biofuel used here is:

• food waste;
• leaves;
• branches;
• grass;
• tops

Note! If the seedlings are placed on an inorganic cushion and covered with film on top, then they will not be afraid of frost. This is also suitable for rainy summers, since organic matter is very humid and produces heat for the growth of cucumbers.

Advantages of warm ridges:

• arcs and shelters are easy to fix;
• the process of warming up the soil goes faster, and seeds can be sown earlier;
• there is less weed;
• drainage in the form of large branches will eliminate stagnation of water, which has a good effect on the development of the root system;
• organic matter begins to rot and warm the soil, which makes cucumbers grow better at night.

Arcs and covering material

Inexpensive kits for summer residents with plastic arches and covering material will help save cucumber vines.

Attention ! Installing arcs under the holes will protect the cucumbers from May frosts. Dense covering material will also help seedlings when cold weather sets in.

It is recommended to purchase white spunbond to protect the cucumbers from the spring cold snap. It is better to choose a density of 23 g/m². This is enough to protect the cucumbers from the cold and will also help them withstand strong winds.

If frost has damaged the leaves of cucumbers, use the drug "Epin". It will help when:

• the cucumbers are frozen;
• the leaves have turned yellow;
• It rains every day and gets colder;
• attacked by aphids or other pests.

Even with a single treatment with Epin, the plant’s immunity will be restored. Fertilizers should not be used for two weeks. It is also worth purchasing a growth stimulator.

You can restore cucumber lashes using other good means:

• "Zircon";
• "Narcissa";
• "Amulets";
• "Silka."

Fertilizers

Long low temperatures in summer have an adverse effect on cucumbers. The leaves at the tips begin to lighten, the ovaries form more slowly. In this case, they are fed with a solution of urea or urea.

Prepare this solution immediately before use. 1 tbsp. l. The drug is added to 10 liters of settled water. Dry and cloudy weather is suitable for processing cucumbers.

Reference ! You will need to save cucumbers using this method several times with an interval of 3 days until the leaves acquire a dark green color.

Traditional methods

If cold weather comes unexpectedly, but there is no covering material at hand and there is no time to make a shelter, folk methods will come to the rescue. Grass or branches can be torn and placed on top of the young cucumbers, and tied to the trellis, lowered a little lower. A layer of mulch will protect against freezing. In the morning, you can rake it out a little, but you shouldn’t remove it, as it will be needed so that moisture remains in the soil and it does not freeze.

Another option is to make shelters from roofing felt. They are removed in the morning, but at night they are good protection against frost.

Boric acid is also used as a rescue from low temperatures. A five-gram bag of powder is stirred in hot water and poured into 10 liters of water. When the sun sets, the cucumbers are sprayed with this liquid.

This treatment will not only save cucumbers from freezing, but will also make them more resistant to diseases: bacteriosis, powdery mildew, and root rot.

Installing a sensor in a greenhouse to regulate temperature

With such a sensor, it is easier to monitor the climatic conditions inside the greenhouse and determine whether the regime of a given crop is being followed correctly. The temperature inside should range from 16C to 25C during the day, and at night drop to 12C-19C.

But the soil temperature must be maintained within 14-25C. With a sharp decrease or increase, phosphorus starvation may occur, insufficient water supply to the root system, and as a result, wilting, an increase in the number of leaves and the absence of ovaries.

If you really want to start growing a crop like cucumbers in a greenhouse, then you need to create all the conditions. And installing a sensor will help control the process and make it possible to regulate climatic conditions to the required value.

Of course, the adjustment sensor will cost a considerable investment and the need to install it will be up to the gardener to decide. The main advantage of the sensor is the automatic adjustment of the set temperature value.

Greenhouse preparation

Preparation begins immediately after harvest. If you are installing a new greenhouse, the soil must be prepared in the fall.

The land is enriched with rotted manure and peat in equal proportions. The percentage of soil acidity is monitored and is no more than pH 7.1.

You should choose the right dimensions of the greenhouse. You should not install views that are too long. It will be difficult to achieve good ventilation in them. Also, in cold weather it will be more difficult to increase the temperature in the cucumber greenhouse.

Sowing seeds in a greenhouse

Planting cucumbers in a greenhouse is carried out 3-5 days after adding organic matter, or warming the soil to at least 18°C ​​when filling it with mineral fertilizers. The air temperature in the greenhouse should be at least 18°C, but better 22-25°C during the day and 18°C ​​at night.

Direct sowing into the ground

It is better to grow cucumbers from seeds in any conditions. Seedlings bloom and begin to bear fruit earlier, but as a result, their yield is 2 times lower than that of plants grown by direct sowing in the ground.

1. Cucumbers are planted in manure beds using the strip method. A furrow is made over the trench in which manure or compost is embedded and seeds are sown in 2-3 pieces. after 25-30 cm. (After germination, the strongest plant is left, and the rest are carefully cut off with scissors.) The furrow is covered with 2 cm of earth, watered with warm, settled water. If it is cold outside, then the crops can be covered with film. But keep in mind that manure and compost generate a large amount of heat. If the temperature is above 36°C, the cucumbers will not sprout. Cucumbers are planted in a manure bed in the first ten days of April, and in a compost bed by the end of the month.
2. In beds filled with mineral fertilizers, planting is carried out using the nesting method. The distance between nests is 35-40 cm, between seeds in one nest - 3-4 cm. The crops are covered with earth and must be covered with film, since the crops may be cold in such a bed. Planting in beds without heating is carried out in early to mid-May.

Growing through seedlings

For ultra-early planting, cucumbers are grown through seedlings. This method has more disadvantages than advantages:

• seedlings are difficult to take root, there are a lot of attacks;
• plant growth is noticeably slower than that of specimens grown during soil sowing;
• plants grown by direct sowing of seeds into the ground quickly overtake seedlings planted in a greenhouse at the same time;
• Although seedling plants bloom earlier, their yield is significantly lower in the end.

Seedlings are planted in a greenhouse at the age of 15-20 days by transshipment or by burying peat pots in the soil. If the seedlings are very elongated, then the stem is laid around the circumference of the pot and covered with 2 cm of soil. Cucumbers produce adventitious roots very well and the plant will not be weak and frail.

Seedlings are planted in a row, the distance between plants is 25-30 cm. When planting, cucumbers are buried 1-2 cm into the soil - this stimulates the formation of adventitious roots. The planted plants are watered abundantly with warm, settled water. You can’t water with cold water; the seedlings may die. At night, the culture is additionally covered with film or lutarsil. If the weather is cold, then the covering material is not removed during the day.

The main thing when growing cucumbers through seedlings is that they take root. Therefore, immediately after planting, cucumbers are sprayed with a root formation stimulator: Kornevin or Heteroauxin. After 3-5 days, root fertilizing is done with the same preparation.

Soil preparation (in the greenhouse and in open beds)

Let's try to figure out how to prepare the soil for planting cucumbers. If you look at it in detail, there is nothing complicated about it. The whole process is divided into several stages: loosening, fertilizing, planting. Moreover, it will be similar both in greenhouse conditions and in the case of planting in open beds. Let's analyze each stage in more detail, taking into account the specifics of planting (greenhouse or open ground).

Preparing the soil for cucumbers in the spring is very important. How abundant the harvest will be will largely depend on it. The first thing you need to do is to choose the right area for planting. After making sure that the place is free from imperfections (uneven soil, high clay content, looseness, sand), you can begin to sow the seeds.

It is important to remember that cucumbers do not like shaded areas or areas blown by the wind.

The soil for cucumber seedlings must be well dug up. Make sure that the soil does not contain any foreign impurities that could harm the seedlings. Before sowing, it is necessary to fertilize the soil and measure the temperature of the soil.

The best soil for cucumbers is loam and sandy loam.

Fertilizers can be divided into three groups:

1. Organic. The most necessary complex for growing cucumbers. As a rule, seedlings need organic nutrition most of all, and if the soil is not properly saturated, the growth process may slow down. When it comes to organic fertilizers, we usually think of fresh manure. It helps to properly loosen the beds in places where there is excess clay. Apply in the fall, depending on the composition and condition of the soil - approximately 5-10 kg/sq. m.
2. Mineral. It is much easier to grow cucumber seedlings if they are fertilized with a mineral complex (as well as with ash, which perfectly replaces the potassium composition). Such fertilizers are used in the spring, for example, before transplanting cucumber seedlings into the ground.
3. Liming the soil. Suitable for growing cucumbers if the soil has a high acidity index. The earth tends to lose its nutritional qualities, and to prevent this process, liming is carried out every 4-5 years. Spring planting will be much more productive if this procedure is carried out in the fall.

It must be remembered that the soil for cucumbers must be loose.

If the soil is properly prepared, it is necessary to ensure that the planted cucumbers grow without weeds, which must be removed as soon as the sprouts hatch.

Varieties

There are two types of crops:

1. ordinary varieties. The characteristics are stored in the seeds, respectively, by collecting them and cultivating them, the gardener will receive the same plant;
2. hybrid varieties. Seeds have to be purchased every time, since the second generation, as a result of splitting, acquires an unpredictable combination of characteristics of the original varieties. The name of the hybrid contains the combination “F1”.

Varieties and hybrids that do not require pollination are planted in greenhouses:

• self-pollinating: pollen is transferred from the stamens to the pistil of the same flower;
• parthenocarpic: can produce an ovary without pollination at all.

The following varieties and hybrids deserve attention:

1. Adam F1. A hybrid from the Netherlands with a number of advantages. The main thing is the early formation of fruits: harvesting begins after 1.5 months. after emergence. The variety is characterized by a long fruiting period, high yield and excellent taste of the fruit;
2. Cheetah F1. Disease-resistant parthenocarpic hybrid. Good yield, tasty fruits;
3. Zyatek F1. Another parthenocarpic hybrid, attractive for its early ripeness: harvesting begins on the 40th day after emergence. The ovaries form a bouquet, cucumbers reach a length of no more than 14-16 cm;
4. Emerald F1. Parthenocarpic hybrid, characterized by increased productivity. Because of this, bushes are planted no more than 3 times. per sq. m.;
5. Ecole F1. A parthenocarpic hybrid bred for lovers of pickles—canned cucumbers 3–6 cm long. Harvesting begins 35–38 days after emergence.

This is only a small fraction of varieties and hybrids suitable for growing in a greenhouse. Also highly valued by gardeners are “Mazai F1”, “Romans F1”, etc.

Diseases and pests

It is reckless to assume that closed soil protects cucumber plantings from pests and various diseases. This means you need to know what dangers threaten the harvest and how to deal with them. The following diseases are common:

• White rot. A fungal disease characterized by the presence of a light, almost white, coating not only on the fruit, but also over the entire surface of the bush. It spreads quickly, destroying plants. The fungus persists in the soil. Control measures involve destroying affected plants and changing the soil.
• Gray rot. Identified by slippery gray spots on the surface of fruits, flowers and ovaries. At the first stage of infection, spraying with a solution of copper sulfate 1 tsp is carried out. and 1 tbsp. ash per 5 liters of water. The drug "Barrier" is effective. When the disease is in an advanced state, only radical methods can help.
• Root rot. Drying leaves, changing the color of the plant, and the appearance of cracks on the stems are all signs of infection. Rot can be caused by planting seedlings too deeply, excessive watering, or cold water when moistening. Sprinkle the areas affected by the fungus with crushed chalk or wood ash and dry. Do not allow moisture to enter the plant when watering. Dead plants are destroyed by fire, and soil is removed from the holes by spilling a solution of manganese or copper sulfate. Afterwards, the hole is filled with new soil.
• Powdery mildew. It is characterized by the appearance of a white coating, first on the leaves of cucumbers, and then on the stems. The fungus actively spreads in warm and humid conditions, so if it is detected, treat the cucumbers as soon as possible. The preparations “Topaz” and “Zaslon” have an effect against powdery mildew. Their use when preparing the solution must be in accordance with the instructions.
• Downy mildew. It is determined by the appearance of spots on the leaves of cucumbers that resemble burns. In a couple of days the sheet dries completely. To stop the spread of the disease and destroy it, spray with Quadris (5 g per 10 liters of water). You should stop watering and ventilate the greenhouse more often, avoiding excessive air humidity.
• Brown spot. When infected, fruits develop wine-brown spots oozing from the inside. Then the rot spreads to the entire plant. Spots of the same color are seen on leaves and stems. Within a week the plants die. Control measures come down to the destruction of diseased plants and reducing the level of soil and air moisture in the greenhouse.
• Black mold. Manifestations of the fungus are noted in the appearance of spots on the leaves, which over time merge into one and become covered with black spider mold. Preventive measures include the use of treated seeds and disinfection of the soil and premises.

In addition to diseases, insect pests can attack the greenhouse crop. Some of the most common are:

• Melon aphid. The negative impact of aphids is manifested in twisting and wrinkling of leaves on the vines. If you turn them over, you will notice a cluster of small insects on the underside of the leaf blade. They feed on plant sap, which leads to a lack of nutrients, stunting of development and drying out of the crop. In small areas, it is recommended to use traditional methods of control against aphids. This can be an infusion of onion peels or an ash solution with laundry soap. Large greenhouse farms use chemicals.
• Greenhouse spider mite. It is difficult to detect due to its small size, but cobwebs on the plant are a sign of the presence of a mite.
  The appearance of insects is associated with the presence of weeds in the greenhouse and conditions suitable for the parasite. It is recommended to fight it only using chemicals, so as not to waste valuable time. The following drugs can be used: “Plant-pin”, “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm”, etc. They must be processed strictly in accordance with the instructions for the drug.

Determining the temperature regime for cucumbers in the greenhouse

As everyone knows, many factors influence the growth, flowering, condition of the plant and the amount of harvest.

The main ones are

:

• Air temperature and humidity;
• Ground temperature;
• Timely watering;
• Feeding;
• Loosening the soil.

Compliance with all optimal standards and proper care contributes to the good development of the plant. To maintain the temperature required for cucumbers, you should purchase a sensor. A good system for determining and adjusting the temperature in a greenhouse is a good helper

Especially when growing cucumbers and other crops is very important for summer residents and gardeners. Such a system is expensive and not always necessary

To raise the temperature to the desired temperature for cucumbers, you should follow some steps. The first method is to temporarily cover the plants with film. It retains heat inside and prevents temperatures from spreading throughout the greenhouse. Such shelter is made in a specific place. Reinforcement, a wooden frame and something similar are installed. This method should only be used at the right time. When it is hot outside, the cover should be removed to prevent the plant from overheating.

Another way: mulch the soil in the greenhouse. The mulch should be dark and dense to attract heat. Raising the soil temperature helps increase the heat in the greenhouse. It is natural to normalize the temperature. But you should not leave cucumbers unattended for a long time, so as not to overdo it.

To begin with, it should be noted that building long greenhouses is not very wise. They will have poor ventilation. Of course, you can install sliding windows or hatches on the roof made of good film, polycarbonate and other translucent materials that are used in the construction of greenhouses.

If ventilation is not enough, you can water the greenhouse from the outside. It is also possible inside, but it should be done carefully. Paths and free corners are watered. The outside of the glass is painted with chalk diluted in water to slightly lower the temperature. The chalk is then easily washed off.

Small greenhouses built without a foundation can be raised and in this way provide good ventilation from below. Another effective method is to cover the roof of the greenhouse with light-colored sheets or something similar. To prevent the covering from flying away, slats are attached to the edges of the sheet. You can use clothespins, but in strong winds this method is not very effective. If there is nothing suitable for covering the greenhouse, then there are now shading nets on sale. There are two similar actions to lower the temperature. The first one is to hang frozen water bottles. Second, buy "dry ice" (carbon dioxide) and put it in.

Mixed plantings

The greenhouse can be used quite rationally by using mixed plantings.

It is worth considering that this is quite difficult. The humidity and temperature in the greenhouse should be different for cucumbers and tomatoes. Tomatoes cannot tolerate the moisture that cucumbers need well, and vice versa.

Ideally, you need to have two greenhouses:

• damp and stuffy for cucumber plantings;
• hot and well ventilated for tomatoes.

Despite the difficulties, many gardeners practice mixed plantings, trying different ways to achieve a good harvest. Having gained some experience, you can achieve good results.

Methods for adjusting temperature in a greenhouse

If you have no intention of spending money on a sensor, you need to know a few simple methods for regulating the temperature.

There are several options to raise the temperature inside the greenhouse:

Create a temporary cover with additional film, while creating an air barrier, protecting the plants inside from the harmful effects of adverse external conditions. By doing this you can further maintain the temperature under the film for good plant development, regardless of weather conditions. If it is necessary to reduce heat loss and fix the temperature at a certain level, then it is necessary to create a secondary greenhouse inside the cucumbers. To do this, a frame, reinforcement, wire are installed and covered with film. Inside you will get warm air that will not cool down and last a long time due to the heat inside the greenhouse. But, most importantly, do not overdo it; it is better to choose perforated film and ventilate it in warm weather; on hot days, you should remove the cover and give the plants fresh air. You can use soil mulching to raise soil temperature

It is important to ensure that the mulch is black and dense, this should attract heat and sunlight. In such cases, spunbond or polyethylene film is used.

Raising the temperature will, of course, have a positive effect on the plants, but overheating cannot be allowed to happen. It is recommended to monitor the temperature in the greenhouse every hour and if it rises rapidly, it is necessary to take measures to reduce it.

To reduce the temperature, follow these tips:

• One of the conditions for stabilizing the temperature regime is not to build large and long greenhouses.
• Ensure that air flows through the gables. This method can help reduce the temperature to 10C at any time if necessary.

Increasing thermal conditions

If, due to weather or other conditions, the temperature in the greenhouse has dropped and the created environment threatens the health of the cucumber bushes, to quickly increase the thermal temperature, use one of the techniques recommended by experienced summer residents.

1. Create an air layer that can protect cucumber plants from the harmful effects of the environment. This can be done by covering the planting with film for a short time.
2. You can reduce heat loss and stabilize the microclimate in a greenhouse by creating a so-called second greenhouse, which is built directly on the vegetable planting in the form of a wire frame or made of wooden structures and other handy materials. In this case, a perforated film is used as a covering material, ensuring proper air exchange and creating ventilation for ventilation.
3. You can increase the thermal temperature by mulching the soil. This is done using both organic matter and dark-colored film.

At what temperature are cucumbers planted in a greenhouse?

It is necessary to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse after you have carried out all the necessary preparatory measures for equipping the greenhouse, the soil in it, and processing the planting material itself.

The recommended soil temperature for planting cucumbers is indicated on the back of the seed package

Try to plant the plant when a similar temperature indicator has lasted in your greenhouse for at least 5 days. And on the condition that he will not “jump” in the near future. Cucumber is a very capricious crop, and in case of incorrect temperature conditions it reacts with special symptoms.

Signs of incorrect temperature conditions in the greenhouse:

• Stems and leaves lose their elasticity;
• The plant begins to wither;
• The leaves turn yellow;
• White spots appear on the leaves;
• Flowering stops;
• Cucumber flowers are drying;
• The set fruits dry out.

If you see at least one of the above signs on the plants in your greenhouse, immediately check the temperature conditions. You have very little time to get the plant back to normal.

heating the soil in a greenhouse. options + and - methods

Reviews:

Alexander Volotovsky

writes: These storytellers according to SV who just published them. According to such a book, nothing works as described there. SV according to Ivanko’s book is simply a terrible version of a greenhouse.

Hamid anbazov

writes: Hello, we are from sunny Kyrgyzstan, we really like your advice, but we want to know if it is possible to build a greenhouse not from solar vegetarium, but from film and on what scale????

Alexander Volotovsky

writes: These storytellers according to SV who just published them. According to such a book, nothing works as described there. SV according to Ivanko’s book is simply a terrible version of a greenhouse.

Hamid anbazov

writes: Hello, we are from sunny Kyrgyzstan, we really like your advice, but we want to know if it is possible to build a greenhouse not from solar vegetarium, but from film and on what scale????

Harvesting

Greens should be set only after the 5th leaf when planting early and after the 3rd when planting in the summer. They are collected every 2-3 days; if the weather is warm, then the borage is looked through every day.

The first greens are harvested when they are the size of a finger. They are the most difficult for the plant, since at this time it is not yet fully formed. If you keep them to normal, the cucumber will give all its strength to the firstborn and in the future the harvest will be low.

The rest of the greens are collected when they reach marketable condition, carefully, without twisting the vines. Collect all fruits: marketable, ugly and overripe

Freed from the load, the crop will set greens again and again.

It is undesirable to allow green plants to outgrow. Overgrown cucumbers take away all their nutrition and inhibit the development of new ovaries.

How to prepare a greenhouse before planting cucumbers

As you know, greenhouses can be of 3 types:

• Polycarbonate greenhouses are the most popular and reliable (they are most suitable for growing cucumbers);
• Film - also common, but retain heat less well and are not resistant to adverse weather conditions;
• Glass - this design is used the least often, it is difficult and financially expensive to build, and it heats up too quickly in the heat and cools down quickly when it gets cold.

And no matter what kind of construction you have (polycarbonate, film or glass), a few weeks before planting cucumbers you should prepare the greenhouse to remove all dust and dirt. In this case, it is necessary to remove all the ropes that were previously used for garters and replace them with new ones.

First, you should remove all plant debris (if you did not do this in the fall). And then thoroughly wash all the walls inside and out . First, you can brush away heavy dirt and cobwebs with a broom. You can wash the outside of the greenhouse with water from a hose or simply use a mop.

It is advisable to wash the inside of the walls and ceiling with a detergent; a soap solution works well (dilute 1 bar of laundry soap in a bucket of warm water). And using a sponge, thoroughly wash the surfaces in the greenhouse (apply detergent and leave for 10 minutes). And then be sure to rinse everything with clean water to remove soap residue.

Important! It is also advisable to disinfect the surface of the greenhouse and the soil, but this must be done in advance in the fall. This material talks about this.

How to grow cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse: planting and care

When determining the timing of planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, many factors have to be taken into account. The determining factor is the climate in the region where the site is located. But the covering material of the greenhouse is also important. If it is covered with polycarbonate or two layers of film, cucumbers can be sown directly in greenhouse beds without growing seedlings indoors.

In the middle zone, this can be done on April 15–25, having previously warmed the soil to 14–16°C. You can warm the soil by watering the bed with hot water before sowing.

At the same time, you can plant cucumber seedlings grown indoors, which were sown at the end of March. The timing of sowing and planting plants is determined in each case individually, based on specific day and night temperatures and the possibility of additional heating of the greenhouse in case of sudden cold snaps.

Cucumber seedlings are planted in single-layer film greenhouses or cucumber seeds are sown 1–2 weeks later, in early May. Additional shelters are installed above the greenhouse beds to protect against return frosts and prolonged cold spells.

Installing additional shelter over greenhouse beds makes it possible to plant cucumbers in the greenhouse earlier

Placing plants in beds

The health and productivity of plants in a greenhouse directly depends on the degree of planting density. The denser the plants are planted, the greater the likelihood of fungal diseases and root rot.

In a greenhouse bed, the width of which is usually 60–70 cm, cucumbers are placed in one row at a distance of at least 40–50 cm from each other. Reducing the distance leads to crop loss, disease and plant death.

Preparing the greenhouse for planting

Preparing a country greenhouse for planting cucumbers will not be difficult if you follow a few recommendations:

1. You should not plant seedlings in the same place twice, this can lead to a decrease in yield. Experienced gardeners consider such planting to be fundamentally incorrect. Therefore, every year it is necessary to change the planting location to avoid plant diseases.
2. Every time, after harvesting the last crop, you should treat the soil, frame and walls of the greenhouse with a special solution. The most common lime chloride will do; it perfectly cleans the surface of harmful bacteria.
3. The cracks of the greenhouse must be thoroughly coated with the sediment remaining after treatment (from the same lime).
4. After treatment, the soil must be dug up and a layer of powdered lime applied on top.
5. In the spring , when you are going to plant cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse, you need to remove the top layer of soil and dig it all up properly.
6. If you have a rack greenhouse, then before planting it is best to remove all the soil that has already been used previously.
7. Apply a thin layer of cow dung to the prepared soil, and then, when the soil has rested, this layer can be increased from 10 to 25 cm.

Best soil temperature for cucumbers in a greenhouse

Every plant loves when the soil is rich in substances that are beneficial to them. This is especially true for water. Watering is best done in the evening. But if the temperature in the greenhouse depends on the external environment, then in the hot summer it would not be a bad idea to water the cucumbers early in the morning. Afterwards, ventilate to prevent excess air humidity. For every plant, humidity plays a big role. For cucumbers, the norm that experienced gardeners and summer residents try to observe should ideally be at least 70%, both in a greenhouse and in a greenhouse.

At +12°C and below, seeds and roots cannot develop after planting. If the soil temperature exceeds +35+40°C, then the roots are depressed and the leaves begin to fade. To prevent overcooling of the soil and (or) damage to the roots of cucumbers, you should water the plants with warm water. It is desirable that the water temperature be similar to the soil temperature. The soil itself needs to be watered. If water gets on the leaves, it can cause burns to the plant. But it’s also not possible to pour “under the root.” This can damage the upper shoots of the roots, which leads to diseases and deterioration of the harvest. Good watering is the key to a high-quality and large harvest. Insufficient liquid can lead to bitterness in the fruit. Before each watering, it is recommended to check the condition of the soil; if it is damp, then watering should be postponed.

Limits

When growing vegetables, it is enough to ensure that the thermal indices of the air and soil do not fall below or rise above the maximum permissible levels.

Growing seedlings

Daytime temperature

Initially, cucumber seedlings are able to grow well at daily temperatures of 25°C-28°C, but with the appearance of the first leaves, this thermal regime begins to have a detrimental effect on the plantings and requires a reduction to a level of 20°C-22°C.

With a sharp change in temperature, the bushes may die

With a rapid drop in degrees in the greenhouse, cucumbers cease to absorb the mineral elements they need, and with a sharp increase in temperature, the cucumber bushes begin to burn and, as a result, die.

Evening temperature

In the evening, cucumber bushes feel comfortable in the first week after planting with average temperatures not lower than 17°C. This temperature indicator prevents excessive stem density and slows down unnecessary elongation of cucumber seedlings. However, after a week, such a degree begins to slow them down, and the plant needs to increase the heat level in the evening hours to the required 21°C-22°C.

Growing in a greenhouse

When growing vegetables, the temperature in the greenhouse for cucumbers should not exceed the following limits:

• at 17°C-19°C and with an increase to 35°C-40°C, ovaries do not form on cucumber bushes,
• at 15°C and below, the growth and development of the cucumber plant begins to slow down and stop,
• when the thermometer scale drops to 10°C, the growth of cucumbers stops completely,
• when the heat drops to a minimum of 8°C-9°C, the cucumber plant dies.

Sometimes, even when the temperature in a greenhouse for cucumbers differs from the required one by only 3°C, this results in the inability of cucumber seedlings to take root in the greenhouse. In the absence of automatic systems in the greenhouse that maintain proper thermal conditions, simple and effective measures to change the microclimate are used.

Danger of high and low temperatures

In the summer, in greenhouses, the thermometer in the middle of the day can reach +50...+60°C. At this temperature, the cucumber stems will simply “cook”; moreover, already at a heat of +35°C, the plants freeze in growth, their pollen becomes sterile, the ovaries turn yellow and fall off. That is why when building a greenhouse for cucumbers it is necessary to carefully consider the ventilation system.

Low temperatures (below +10°C) are dangerous for residents of the tropics and can cause: flowers to fall from the ovaries, growth stunting, the development of fungal diseases and even the death of the plant. The vegetable grower needs to remember that even a temperature of +15°C is too cold for normal growth and development of cucumbers.

Did you know?
The tonic properties of cucumber are used in cosmetology to make lotions and creams.
A mask made from slices of this fresh vegetable is also very useful for the skin of the face and neck. Thermal conditions are important for the successful cultivation of cucumbers. Therefore, gardeners need to provide plants with the temperature they need at a given stage of growth (during seed germination, growing seedlings, flowering or fruiting)

Each crop grown in fields, beds or in a greenhouse has an optimal growth temperature. Cucumbers are one of the most common vegetables grown in greenhouses or greenhouses.

Temperature regimes, which are important for growth, flowering and yield, differ between seedlings and mature plants. It all starts with seedlings. Seeds are planted in closed containers.

After germination, the containers are opened. Plants are installed in a well-lit place. The normal air temperature is +20+25°C. To avoid unwanted stem growth, the temperature should be kept within normal limits. Sharp drops or increases in temperature are undesirable for both seedlings and adult plants. Maintaining an optimal environment promotes good growth, adequate nutrition and protection from disease.

After 20-25 days of seedling growth, cucumbers are planted in a greenhouse

It is important that the greenhouse already has an optimal air temperature of +23+30°C. Lowering the degrees can cause plant diseases or they will be less able to receive nutrition from the soil

As a result, the plants will begin to be oppressed and die. When the temperature rises, in addition to the consequences already mentioned, cucumbers can also “burn.” Cucumber plants need maximum care.

Optimal microclimate

A properly created microclimate for cucumbers in a greenhouse is the key to a future harvest. The temperature regime creates a comfort zone for the vegetable crop along with the humidity of the air and soil and the acidity of the soil layer, maintaining these factors in an optimal ratio. When choosing the optimal temperature, take into account the differences in readings on the thermometer during the day and evening.

A sharp change in temperature conditions has an adverse effect on the condition of vegetable crops, including cucumbers and tomatoes, so it is necessary to change heat indicators gradually during the day and evening.

Advice from gardeners

Experienced gardeners advise sticking to average temperature conditions of 20°C-22°C, at which cucumbers grow properly. It is this gradation, which allows creating an optimal microclimate in the greenhouse when planting seedlings in the ground and further growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, that is considered optimal. Those who are willing to spend some time adhering to strict rules and observing the thermal regime within established standards should be aware of a number of standards:

• planting cucumber seedlings in open soil in a greenhouse assumes 20°C-22°C during the day and 16°C-18°C at night,
• during the flowering period, the thermometer on the thermometer in the greenhouse should be within 25°C-28°C,
• At the fruiting stage, the optimal thermal regime is between 25°C-30°C during the day and 18°C-20°C at night.

With such air temperatures, when planting seedlings and growing vegetables in a winter or summer greenhouse, the ground must be warmed up. Heat in the soil is maintained at 15°C-17°C.

Where to start growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

Start of growing crops

Before growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, you must:

• Think over the design of the greenhouse and choose materials and equipment for it.
• Choose the right variety of cucumbers.
• Prepare the soil.

All these actions can be done with your own hands without much difficulty.

Which greenhouse is suitable for growing cucumbers and its equipment

Initially, before growing green vegetables in greenhouses, you need to clearly think through the design and its shape. It can be:

• Square.
• Rectangular.
• The height of the structure should be below average human height. Otherwise, the greenhouse will already be a greenhouse.

The roof of the structure can be:

• Single-pitch.
• Gable.
• Broken.

So:

• Very often, greenhouses used for growing cucumbers have openable roofs. That is, the roof itself is attached to special hinges.
• The frame of this design can be metal or wood.

• Basically, greenhouses are used in the warmer seasons and they do not require special heating, since they are covered with a simple plastic film.
• It is also worth considering that the foundation does not need to be reinforced. The rods are inserted into the ground to a certain depth.

• Similar actions are performed for a greenhouse with a wooden frame and film covering. With another type of design everything is different.
• The frame is made of metal pipes that are welded together or wooden planks that are quite large in size.
• The coating can be cellular polycarbonate or dense polyethylene film. This type of structure is more massive and heavier and for this reason it will be necessary to make a base for it.

Greenhouse on a pile foundation

• A greenhouse covered with polycarbonate can be used all year round. Only in this case is it worth initially considering the heating system of the structure in cold weather.
• As for lighting, small fluorescent lamps are chosen. This is due to the fact that the height of the greenhouse is small and direct exposure to light on the seedlings can have a detrimental effect on the growth and development of the crop (leaf burns will appear).

It is also worth considering the irrigation system in the greenhouse. At the moment it can be:

• Manual.
• Mechanical.
• Automatic.

So:

• In manual watering, all actions are performed independently, using buckets or other containers to collect water.
• Mechanical irrigation differs from the previous one in that it uses hoses that are connected to the main source of water supply and evenly laid out along the entire perimeter of the structure. You can simply move the hose by holding it with your hands.
• Automatic watering is the most common and economical type of irrigation. This is due to the fact that when connected, the system is programmed for a specific watering time and for the type of irrigation itself. Thus, a person does not spend any time on such a process.

Conclusion! We can say that before growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, it is necessary to provide it with lighting and irrigation systems. In the case of growing crops in winter, a heating system is thought out.

Types of greenhouses and their features

Various materials are used as the basis for constructing protected soil, so the cost of greenhouses, their heat-saving characteristics, and service life vary significantly. The frame of greenhouses can be wooden or metal, differ in height and ability to withstand the weight of the covering:

Modern, durable, fairly lightweight material allows you to set up greenhouses for early spring use. They retain heat well when heated. Such greenhouses are not warm enough for winter use.

This covering material is quite heavy, so the frame must be strong. Glass greenhouses, with proper design and heating, can be used all year round.

They build both high greenhouses and low temporary protective structures. Lightweight material allows the use of a simple frame made of wood, polyethylene, plastic pipes and thick wire. Such greenhouses are intended for spring use after the ground has thawed, growing seedlings for open ground and obtaining earlier products.

Problems of maintaining temperature in a greenhouse

Modern greenhouses are made of wood or metal profiles. The translucent coating is made of polyethylene film or cellular polycarbonate.

If tightness is ensured, then the cold penetrates inside with a certain delay. Therefore, the presence of any type of heating inside will help maintain a positive temperature.

It is more difficult to organize obtaining the optimal temperature in the summer, when an abundance of solar energy reaches the earth. Inside protected ground structures, the temperature rises quite quickly.

How to heat a greenhouse

In a summer greenhouse, heating is arranged in the simplest ways:

• install a potbelly stove in which combustion is maintained by burning rotten wood, wood chips or wet grass. Such fuel burns slowly and heat spreads around. The smoke produced by combustion spreads inside the space. It contains polyatomic gases, which cool more slowly than nitrogen and oxygen (ordinary air contains diatomic nitrogen (78.8%) and oxygen (21.1%)). Flue gas contains carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor (H2O). Their share is up to 80%;
• installation of a long-burning stove (“Bubafonya” is the name of special boilers that, after a single refueling, can maintain combustion for more than 24 hours). Regular firewood or coal is used. The limited air supply to the combustion zone does not allow flammable substances to burn quickly. The use of such heating systems is optimal for greenhouses. With a similar device they can be used in early spring and late autumn;
• installing an electric boiler in which the temperature will be maintained no more than +55...65 °C will allow the air inside the greenhouse to be heated to acceptable values. Along the way, you can lay heating pipes that will warm not only the air, but also the soil;
• installing a gas stove inside the greenhouse and supplying natural gas or using liquefied gas cylinders will make it possible to keep one or two burners burning. On average, the minimum heat output is 500 W. A typical two-burner stove can produce up to 2 kW of heat;
• when installing a container with a volume of 60...80 liters on a gas stove and heating it to 60...70 °C, the process of heat transfer from water during the cooling process will occur within several hours. To prolong heat transfer, cover with warm clothes (there are quite a lot of them in dachas and suburban areas). In this case, the tank with warm water can cool down for more than 8...9 hours, and the required temperature will be maintained in the greenhouse.

There are plenty of options for summer greenhouses. In winter protected ground structures, heating systems are initially created. They are adjusted to a specific heat transfer depending on environmental parameters.

Automatic microclimate maintenance systems quickly change the operating mode, creating optimal temperature values.

How to cool a greenhouse

On a sunny day, even in spring or autumn, when the air temperature in the shade is low, the space inside the greenhouse warms up by 10...15 °C than can be determined from the outside. On a cloudy day, the temperature is slightly lower (6...9 °C). There are concepts:

• direct solar radiation, the magnitude of which depends on the intensity of the source and the angle of incidence of the rays. At noon, even at the latitude of Moscow in June, the flow reaches up to 1 kW/m2. In winter, the source (sun) produces about 450 W/m2;
• diffuse solar radiation affects the heated surface evenly from all sides. Its value is approximately 30% of direct radiation.

The greenhouse is affected by direct and diffuse radiation, therefore, in the absence of clouds, the heating is higher; on a cloudy day, the heating of the air in the greenhouse is lower.

In some buildings, they do not count on the presence of wind; they install fans that turn on when the temperature inside rises above 30 ° C; automatic machines turn on and off the air supply systems in time.

You can lower the temperature by spraying moisture inside. As water droplets evaporate, they lower the air temperature. Thermal energy is spent on the transition of moisture from one state of aggregation to another. When evaporating 1 liter of water, it is necessary to consume at least 2200 kJ of heat.

To lower the temperature by 5 °C in a standard 3x6 m arched greenhouse, you need to spray 10 liters of water with a temperature of 20...25 °C.

Optimal conditions for the growth of cucumbers

For high-quality growing season of cucumbers, it is necessary to create and maintain a microclimate with certain conditions, as well as carry out agrotechnical work in a timely manner.

Watering

Cucumbers need regular watering of the beds, but make sure they do not become waterlogged. Warm the water for the procedure in the sun or take it from containers located inside the greenhouse. If you water with cold water, the crop will become infected with rot and spots.

If the temperature of the irrigation water is too low, a narrowing of the middle part is noticed on the fruits, and the cucumbers become deformed.

After watering, loosen the soil to prevent the formation of a crust on the surface. It will become an obstacle to the path of air to the root system and will serve to more quickly lower moisture into the lower soil layers. This procedure will also help cover the roots washed out as a result of moisture with soil. Mulching helps to retain moisture in the beds for a long time.

Sprinkling is very important for the crop. It consists of generously spraying the green part of the plant with water. Thus, the liquid flows slowly to the root system, allowing the cucumbers to better saturate themselves with moisture. In addition, the humidity inside the greenhouse increases, which has a beneficial effect on the plants.

Feeding

Be especially careful when fertilizing the soil in a greenhouse, since the formation of ovaries and the ripening of fruits directly depends on this. Keep in mind that an excess of mineral components in the soil is just as undesirable as their deficiency. Calculate the total volume of fertilizer applied per season, including limiting substances and mineral supplements. The number of procedures for adding nutrition to the soil for cucumbers should not exceed 5.

With a lack of nitrogen on the fruit, a narrowing of the tip and a change in its color to yellow are noticeable. If there is a deficiency of potassium in the soil, pear-shaped cucumbers are formed.

Cucumbers respond especially well to the addition of infusions of chicken manure, humus and mullein. To prepare food, mix 150-200 g of organic matter and 10 liters of water. Leave in a warm place to ferment for 2-3 days, stirring the mixture occasionally. Add 30 g of superphosphate. The distribution rate of the infusion is 1 liter per 1 sq. m of beds or for 4-5 plants.

During flowering, add 30 g of potassium salt to this infusion.

The amount of mineral nutrition per 10 liters of water (per 1 sq. m) in different phases of cucumber growth is slightly different:

• before fruiting: ammonium nitrate - 5-10 g;
• superphosphate - 20 g;
• potash fertilizers - 10 g.

Fertilizers can be applied by root and foliar methods. It is advisable to carry them out in the evening or in cloudy weather.

Light mode

A 10-hour daylight hours is sufficient for the growth and development of cucumbers. When the amount of light decreases, the growth rate decreases significantly. Therefore, in the absence of sunlight, due to weather conditions, it is impossible to do without the use of phytolamps or other sources of artificial lighting.

Temperature

Cucumbers are very dependent on the temperature in the greenhouse. So, in different phases of growth it is necessary to maintain different levels of heat:

• planting seedlings - 20-22 degrees;
• flowering - 25-28 degrees;
• fruiting - 25-30 degrees.

At temperatures from 17 to 19 degrees and from 35 to 40 degrees, the formation of ovaries does not occur.

Critical temperatures for cucumbers:

• growth cessation - 15 degrees;
• cessation of growth - 10 degrees;
• death - 7-8 degrees.

Humidity

Cucumbers are very demanding on the level of air humidity, so it should be maintained between 90 and 95%. When this indicator decreases, the ovaries stop forming and the cucumbers slow down their development.

Ventilation

The ventilation procedure is necessary to prevent the spread of diseases, especially rot, which develop in a humid, warm environment. In addition, this provides additional access to clean air into the greenhouse. Ventilation helps reduce the air temperature on hot days to the required level.

Bush formation

Shaping helps to avoid bush thickening and optimize its productive qualities. Cucumber plantings become not only beautiful, but also evenly illuminated by the sun, accessible for aeration, and convenient for various agricultural work. This procedure involves pinching the shoots and tying them with the further direction of the head lash.

It is important to remember that all manipulations to form a cucumber bush are carried out strictly before the onset of the flowering period. When the first flowers appear, any work related to moving the lashes is prohibited.

The need to form a bush is explained by the following arguments:

• If there is excessive branching, the root system cannot cope with saturating the entire plant. As a result, the fruits become deformed and their taste deteriorates.
• Dense vegetation does not allow air to penetrate through the greenery. This negatively affects fruiting and creates a favorable environment for pathogens of various diseases.
• Weeding, loosening, spraying and watering are more convenient when cucumber bushes are formed.

Pinching (pinching)

Pinching helps reduce leaf mass for a more active and longer fruiting period. Removing canes with male flowers that do not bear fruit stimulates the development of female fruiting inflorescences. The quantity of harvest and its quality increases.

To perform the procedure correctly, you need to be able to distinguish male and female flowers from each other:

• female inflorescences are formed in pairs, and barren flowers are formed in 6 pieces;
• the stem of the female flower is longer than that of the male;
• ovaries are present only on female inflorescences.

Pinching is not carried out only on specially bred hybrids that have a single-wattle development or do not produce an excessive amount of barren flowers.

For self-pollinating varieties, leave enough male flowers so that their number with female ones is approximately equal. For parthenocarpic varieties, the presence of male inflorescences is not required.

The pinching procedure after tying cucumbers goes like this:

1. When forming the 5th leaf, all shoots and tendrils located below it are removed.
2. When 7-8 leaves appear, a pair of shoots are left from the central stem.
3. After the 11th leaf, the tips of the shoots are pinched, provoking their peripheral development and ovaries. On each shoot, 3 leaves and 3 ovaries are left.
4. Parthenocarpic varieties are formed, leaving one stem. When it grows to 50 cm, the tendrils, flowers and branches are removed, and the lateral shoots are pinched down to 1 leaf.

Pinching forms the bush in the form of an inverted pyramid.

Tying up

Tying cucumbers is done to:

• the lashes did not interlock with each other using whiskers;
• the process of plant care and harvesting was simplified;
• the bush had enough sunlight for the entire plant part.

These measures make it possible to horizontally grow cucumbers and form a bush. Mechanical damage to vines and fruits and their rotting on the ground are prevented. You should start tying when the seedlings in the greenhouse grow to 30-40 cm. At this time, the vine is still flexible and does not break when its position changes.

To carry out garter work you will need:

• wooden or iron supports;
• strong, taut wire;
• trellis net for cucumbers;
• garters made of long strips of cotton or nylon fabric about 3 cm wide.

You should not use thin laces or wire to tie cucumbers, as they will pinch the stem as they grow. Disinfect all garter material by boiling or bleach before use.

You can purchase special plastic garters. Their clamping is adjustable with notches and can be used repeatedly.

Diseases and garden pests

When growing cucumber bushes in protected ground, it is necessary to take timely measures to prevent various diseases and the invasion of garden parasites. Here, a biological method of pest control is used.

It is necessary to use chemicals very rarely.

Among the main diseases of cucumber bushes cultivated in protected soil are:

• root rot
• root rot
• white rot
• gray rot
• powdery mildew
• peronosporosis
• olive spot
• fusarium
• anthracnose
• ascochyta blight
• bacterio
• mosaic

Potato, melon and greenhouse aphids and whiteflies are noted among vegetable pests. To destroy them, it is recommended to use the biological product Actofit.

For preventive purposes, treatments are carried out with such agents as Previkur, Ordan, Quadris, one percent Bordeaux mixture, Fundazol solution, and copper oxychloride.

8 Total Score

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

Only compliance with the technology of planting, care and disease prevention can achieve good results when growing cucumber bushes in protected ground.

pros

• You can provide yourself with a year-round harvest of your favorite vegetable
• You can get an environmentally friendly harvest for yourself and your loved ones

Minuses

To obtain a harvest, only regular care is required

Necessary equipment

To grow cucumbers indoors, two conditions are important: a suitable greenhouse and its equipment. When choosing a shelter, please note that polycarbonate greenhouses have more advantages than those based on film or frame. They are easy to transport, rearrange and assemble, wear-resistant, have minimal influence of weather conditions, and are more airtight.

The size of the shelter must be at least 10 square meters. m, and the height is about 2 m. It is not recommended to build a higher greenhouse, since maintaining the microclimate in it will be problematic due to the large layer of air. But a lower height when growing cucumbers is also unacceptable. This is due to the fact that cucumber vines, if placed vertically, will not have enough space; their length can exceed 3.5 m.

The choice of location for installing the greenhouse is of great importance. It should be a flat surface or a small hill so that groundwater does not flood it and cause mold to appear.

The greenhouse should be installed in a north-south direction to optimize the receipt of natural sunlight and heat.

Advantages and disadvantages of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

A long time ago in Rus', overseas vegetables were grown for the royal table: cucumbers, melons, watermelons. For this purpose, already in the 17th century, warm or steam beds and greenhouses were used. Peter I welcomed the emergence of new technologies in horticulture in Russia. With him, the first glassed-in greenhouses appeared in which southern fruits were grown. Glass greenhouses are expensive and not available to everyone. But the emergence of cheap polymer materials in the second half of the twentieth century contributed to the development of new methods of growing heat-loving crops under temporary shelters or in small unheated greenhouses.

Currently, almost every summer cottage has small greenhouses. They differ only in the materials for the frame and covering. Frames can be metal or wood. And the coating is film or polycarbonate. Such greenhouses make it possible to cultivate cucumbers and other vegetables in all regions of our country. Growing cucumbers indoors has its advantages and disadvantages.

pros

• Guaranteed harvest in any weather, especially in the central and northern regions. Frost protection.
• Earlier harvest.
• Extended fruiting period.
• Possibility of obtaining several harvests in one season in the southern regions.
• Minimal material costs, which pay off with abundant fruiting.

A polycarbonate greenhouse allows you to get the first harvest of cucumbers 2-3 weeks earlier than from the garden

Negative aspects of greenhouse cucumber cultivation

• The need to invest in the construction of a greenhouse.
• The rapid spread of fungal diseases in closed spaces, the need for preventive measures to prevent diseases.
• In case of disease outbreaks, it is mandatory to use expensive and unsafe drugs to disinfect greenhouses.

Cucumber diseases spread much faster in a greenhouse than in open ground.

In order for a greenhouse to justify the money invested in its construction, it must meet certain requirements:

• Ventilate to reduce excessive temperature and humidity, but without drafts.
• Have a height sufficient for vertical cultivation of cucumber vines.
• The greenhouse must provide for the possibility of regular watering of plants. It is best to equip a drip irrigation system.

A window for ventilation of the cucumber greenhouse is installed at the very ridge of the roof so that the plants do not get exposed to a draft.

Optimal temperature for planting cucumbers in open ground

Most often, cucumbers are planted in open ground by seeds. Grown in natural conditions, they undergo hardening already at the initial stage, but this does not eliminate the need to choose the right variety. The gardener must select it taking into account the climatic conditions of the growing area.

Advice! It is best to sow the seeds on a sunny day, when the soil in the garden bed is warmed to +15 degrees.

The soil is prepared at the time of sowing - manured, dug up, and has low acidity. A large amount of organic matter generates a lot of heat, which prevents the seeds from freezing. But this is not enough to preserve the crops, since cucumbers can withstand their own temperature conditions.

The night temperature for cucumbers in open ground should be at least +13 degrees; if it drops below, the cucumbers will not grow. To avoid troubles, a greenhouse is set up during the cold season - low supports are placed on which the film is stretched. You can stop doing this only with the establishment of stable warm weather.

The critical temperature level for cucumbers is +10 degrees or less. The plant will simply freeze and it will no longer be possible to save it.

Attention! If there are frequent frosts and sudden changes, there is no need to plant this crop in open ground! The same applies to tomatoes.

The ideal difference between night and day hours is 7-8 degrees. With daytime temperatures of 28 degrees, at night the required level will be 20-21 degrees. It is most convenient to maintain such values ​​in a greenhouse.

Growing cucumber seedlings

Cucumber seeds can be planted either dry or sprouted. I recommend using seed that is 2-3 years old. Freshly harvested seeds have reduced germination.

Preparing cucumber seeds

I begin the preparation of seed material with calibration. Pour 50-60 g of salt into a glass of water and stir

Next, I add the seeds, carefully sorting them out with a stick or spoon. Full-weight ones (sank to the bottom) are suitable for planting, lightweight ones (floated up) are not.

I thoroughly rinse the calibrated seeds from salt water. Next is the disinfection stage. I dilute a 1% solution of potassium permanganate and pour the seeds into it for 20-30 minutes. I wash it again and dry it. After such preparation, they can be planted as seedlings.

If you doubt germination, I recommend germinating cucumber seeds: soak already disinfected seeds for 10-15 hours in a growth stimulator. If you do not have a specialized preparation, use a solution of boric acid.

Then, without washing, place the seeds on a damp cloth - napkin, gauze, cloth. Leave in a warm place (at a temperature of at least 22-24 C). Make sure that the material does not dry out. Hatched seeds can be planted immediately.

Tips and recommendations from experienced gardeners

And finally, a few tips from experienced summer residents who know a lot about growing cucumbers:

1. Choose varieties that are least susceptible to disease.
2. After the first planting, the next seeds are planted after 4-5 weeks. This is necessary so that you can enjoy the harvest in late August or early autumn.
3. Always make sure that the soil of your cucumbers is slightly moist. This will protect them from the bitter taste.
4. To prevent insects from attacking your crops, cover the plants with translucent material until they begin to bloom and fruit.
5. Once the cucumbers are ripe, harvest them every few days. Make sure that the fruits do not turn yellow, as this takes away the strength for further fruiting.

Care during the growing season and fruiting

Cucumbers are planted in prepared and warmed soil. To do this, prepare holes, water them and wait for moisture to be absorbed. Carefully remove the plant from the cup, place it together with a lump of earth in the hole, deepening it to the cotyledon leaves, and sprinkle it with earth.

Planting cucumbers in warm beds in a greenhouse

After planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, it is necessary to provide them with conditions for the best growth and development. Cucumbers do not like strong changes in day and night temperatures: rot of various origins appears, growth is inhibited, ovaries fall off, and the fruits become bitter. Optimal conditions for cucumbers in a greenhouse are shown in Table 2.

Table 2. Microclimate in a winter greenhouse for cucumbers.

Watering cucumbers

The soil for cucumbers should ideally be moderately moist. This can be achieved using drip irrigation or regular watering at the root. Cucumbers are watered only with settled warm water at a temperature of 25-27°C until a ten-centimeter layer of soil is moistened. To reduce the amount of watering, the beds are mulched with sawdust, peat or straw.

Watering cucumbers from a watering can

To soften the water, you can add a minimum amount of organic fertilizer to it - 5-10 ml of mullein infusion or bird droppings per bucket of water. With this type of watering, root feeding with organic fertilizers will not be needed; the plants will receive nitrogen fertilizers with watering. Soft water is better absorbed by the roots.

The best varieties of cucumbers for polycarbonate greenhouses

The choice of varieties depends on what kind of cucumbers you plan to cultivate and what expectations you have for the future harvest. Now there are many such varieties of seeds on the market, but in order to choose the most suitable option, we recommend reading this article.

Fertilization and disease prevention

It is necessary to fertilize plants regularly - cucumbers build up a large vegetative mass and quickly consume useful elements from the soil. A lack of nitrogen affects the growth of bushes and the process of photosynthesis, a lack of phosphorus and potassium affects the shape and size of the fruit.

For feeding, use an infusion of mullein 1:5 or chicken manure 1:15. To enrich the infusion with potassium, calcium and microelements, add wood ash to the solution - a glass in a bucket. Stir the components in water and leave for two to three days.

Preparation of chicken manure solution

You can also use complex fertilizers for melons and melons to feed cucumbers. They are bred according to the instructions and watered at the root or sprayed on the leaves.

Note! When the fertilizing is infused, carbon dioxide is released from organic matter. It is beneficial for plants, so a bucket of infusion can be left in the greenhouse near the ridges.

Video - Feeding cucumbers

To prevent diseases, plants are sprayed with Fitosporin three times during the growing season with an interval of 15 days. It helps prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases. You can also use watering the soil with warm solutions of potassium permanganate and boric acid.

Spraying with Fitosporin - prevention

Forming and collecting fruits

To prevent plants from shading each other, they must be formed correctly. In greenhouses, cucumbers are grown vertically - this ensures ventilation, reduces the likelihood of diseases and makes access to the plants easier. In addition, with a vertical garter, more plants can be placed on one meter of area.

Rules for shaping cucumbers

After the plants are planted and the first flower stalks appear, the main stem is tied with twine to the supports or structures of the greenhouse. The first flower stalks are immediately torn off - they mainly consist of barren flowers, but at the same time they inhibit the growth of cucumbers. After the first side shoots appear, pinching begins according to patterns depending on the variety.

Cucumbers with a bouquet type of fruiting produce many fruits in each internode. The main harvest of such varieties and hybrids is obtained from the main stem. Their side shoots are pinched, allowing the plant to yield maximum yield.

Forming cucumbers of bouquet type of flowering

Cucumbers with a small number of ovaries in each internode are formed differently. On the fifth and sixth side shoots, one leaf and ovary are left, on the subsequent ones - two leaves and two ovaries. This way the yield will be maximized.

Forming parthenocarpic hybrids of cucumbers

Video - Forming and gartering cucumbers

After the start of fruiting, cucumbers are collected regularly, ideally daily. Even one large fruit left on the plant inhibits the setting of new cucumbers and the growth of the bush. Harvesting is carried out in the morning or evening. It is more convenient to do this after watering - this way the cucumbers prick less.

Picking cucumbers

Cucumbers from the winter greenhouse will delight you throughout the cold months. To extend the period of active fruiting, they can be planted in several stages, constantly renewing the plantings. With the right agricultural technology and selection of varieties, fresh vegetables will always be on your table.

Greenhouse requirements

Cucumbers are heat-loving and moisture-loving crops, so any drop in temperature or humidity will inevitably affect the yield and health of the plants. A winter greenhouse for cucumbers must be insulated and equipped with a heating system.

Winter greenhouse for cucumbers

Best results can be achieved if the following conditions are met:

• correct design and placement of the greenhouse;
• complex heating of soil and air;
• adjustable humidity;
• additional artificial lighting;
• fertile loose soil.

These conditions can be created in a greenhouse made of glass or polycarbonate. Film greenhouses are not suitable for winter use due to the low strength of the film: during heavy snowfalls, the film sags, snow lingers on it and can collapse the structure.

Polycarbonate greenhouse

Greenhouse prices

greenhouses

Greenhouse design

The main requirement for winter greenhouses is to protect plants from the cold and maximize the transmission of sunlight. The best characteristics are wall-mounted greenhouses with double frames and a sloping south wall. Glass or polycarbonate is used as a covering, the frame is made of a wooden block or a profile metal pipe. It is better to choose the height of the greenhouse so that the area-to-volume ratio of 2:1 is met - this is optimal for cucumbers.

Scheme of a wall greenhouse

The slope of the roof and south wall in such a greenhouse depends on the angle of the sun above the horizon in your region. It is optimal if the midday rays pass through the glass at right angles - the reflection coefficient in this case is minimal.

The angle of the sun above the horizon and the correct design of the greenhouse

For better heating, the beds in the greenhouse are also made inclined or in the form of stepped terraces. This will allow the sun's rays to illuminate each plant unhindered. It is recommended to paint the back blank wall white or cover it with foil - reflecting from it, the rays will illuminate the plants from behind.

Arrangement of ridges in the form of terraces

It is better to enter the winter greenhouse through a vestibule - this will protect the plants from cold air flows. A storage tank for water and heating equipment can be placed in the vestibule. The ventilation system, unlike summer greenhouses, cannot be done through windows - drafts are contraindicated for cucumbers. It is a supply and exhaust system and is made from plastic pipes.

Greenhouse with vestibule

Heating

Cucumbers do not tolerate too dry air, so it is not recommended to install heating devices in the greenhouse that dry the air: convectors, oil heaters, and metal stoves. It is better to install a water heating system: heat the soil using pipes laid in the beds, and heat the air using radiators or registers stretched along the perimeter of the greenhouse.

Water heating system in a greenhouse

A furnace or boiler is used to heat the coolant. The second option is preferable: the boiler burns longer, and the level of automation is higher. A boiler for heating a greenhouse can be gas, electric or solid fuel. The boiler power for a greenhouse with a height of 2-2.5 meters is selected at the rate of 1 kW per 8-10 m2 of area. So, for a greenhouse with an area of ​​30-35 m2, a 4 kW boiler is sufficient.

Heating boiler in a greenhouse

You can also connect the greenhouse to your home heating system if it is located in close proximity to your home. In this case, the boiler must have a power reserve sufficient to heat the greenhouse. There are other ways to heat a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter.

Greenhouse lighting

Winter days are short and sun activity is low, so cucumbers require additional lighting in winter. This can be done using lamps of different types, and two parameters must be observed - the level of illumination and color temperature.

Plants need light that is as close as possible to daylight, that is, having a color temperature of 5000 °K. Fluorescent, mercury vapor (MGL) and metal halide (DNaT and DNaZ) lamps have this light. At the same time, in the growth phase it is better to use lamps with a cooler color - 6500 °K, and in the flowering and fruiting phase - with a warmer one, i.e. about 4000 °K. At the same time, the plants do not stretch, remain strong and form ovaries well.

Color temperature of different types of lamps

In terms of light output, fluorescent lamps are much inferior - much more of them will be needed for the same area. At the same time, their price is lower, and they practically do not heat up. A comparison of the light output of different types of lamps is shown in the figure. The specified number of different lamps will allow you to obtain a luminous flux of 50,000 lumens, which corresponds to lighting 4-5 m2 of a greenhouse for cucumbers.

Luminous flux of different types of lamps

The number of lamps required to fully illuminate winter greenhouses of different sizes is indicated in Table 1.

Table 1. Calculation of lighting for a winter greenhouse for cucumbers.

To illuminate plants, you can also use LED lights designed specifically for growing plants. Such lamps have a red-blue spectrum, which allows them to accelerate growth and improve fruiting.

LED phyto-lamps in the greenhouse

Note! Long-term exposure to the red-blue spectrum can have detrimental effects on vision. It is better to work in a greenhouse in natural light.

Prices for phytolamps

phytolamp for plants

Soil preparation

The soil in a greenhouse for cucumbers should be loose, fertile and moderately moist. This can be achieved by preparing a soil mixture suitable for plants and installing drainage.

Soil in a greenhouse

Beds in winter greenhouses can be of two types:

• insulated or heated box from below;
• a trench filled with biodegradable organic matter.

Both types of beds help protect plants from freezing roots. Insulation is carried out using polystyrene or polyurethane insulation boards laid on the bottom of boxes and trenches. Heating can be water, in the form of heating pipes, or electric (heating cable).

Ground heating with cable

Heating the soil with heating pipes

Warm beds with biodegradable organic matter are filled with wooden logs, branches, straw, dry leaves and grass, and topped with fertile soil. In this case, large logs and branches are placed on the bottom - they additionally play the role of drainage.

Preparing a “warm bed”

Types and arrangement of warm beds

The components of a warm bed after the start of decomposition of organic matter contain all the elements necessary for plants; it is enough to carry out regular fertilizing throughout the growing season. The soil for heated beds must be properly prepared.

Soil composition for growing cucumbers:

• last year's sawdust from deciduous wood - 1 bucket;
• humus - 2 buckets;
• peat - 2 buckets;
• wood ash - 1.5 cups;
• nitrophoska or nitroammofoska – 150 grams.

The specified quantity is enough to fill a bed 30 cm high and approximately 1.5 m2 in area. The components are mixed in a separate container or directly in the box, the bed is watered with a warm solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect it from bacterial infections. Then the soil is treated with a solution of “Fitosporin” against fungal rot.

After soaking for two days, the bed is watered with an EM preparation diluted in warm water (Baikal, Emochka, Siyanie) and covered with film or covering material for a week. During this time, the soil is structured, the active work of soil bacteria begins and the fertilizers are transferred into a form that is easily digestible by plants. The greenhouse is ready for planting seeds or seedlings.

Prices for humus

humus