How to grow tomatoes - care, planting, subtleties and nuances

Every gardener was once a beginner too. In fact, growing fruit and vegetable plants is not so easy. And you can grow this or that crop using the trial and error method.

Tomatoes are in second place in popularity. But how do you know which variety is right for you? How to grow correctly so that the crop does not get sick, grows well and gives a stable harvest? Read about all this, the nuances of planting tomatoes, difficulties in growing, and the main mistakes gardeners make in the article.

Botanical description

The tomato (or tomato) is a herbaceous perennial plant native to South America. Tomatoes have been known since the end of the 16th century, but in our homeland they have been cultivated only since the 18th century. Genus: nightshade, nightshade family.

The tomato inflorescence is often yellow, the leaf is light green to dark green in color. Sometimes there is fluff or resemblance to a potato leaf.

Its closest relative is the potato, with which it is not recommended to plant tomatoes. Tomatoes are divided according to various criteria: type of growth, ripening period, purpose, color, etc. After flowering ends, fruit clusters appear on the bush, on which up to 10 fruits are located. Some tomatoes ripen smoothly, others do not. In this case, summer residents collect the fruits and set them for ripening. Ripe fruits are usually rich, bright red in color and taste from sour-sweet to sweet. The fruit contains several seed chambers with a small number of seeds, which are later used for harvesting for the next planting.

Harvesting and storage

Fruits must be collected in dry weather, picking them off the stalk and placing them in rows in boxes lined with paper.

Ripe red tomato fruits can be stored at a temperature of 1-2 °C for about a month, pink and brown ones at a temperature of 4-5 °C - up to 2 months.

The optimal temperature for storing green fruits is 12-21 °C, for hard pink and red ones 8-10 °C at an air humidity of 85-90%. Late-ripening varieties and hybrids are best stored.

During the ripening process of tomato fruits at a temperature of 20-25 ° C and a relative humidity of 80-90%, pink fruits will turn red after 2-3 days, white ones - after 4-6 days, green ones - after 7-10 days. It has long been noticed that if you put red and brown fruits together with green ones in a dark room, the green ones will take on a red color.

Before frost, you can not remove individual fruits, but pull out the plants by the roots and hang them upside down for ripening.

Types and varieties of tomatoes

To properly grow tomatoes, a gardener needs to know about the type of growth and variety of the plant. Both future yield and susceptibility to diseases depend on the right variety. There are two types of tomato bush:

• Low-growing (determinate, whose growth is limited after the formation of the first flower cluster;
• Tall (indeterminate. Plant growth is not limited).

According to the ripening period, tomatoes are divided according to three criteria:

• Early ripening;
• Average;
• Late.

Early ripening varieties

Growing tomatoes with early ripening is simply a paradise for a summer resident: the bush grows quickly, practically does not have time to get sick with various diseases, and the harvest yields quickly. There are more than 70 varieties and hybrids in the state register of breeding achievements. As they say, for every taste.

As a rule, varieties with early ripening are distinguished not only by their low bush type, but also by excellent fruit characteristics: taste, weight and yield. Early ripening varieties do not require pinching.

The best representatives of the variety : “White filling”, “Iskorka”, “Gruntovy Gribovsky 1180”.

The best varieties of medium ripening

Mid-season tomato varieties produce a harvest in about 100-130 days. Such varieties have good immunity to most nightshade diseases: late blight, blossom end rot, brown spot and others. The fruit size of most mid-ripening varieties is average. Productivity is high.

The best representatives: “Fakel”, “New Transnistria”.

The best late-ripening varieties

Late-ripening varieties are grown mainly in the southern regions of the country. The fruits of this variety ripen late, but bear fruit until autumn. The first fruits from the moment of germination are given in 150 days. Immunity is high, the yield of some varieties is above average.

The best representatives: “Ermak”, “Tortila F1”.

There are also interesting and quite unusual varieties

Our breeders are constantly coming up with something new. The resulting varieties are distinguished not only by improved properties, but also by an interesting shape and color of the fruit.

Low-growing determinate tomatoes

How to grow determinate tomatoes: just like the rest. In principle, they are no different from others. There is one thing in common for most low-growing tomatoes: early ripening and high yields.

The best representatives : “Riddle”, “Crimson Vicante”, “Sanka” and others.

Tall indeterminate tomatoes

Tomatoes of this type reach a height of more than 1-1.5 meters. Other species (if the variety is hybrid) reach a height of two meters. The approximate ripening period for these tomatoes does not exceed 115 days. The size of the fruits is from medium to very large. Productivity and taste are excellent.

The best representatives : “Hybrid Tarasenko 2”, “Persimmon”, “Bear’s Paw” and others.

Dutch selection tomatoes

Tomatoes from Holland are practically no different from Russian ones. There are both early-ripening and medium-ripening varieties. The bushes are the same, with typical leaves. The weight and shape of the berries are also different. Sometimes they differ in color. The yield of Dutch tomatoes is good; up to 10 kg of berries are harvested from one bush.

The best representatives: “Manatee”, “Solarosso”, “Shady Lady”, “Tarpan” and others. Many Dutch tomatoes contain large amounts of sugar in their fruits.

Features of early ripening tomato varieties

Are there any distinctive features of super early varieties? Yes, I have.

• Disease resistance. The most common and unpleasant disease of tomatoes is late blight. The cause of the disease is fungal spores. Late blight develops during a period of increasing difference between day and night temperatures and increasing air humidity. By the beginning of autumn, when weather changes occur, super-early tomatoes have time to ripen. Many varieties, especially hybrids, have stable immunity to fungal and viral diseases.
• Stem size . It is mistakenly believed that super early varieties have small stems. They can be of different sizes. The low-growing tomato “Explosion” grows to only 45 cm, and “Blagovest” F1 has a trunk length of more than 2.5 meters.
• Fruit quality. Different varieties of tomatoes differ in taste. Tomatoes are heat-loving plants. Super early tomatoes ripen in the sunniest, warmest months. Their fruits are sweet and aromatic and are mainly used for salads, making juice, and tomato paste. The taste of the juice made from them is much higher. Tomatoes are stored for a long time and do not lose their presentation during transportation.
• Fruit sizes . Super early tomatoes are not gigantic in size, but there are record holders among them. The fruits of the “Big Momma” tomato reach a weight of 400 grams. But this is rather an exception. Mostly they weigh from 100 to 200 grams, small-fruited ones - 50-75 grams.
• Productivity . All super early tomato varieties have high yields. From plants planted per 1 sq.m. harvest from 7 to 15 kg or more.

How tomatoes reproduce

As is known from the botanical description, tomatoes reproduce not only by seeds. Very often they reproduce by stepsons. And some, more advanced gardeners are able to grow seedlings from trimmed tops.

Seeds

Propagating tomatoes by seeds is the easiest way to grow seedlings. Breeders struggle with a new variety and new seeds every year so that everyone can choose a variety to their taste. Purchased planting material does not require pre-treatment.

Cuttings

This method is usually used for hybrid tomato varieties. This method is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming. Therefore, it is better to obtain seedlings through the seed method. But if you decide to experiment, do the following:

1. Before the onset of autumn frosts, cut the tops and shoots from tomatoes with a powerful stem. The tops should have 2-4 leaves, and the length should not exceed 15 cm;
2. Place the cuttings in a jar of water in the amount of 5 pieces maximum. Immersion depth - no more than 10 cm;
3. After a few days, you will notice that the lower part of the cuttings will grow roots and the stems will begin to grow;
4. After you notice the growing stems, you cut off about 15 cm of the upper part (the lower part, where the roots are, throw it away), put it back in a jar of water and put it in a warm place;
5. When late December or early January arrives, you cut off the root part again and throw it away, continuing to grow the top;
6. The last final stage is the beginning of February. At the end of February, you transplant the tops into the soil, having first removed a couple of lower leaves.

Tops and stepsons

Stepplanting is another effective way to get a new plant. To do this, you cut the overgrown seedlings into a couple of parts. The one that remains in the pot will soon form a stepson from which a new stem will grow. You place the upper part in moist soil or water. It will also grow roots.

Soil requirements

Good soil guarantees a high yield. If we want to enjoy delicious tomatoes, we need to provide the plants with the right soil.

Best soils

The tomato grows well in many types of soil. Best soils:

• medium-heavy;
• rich in humus;
• rich in nutrients;
• well heated;
• moderately humid;
• neutral or slightly acidic: pH, pH 5.2-6.5;
• with high porosity and good structure;
• with an abundance of nutrients (see table);
• free of diseases, pests, weed seeds, toxic salts.

Table. Optimal content of macronutrients in soil for growing tomatoes (according to Rumpel)

Determinate varieties grow poorly on light, peaty soils; the best yields are observed on heavy, humus soils.

You can buy ready-to-use soil from a trusted source, or prepare the substrate yourself accordingly.

Soil preparation

To produce peat soil you will need:

• garden peat;
• chalk or dolomitic lime;
• multicomponent fertilizer.

Organic peat is acidic and therefore requires deacidification to a pH of 6.0-6.5. To do this, add chalk or dolomitic lime - usually 8 kg per 1 m³ of peat, the soil must be mixed well. Before decontamination, it is recommended to supplement the soil with nutrients using one of the multi-nutrient fertilizers, for example, azofoska, also keeping in mind micronutrients.

The deoxidation process can cause some elements, mainly phosphorus and potassium, to become insoluble forms and become unavailable to tomatoes. Peat soil prepared by hand can be used the next day.

A good soil can be created from a mixture of:

• clay soil (from a clover or alfalfa field fertilized with manure 100-150 t/ha);
• peat;
• coarse sand.

The mixture is made in a ratio of 2:1:1 for sowing or 7:4:1 for picking and planting. After mixing, add 2 kg/m³ of chalk and multi-component fertilizer according to the instructions on the package. When preparing seed soil for tomato seedlings, there is no need to use fertilizer.

The prepared soil is suitable for use only after decontamination.

In the case of growing seedlings in an apartment, in containers, you can use soil purchased at a garden store - a universal mix is ​​better.

Soil disinfection

The soil can be disinfected chemically or thermally, the latter method is used more often. For thermal disinfection, steam is used to heat the soil to 95-100 °C - the treatment should last 20-30 minutes. The disadvantage of treating soil with steam is an increase in the concentration of the ammonium form of nitrogen in the soil, which is harmful to tomato seeds and plants in the initial growth phase, so the soil can be used after at least 2-3 weeks.

In the case of chemical disinfection, special preparations are used to combat pests, pathogenic microorganisms and weed seeds - provided that the soil moisture is good and the temperature is at least 10 °C. The procedure is carried out in accordance with the instructions on the label. Horticultural peat does not require decontamination; it is a sterile material.

Growing conditions

In order for the plant to produce normal fruits in the future, the necessary conditions for this must be observed: watering, loosening, mulching and other nuances. The first three are the most important in caring for tomatoes. But the most important condition is a suitable place with enough light.

Illumination

The tomato comes from hot places. If the seedlings do not receive enough light, they become stretched. And then it might break. If a mature bush does not receive normal light during the period of fruit formation, the fruits will take much longer to ripen. The beds should be open, sunny, and there should be no shadow on the site. To ensure that the plant receives light, do not thicken the planting too much.

The temperature should be high enough. Too low a temperature will cause the pollen to become unripe, and a high temperature will cause it to dry out. Such pollen will become sterile and will be unable to pollinate.

Soil moisture and looseness

Caring for tomatoes involves more than just regular watering and weeding. To ensure that the plant breathes normally and suffers as little as possible from pests, the soil is regularly loosened. Loosening is carried out after each watering, and not when a dry crust has formed on the soil. Why is loosening an important procedure?

Imagine that you are dressed in tight and tight clothes, and it is a hot day outside. You don't have enough air, you feel cramped. The heat makes your blood pressure rise. Now imagine how a plant feels when it grows in dry, dense soil. It withers. The leaves are turning yellow. Flowering and fruit ripening are slow. Weeding provides oxygen access to the stems and roots, and mulching retains moisture well.

How to make drip irrigation with your own hands

It is very good when the garden is small, only a few hundred square meters. But what to do if the garden reaches an area of ​​both 10 and 20 acres? This happens especially often in the countryside. Watering a bunch of plants with a watering can will be a pain in the ass. Therefore, our people constantly simplify their lives. One of the most effective ways to water plants is drip.

It can be done using a pressure reducer and supply water directly from the water supply. But some gardeners purchase a special container for water. For drip irrigation you will need several types of components:

• Special container for water;
• Pump;
• Other additional elements (taps, plugs, corners, tees);
• Hoses;
• Drip tape.

Watering tomatoes through tubes

Some gardeners have gone even further and water the plants using medical droppers. Only the drip tape is replaced with plastic pipes with a diameter of no more than 15-20 mm.

What should be done:

• Cut the pipe into small even pieces that are equal to the length of the beds;
• Close one end of the pipe with a wooden plug;
• On each segment, drill small holes that are equal in diameter to the diameter of the end of the dropper. The interval between holes is 50 cm;
• Lay the pipes along the beds and connect the open end to the main pipe using a fitting;
• Insert a medical dropper into each hole;
• Place the tubes themselves in the area where the tomato roots are located;
• Start watering. The feed speed is self-adjustable.

Underground irrigation

This method is not very popular, since it is associated not only with installation difficulties, but also with risk and high cost. In addition, it is used only for those regions where heat and drought do not subside. With this system, water is supplied directly to the roots.

Disadvantages of this method:

• Expensive;
• Installation difficulties;
• Difficulty in operating the system;
• Risk of pipe blockage;
• Periodic penetration of roots into pipes;
• Damage to pipes by rodents.

Is it possible to grow tomatoes without watering?

Growing tomatoes in open ground involves some nuances. Firstly, it's watering. In order for a tomato to actively grow and bear fruit, it requires a lot of water. But oddly enough, watering the tomato crop should not be too frequent. Many gardeners especially sin with this kind of watering, watering tomatoes all the time, even when they begin to ripen. As a result, the soil becomes too wet and there is a risk of late blight infection. And this disease is the death of the entire crop.

In some regions, in particular Western Siberia, heavy rains are frequent, so much so that a month's worth of rain falls in a day. Naturally, the question arises: is watering necessary at all? Can't a tomato grow on its own? The answer is: growing tomatoes without watering is quite possible if the climate of the region allows for frequent weather changes.

Usually this climate is in central Russia. The root system of tomatoes is very powerful and is capable of extracting moisture from the very depths. If the tomato grows in an arid region, watering is indispensable. To retain moisture in the soil longer, mulching is used. More about her a little later.

Bringing tomatoes to maturity

Tomato ripening is effective both in sunlight and in dim lighting. Although most gardeners believe that vegetables ripen faster in the light.

Do not use airtight containers for ripening

Table 2. General recommendations

Fruits with a diameter of less than 4 cm ripen poorly and shrivel

Due to the fact that milk and blanc tomatoes ripen slowly, the period of their fresh consumption increases by 2 months.

The main factors influencing the speed of ripening are temperature and humidity in the room. By adjusting these indicators, you can slow down or speed up the ripening process.

Green-ripe tomatoes ripen within 1 month

Storing tomatoes

Unlike most vegetable crops, tomatoes have a short shelf life. This creates difficulties for gardeners when resolving issues related to their storage.

Small-fruited varieties with thick skins remain fresh for a long time.

If the temperature conditions are observed, good results can be achieved regardless of the variety:

Tomatoes at the milk stage of ripeness, harvested in late autumn, are stored for an especially long time.

The optimal container for storage is boxes

General recommendations:

1. The room and trays are disinfected.
2. Whole, unripe fruits are selected.
3. Each vegetable is wrapped in soft paper.
4. Boxes with tomatoes are sprinkled with moss, birch sawdust or peat chips.
5. Tomatoes that are at the milk stage of ripeness are placed in boxes, the bottom of which is covered with heat-insulating material. Each layer is alternated with polyurethane foam balls, which retain heat well.
6. When closing, check that the lid of the box does not damage the tomatoes.
7. Tomatoes are stored in a cool, well-ventilated area away from sunlight.
8. Vegetables are regularly sorted and ripened fruits are removed.
9. Indoor air humidity is maintained within 85%.

To maximize shelf life, place tomatoes in the freezer.

If you follow these recommendations, tomatoes remain fresh for 8 weeks. Before eating, vegetables should be left in a warm room for several days.

Some gardeners store frozen tomatoes by placing them in boxes under the snow.

After prolonged storage, tomatoes become sensitive to the effects of pathogenic microorganisms. Harmful bacteria primarily infect the vegetable at the attachment point of the stalk. To prevent rotting, you should follow the rules for cutting fruits and storing the crop, as well as adhere to harvest dates.

Growing seedlings

Since the tomato is propagated by seeds, in order for it to turn into a full-fledged plant, the seedling method is used. You can grow seedlings yourself or purchase them at the market. The main thing is to carefully examine the product for various diseases. The leaves should not be yellow or spotted, and the root should not be dry.

Before planting seedlings, the seeds must be prepared, the soil and planting containers must be disinfected. The timing of planting seeds depends on the variety and region of residence. You can prepare soil for tomatoes yourself or purchase it from a farm store. Purchased soil has many advantages:

• It has already been disinfected;
• No need to apply fertilizer.

In order for the soil to be better distributed in the box, it is steamed. To do this, place the soil in a bucket, pour boiling water over it, cover with a lid and allow to cool.

Sowing time for seedlings depending on the region

Each gardener calculates these terms independently and knows how to grow tomatoes. The standard period for sowing seeds for seedlings is from the end of March to the end of April. It all depends on the variety of tomatoes: ultra-early ones are planted in April, early ones - in mid-April; mid-season - at the end of March; middle and late - in mid-March. Planting seeds for seedlings occurs approximately 2 months before the intended planting in the ground.

Residents of the Middle Zone often plant ultra-early and early varieties of tomatoes, as they bear fruit faster. It is not recommended to grow late varieties of tomatoes in this region, as they will not have time to ripen and produce a harvest.

Preparing for landing

It’s not enough to grow seedlings. Equally important is preliminary soil preparation for tomatoes. It is also important to prepare the seating area. Firstly, it should be well lit, but in moderation. Despite the fact that tomatoes love light, they do not tolerate direct rays of the sun well. The ideal place for future bushes would be a place next to a greenhouse or tree.

If you dig up and enrich the soil with fertilizers in the fall, the tomatoes will grow well, practically without diseases, and will give a good harvest. If the acidity level in the soil is elevated, the tomatoes will soon wilt and become diseased. But how do you know the acid level in the soil? It’s very simple: buy a special test. For tomatoes, the optimal level is 6-7. And to reduce the acid level, lime is used. For one sq. a meter takes half a kilogram.

In order to prevent most diseases, rye or mustard is planted in the soil, and a solution of copper sulfate is also poured. The beds for tomatoes themselves are formed about a week before planting.

Varieties of planting

In total, there are 3 types of landing. There are different types of landing:

• Square-nested;
• Tape-nested;
• Tape.

Square nest planting

Planting tomatoes according to the square-cluster pattern is carried out like a square. Its size must be at least 80*80. Approximately 3 plants are planted in the prepared square, with a distance of 50 cm from each other. The distance between each square should be approximately 80 cm.

Tape-nest planting

This variety is usually used when planting potatoes, but can also be used for tall types of tomatoes. To do this, long trenches are dug in the soil, with the same width and depth of at least 30 cm. Young seedlings are planted on both sides with a distance of 40 cm. The distance between the trenches is up to one and a half meters.

Tape

The last landing scheme is slightly similar to the previous one. Here, too, trenches are dug, but with a smaller distance - about 80 cm. Shallow holes are dug in the trenches.

Seed preparation

Before planting seeds, many carry out pre-sowing preparation. It includes two stages:

• Warming up;
• Disinfection.

At the first stage, the planting material is soaked for 20 minutes in a thermos with hot water. Then they cool quickly so that the heat stops. The benefit of this procedure is not only to prevent infection by pathogens, but also to accelerate seed growth. At the second stage, the seeds are soaked for several minutes in aloe juice or a special preparation or potassium permanganate. Some people use other methods:

• Saline solution to identify unsuitable seeds;
• Seed stimulation;
• Soak;
• Germination on a saucer or cotton pad.

Sowing

The process of sowing seeds is simple: fill the planting container with moist substrate and compact the soil. The landing itself consists of the following stages:

• Planting depth - 1 cm, distance between seeds no more than 2 cm;
• Mandatory leveling of the soil after sowing;
• Irrigation from a spray bottle;
• Covering with glass or regular film to create a greenhouse effect;
• Cleaning in a warm place, with a maximum temperature of 25 degrees.

Picking

Picking is planting seedlings in separate containers. It is needed so that the seedlings become more independent and receive more light and freedom. It is carried out when the seedling has formed a pair of true leaves. Before planting in a separate container, it is disinfected.

The seedling is carefully removed with a lump of earth or new soil is added. Make a small hole in the soil and plant a seedling there, then water it a little. Then the container with the sprout is taken for a couple of days to a place protected from direct sunlight. After the required time has passed, the seedlings are brought out into the light.

Care

Sometimes it’s amazing to watch how a tomato grows: first it’s a small seed, then it’s a tiny sprout, which eventually turns into a small plant. Caring for seedlings includes moderate watering, moistening with a spray bottle; ventilation; a couple of fertilizing with phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen; preventive examinations for diseases; regular loosening of the soil after watering.

Hardening

Many people consider this procedure optional, but it is very important. Without it, plants will adapt poorly and grow more slowly. Hardening helps the seedling to quickly get used to environmental conditions. What you need to do for hardening: take the seedlings out into the fresh air every day. Every day the time the seedlings spend in the air increases. The duration of hardening is two weeks before planting in a permanent place.

Fertilizers

Tomatoes grow better in the 2-3rd year after applying manure. In the first year after fertilizing, only dwarf varieties develop well.

When growing tomatoes, nitrogen fertilizers, phosphorus and potassium are especially important. When using organic fertilizers, the following doses of mineral fertilizers should be applied (based on soil analysis):

Nitrogen fertilizers are given in 2 doses:

1. The first time before planting seedlings.
2. 2 weeks after planting the seedlings.

In the case of fast-growing tomato varieties, the application of nitrogen fertilizers is divided into 3 parts. Doses of phosphorus and potassium can also be divided, but it is recommended to apply them completely before planting seedlings. Potash fertilizers should be applied to tomatoes in the form of potassium sulfate. It is recommended to fertilize with green nettle humus every 15 days, 2-3 times after planting the seedlings.

Lime should not be applied immediately before growing tomatoes because they are sensitive to it.

In autumn, magnesium or dolomite lime is applied at a dose of 30-50 t/ha (300-500 kg/area) for plowing.

Transplantation to a permanent place

Seedlings are transplanted to a permanent location only when the soil has warmed to the optimum temperature, approximately 15 degrees. For a greenhouse, the temperature is approximately 10 degrees. In addition, the beds are also dug up and the necessary fertilizers are applied: bird guano and ammonium sulfate. What kind of soil do tomatoes like? Of course, warm and non-sour. To reduce the acid level, add lime or sprinkle wood ash. But what does the planting process itself include?

1. The seedling is carefully removed from the temporary container, being careful not to damage the roots and soil;
2. Place in the center of the hole so that the lower leaves are located just above the edge;
3. The hole is lightly sprinkled with earth and the soil is compacted;
4. Watered.

If some seedlings are too tall or elongated, they are planted with a slight slope of the stem.

Preparing the beds

When planting tomatoes in open ground, all conditions must be met:

• The soil has been pre-prepared: disinfected, optimal acidity level, fertilizers applied;
• The beds are pre-dug and well watered;
• The seedlings are hardened.

For the beds, choose only well-hardened and mature seedlings, 60-65 days old. This usually happens in early May, and planting is done early in the morning, before the sun begins to actively fry. The distance between plants depends on the variety, or rather, on the type of bush: determinate or indeterminate. Tall plants are planted at a distance of 60 cm, low ones - at 40 cm. Do not forget to water the soil well before planting the seedlings.

Planting scheme

The density and distance between seedlings depends on the variety and type of bush. The standard landing scheme looks like this:

• Determinate - 40*50;
• Average height - 50*60;
• Indeterminate - 60*70.

Planting process

Planting tomatoes in open ground includes the following points:

• A suitable area has been selected: well ventilated and sunny;
• The seedlings have reached the optimal age;
• Plant seedlings when the first cluster of flowers appears;
• The holes are watered;
• Planting with deepening or tilting (if the seedlings are stretched);
• After planting, the seedlings are watered again and sprinkled with dry soil.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Planting in solar-heated greenhouses, frames and film tunnels in the Non-Black Earth Region is carried out from mid-May, in the south a month earlier. To speed up the heating of the soil, ash, peat chips, and crushed coal are scattered on the snow.

The soil in the greenhouse is loosened, filled with humus (a bucket per 1 m2) and wood ash. The top spent layer is replaced in the fall, after harvesting. The prepared soil is watered with a solution of a biological product to activate the work of soil bacteria.

Mark the places for planting seedlings and sow compacting crops: lettuce, spinach.

The tomato responds well to proximity to basil, leeks, stalked celery, parsley and marigolds.

Film covering of unheated greenhouses saves plants from temperatures not lower than -2 ° C; at lower temperatures, additional shelter is required. Taking this into account, seedlings are planted when the threat of spring frosts has passed and the soil has warmed up to 14-16 °C.

The tomato is placed with row spacing of 70 cm or in a strip method (the distance between strips is 90 cm, between rows in a strip is 50 cm). Leave 35-40 cm between plants in a row. Trellis wire is pulled over the rows. It is better to plant plants on a cloudy day, and in sunny weather - in the evening.

The hole is made in such a size that the entire root ball and 3-5 cm of the stem can freely fit into it. Before planting, seedlings and planting holes are watered generously with warm water. Place 3-4 handfuls of loose humus in each hole.

The seedlings are buried down to the first leaves, the soil is pressed down and watered from a watering can through a strainer. It is necessary to ensure that the roots do not bend upward along the stem.

Then all the “bare” soil in the greenhouse is mulched first with a layer of humus, then with mown grass, which always contains dandelion and nettle leaves. After a week, the plants are tied to the trellises under the first or second leaves so that during the process of growth and thickening of the stem the twine does not cut into it.

Caring for tomatoes in open ground

If you care for it correctly and comprehensively, then tomatoes grow well in the garden.

Caring for tomatoes in open ground includes the following:

• Periodic uniform watering;
• Regular loosening of the soil after each watering;
• Application of mulch;
• Application of fertilizing for more active growth and fruiting;
• Preventive measures to prevent diseases and pests.

The bush needs to be looked after not only during active growth, but also during flowering. There is a little secret on how to make the plant set fruit faster. To do this, the inflorescences are sprayed with a solution of boric acid from a spray bottle.

Bush formation

For open ground, a plant with 1 stem is usually formed. Tomatoes grow as usual, this does not affect the yield. But in a greenhouse the yield is lower, so the young bush is formed into 3 stems. Productivity in greenhouse conditions will be higher. Too many stepsons reduce the yield and size of the fruit.

Stepsoning

Early ripening varieties do not require pinching, as they have time to quickly grow and produce a harvest. But varieties with medium and late ripening period need to periodically break out shoots - stepchildren. Otherwise, each new shoot that appears will form a new stem, and the plant will not have time to set fruit. Typically, pinching is carried out in the early stages of the growing season, early in the morning. They are either broken out or cut off at a centimeter distance from the main stem.

Tying tomatoes

If the variety description indicates that this species is productive, then tying is mandatory. Without it, the fruit cluster tends to the ground, the fruits become dirty and begin to rot. The gartering begins immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground. A trellis or wooden peg is used for support, and strips of fabric, twine or rope are used for garter. The plant is not tied very tightly so as not to damage the stem. As a rule, determinate varieties of tomatoes do not require staking.

Watering

As soon as about two weeks have passed after planting, begin watering. It is not recommended to immediately water newly planted seedlings, otherwise the root will not be well established in the ground and will not be able to adapt. At least 5 liters of water are added to each bush, since the roots of tomatoes are very powerful.

When watering, do not touch the greens under any circumstances, otherwise burns will appear on the leaves. Use a proven method: point (simple watering can). The water should be warm. For this purpose, many gardeners use a tank in which the water settles during the day.

The optimal time for watering is early morning or evening, after the sun has set. During active growth, plants gain strength and form greenery and ovaries. But the frequency of watering should be no more than once a week. Watering too frequently will cause the soil to become waterlogged, which will cause late blight infection and root rot.

Feeding

How to grow tomatoes without special fertilizers? Even people treat themselves to all sorts of goodies. And for tomatoes, feeding is vital. Without it, the crop will get sick, and the taste and quality of the fruit will deteriorate. Feed the plant throughout the entire time. When the bush is actively developing, nitrogen is added. During the formation of fruit ovaries - potassium and phosphorus. Phosphorus strengthens the roots, and potassium strengthens the immune system. Feeding stages:

1. The first is a couple of weeks after planting the seedlings in the ground. What is used: bird guano, mullein, wood ash;
2. The second - a decade after the second fruit cluster blooms. What is used: liquid organic matter and a complex of minerals;
3. The third is when the first berries begin to ripen. Fertilizers are the same, the dosage is higher;
4. The last one is after two weeks have passed since the third.

Mulching

Not all gardeners use this procedure. But it not only helps to retain moisture in the roots, but also prevents overheating of the soil. If there is mulch on the bed, then loosening is not required. For mulch, peat, dry straw, humus, and non-woven material are used. But they do not cover for the entire period, but periodically remove and renew the layer, and also inspect for the presence of pests.

Pollination

Tomatoes are a self-pollinating crop. But insects provide significant assistance: wasps, bees, bumblebees. Sometimes, in order to attract beneficial insects to the site, gardeners plant honey plants: mint, lemon balm, mustard, basil. And to speed up the pollination process, do the following:

• Shake the bush a little;
• Lightly tap the flower brush and then spray with warm water.

Graft

This method is used to increase productivity. Two plants are used: the rootstock (main) and the scion (additional).

Vaccination takes place in several stages:

• 4-5 seeds are sown in a glass with nutritious soil;
• A week after the emergence of seedlings, the two strongest plants are selected, and the rest are either cut or pinched;
• Grafting begins when the stems have reached a height of several cm;
• The plant with a thicker stem serves as a rootstock. Small cuts are made on the stems, no more than 15-20 mm long, with a diameter of no more than half the diameter of the stem. The sections are not combined, but tightly wrapped with a special tape;
• After this, the glass with the seedlings is placed in a place protected from the sun for several days. Once the due date has passed, the seedlings are returned to their permanent place;
• The stems will grow together in a couple of weeks. As soon as this has happened, the top of the rootstock is cut off from the plant above the grafting site.

Picking

If you do not pick in time, the plant will simply suffocate in the container, it will not have enough space, the roots will become weak and the future bush will develop poorly in the soil. What grown plants look like without picking: like people in a cramped elevator who lack air and space. The stems become weak and the roots become thinner. Therefore, picking is mandatory. But everything needs to be done on time.

The picking procedure begins when the plant has grown a little and has formed two or three leaves. You can replant it together with a lump of earth from the box or fill it with new soil (after filling it with turf), making a small depression. Next, moisten and compact the planting soil. The containers can also be left in the boxes, only by arranging the seedlings more freely.

Removing leaves and ovaries

This method is needed so that the tomatoes ripen faster. The plant will not waste its energy and substances on the growth of greenery, but will give it to pouring berries. But you shouldn’t cut off all the foliage at once. No more than one leaf is removed per day, up to the first flower cluster. This procedure is necessary and has practical benefits, because after it the plant will be able to breathe normally. The ovaries are removed so that the fruits are larger and juicier.

How to save tomatoes from frost

The weather is a very unpredictable lady. It often happens that as soon as warm weather sets in, frost sets in or it even snows. This weather often occurs in late May and early June. In this case, there is a high risk of plant death.

To prevent this, the plants are covered with a special material, stretching them over metal or plastic arches. To be sure, so that the film does not fly away, it is pressed down with bricks. As soon as the daytime temperature reaches above 10 degrees and there is no wind, the greenhouse is opened to allow the plants to breathe.

Pruning tomatoes

This procedure is necessary in order to direct all the beneficial substances to the ripening of the fruit. All lower leaves of plants are removed, up to the first flower cluster. The pruning procedure follows the following rules:

• Tools (garden shears, knife or pruning shears) must be disinfected;
• If you don't want to use cutting tools, pull out the leaves yourself by grasping the petiole tightly at the base and yanking sharply. Do not pull the petiole down, otherwise you will damage its base, and infection will penetrate through the resulting wound;
• Do not prune immediately after planting in the ground. We must wait until the plants adapt. The adaptation process takes up to two weeks;
• Pruning is carried out only in the morning, before the active sun begins;
• The frequency of pruning is once a week. The number of leaves at a time is no more than 2-3.

Climatic requirements - temperature, air and soil humidity

In our country, due to climatic conditions, tomatoes are grown from May to October. Before growing tomatoes, you need to familiarize yourself with the temperature conditions for cultivating seedlings and adult bushes. Temperature conditions suitable for tomatoes are as follows:

• Temperatures of 2 °C are detrimental to tomatoes.
• Seeds germinate better at 14-16 °C, the optimal temperature is 18-20 °C.
• The tomato grows well with a temperature difference of 8-10 °C between day and night, the most suitable temperatures being 25 °C during the day and 17 °C at night.
• It takes approximately 30°C for flowers to appear and fruit to set.

When it comes to temperature fluctuations, unfortunately, tomatoes are sensitive to both low and high temperatures. A long cold season, unfortunately, can slow down plant growth and cause flowers to drop. On the other hand, on very hot days, when temperatures reach above 30 °C, plants do not produce lycopene, which is responsible for the red color of tomatoes.

It is better to choose a place protected from the wind for growing.

Tomato does not have significant requirements for air humidity, but develops better at a relative humidity of 50-60%. High humidity increases the risk of disease.

Soil moisture is more important for growth. At the initial stage of development of a tomato bush (and when growing seedlings), the soil should contain 70-75% NV, 90% NV when planting seedlings, 80% NV in subsequent stages. There is no need to maintain higher soil moisture, not to mention stagnant water, so as not to provoke the development of fungal diseases and plant death.

A tomato is a plant that requires two factors for proper growth - heat and sun. Therefore, it grows better in sunny places.

The main mistakes when growing tomatoes

This is mainly the sin of novice gardeners. They do not yet know many secrets, so the plant may not live up to their expectations. The most common mistakes:

• Seeds for seedlings are sown at the wrong time;
• Growing a variety intended for a greenhouse in the ground;
• The gardener purchased the seedlings already with flower stalks. This is fraught with slow rooting and fruit formation;
• Frequent watering;
• Overfeeding, especially with nitrogen: this affects the taste;
• Planting in the ground ahead of schedule: the seedlings freeze and die.

Classification of tomatoes by purpose

The variety of tomatoes for your garden should be selected taking into account not only the climatic characteristics of the region, but also your plans for the harvest. After all, it depends on the shape, size, and density of the fruits whether they are suitable only for salads or also suitable for homemade rolls.

Tomatoes for fresh consumption

What kind of tomatoes should be that go straight from the garden to the salad? Juicy, fleshy, sweet, with thin skin. Beef tomatoes (Bull's heart, Ox's heart), cherry tomatoes (Dessert, Pink Cherry, Madeira F1) and any other tomatoes with a pleasant taste and dense pulp are ideal for this purpose.

Italian fluted tomato for salads

Popular varieties and hybrids of tomatoes for fresh consumption: Watermelon, Danko, Infiniti F1, Italian fluted, Nadezhda F1.

Tomatoes for processing

If you can’t go through a single season without storing vegetables grown in your garden for the winter, it makes sense to allocate one bed for tomatoes intended for processing. Tomatoes that are suitable for drying and preparing lecho, sauces or tomato juice should be fleshy, with a minimum number of seeds. But their sweet taste is not at all necessary, given that the fruits undergo heat treatment.

Tomato variety Babushkin secret for processing

In most recipes it is recommended to remove the skin, so the skin of these tomatoes should not be too dense.

Popular varieties and hybrids of tomatoes for processing: Grandmother's Secret, Bull's Heart, Budenovka, Ispolin, Cardinal, Mazarin, Mashenka.

Tomatoes for canning

Tomatoes for pickling and canning should be small, regular in shape, dense, with hard skin that is resistant to cracking.

Tomato variety De Barao for canning

Popular varieties and hybrids of tomatoes for whole-fruit canning: De Barao, Children's sweetness, Golden fingers, Sanka, Chibis, Elf, Chocolate bullet.

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All purpose tomatoes

If you do not have the opportunity to allocate separate beds for tomatoes for different purposes, choose universal varieties for sowing, the fruits of which are good both fresh and will not lose their shape when canned.

Tomato variety Shchelkovsky for universal use

Popular varieties and hybrids of universal-purpose tomatoes: Alaska, Infinity F1, Pink Andromeda F1, Chio-chio-san, Shchelkovsky early.

Diseases and pests

Like any plant, the tomato periodically suffers from diseases and harmful insects. Diseases affect everything: roots, stems, and fruits. Pests most often eat tops, sometimes fruits.

Types of diseases

There are two types of nightshade diseases: fungus and virus. The difficulty with the latter is that they cannot be treated. The only thing left to do is destroy the affected bushes.

Fungal diseases

These diseases affect either the fruits or the tops. Types of fungal diseases:

• Late blight;
• "Blackleg";
• Powdery mildew;
• Gray and apical rot.

Viral diseases

Viral diseases are much more dangerous and also affect neighboring plants.

The most common of them:

• Mosaic;
• Stolbur;
• Aspermia and others.

Types of pests

An equally serious problem is pest infestation. Very often they occur when there is an abundance of weeds in the beds. The most common pests of tomatoes:

• Colorado potato beetle , which lays countless eggs, from which very voracious larvae hatch. Larvae and beetles eat the tops;
• Aphids: eats tops;
• Armyworm caterpillars: eat fruit;
• Mole cricket: a voracious insect that eats roots and seedlings. Capable of destroying up to 30% of seedlings;
• Wireworms: click beetle larvae that eat roots and stems;
• Root-knot nematode: A very small roundworm that burrows into leaf hairs and roots. Due to his “tricks,” the plant’s nutrition is disrupted.

Disease and pest control

If the plant is sick, it is treated with special fungicides, the affected parts are removed and burned. If the entire plant is affected, it is eliminated. Pests are a little easier. As a rule, infusions with a pungent odor or special preparations are used to repel them.

• Mole cricket: vinegar and red pepper, as well as special shallow poisonous baits;
• Wireworm: prevention will help - alkalization of acidic soils and planting white mustard;
• Colorado potato beetle: onion infusion and Bordeaux mixture, “Taboo” preparation, collecting beetles and larvae by hand;
• Armyworm caterpillars: timely weeding and application of poison a couple of weeks after planting the seedlings;
• Aphids: bait with glue, a solution of laundry soap and spraying with an insecticide once every couple of weeks;
• Nematode: poison will not help. The only way out is to disinfect the soil and garden tools.

Disease Prevention

To protect the plant, it is not enough to choose a variety that has good immunity. It is better to protect the soil in a timely manner. For this purpose, Bacillus subtilis and Trichoderma are used. These elements are contained in Fitosporin. These preparations are poured into the garden bed before planting. Pests are perfectly repelled by infusion of marigold flowers or planting them between tomatoes. Also, before planting, autumn digging is carried out in advance: the soil is loosened, removing plant debris and insects that have hibernated there.

For example, often in the spring, when planting potatoes or tomatoes, when digging, you can see sleeping Colorado potato beetles. Namely, they are the most important pests of nightshades. A very important nuance in prevention is to observe crop rotation. Many people ignore it, and then the plant quickly becomes infected with late blight.

The rule of crop rotation is that plants cannot be planted in the same place several times in a row. While the previous plants are in the soil, infections accumulate. It is foolish to think that autumn and winter frosts will destroy a fungus or virus. Even mold lives for billions of years in any conditions.

Need for pruning

The tomato is considered a capricious heat-loving vegetable. It bears fruit poorly in low light conditions.

During fruiting, it is necessary to thin out the foliage on the bushes

In a dense planting pattern, the leaves block access to the sun. This significantly inhibits the development of vegetables and contributes to the rapid withering of the bush. In addition, a large amount of greenery will drain all the energy from the crop for its own nutrition, and not for supporting the growth of fruits.

After removing the leaves, there is a significant increase in yield and a decrease in the number of parasitic organisms.

Regular pruning helps vegetables grow in size.

General rules for cutting foliage:

1. Leaves touching the ground are cut off first. This allows light to reach the base of the stem.
2. Then the first row of the flower brush is released, which prevents the development of pathologies.
3. Peripheral foliage is also removed.
4. Leaves that shade other external organs of the plant are thinned out.
5. Only the strongest stepson is left on the bush. This will concentrate all useful elements in one place. As a rule, it is located under the first inflorescence.
6. When tying vegetables, cut out all the foliage below the level of the fruit.
7. At the final stage, the tops are cut off, leaving only a small ligature.
8. The frequency of pruning is 3 times a week.

Even weekly cleaning of bushes from excess greenery will significantly increase the yield of the beds.

The pruning method depends on the tomato variety.

Subtleties of cleaning

It would seem that it could be simpler: pick the fruit and that’s it. But picking berries has its own nuances:

• Buds and flower stalks are removed several weeks before the end of harvest. This is necessary so that the remaining fruits ripen faster;
• Ugly fruits are removed first. They are of no benefit, and perhaps an infection is brewing in them;
• Harvesting is carried out until the night temperature drops below 8 degrees Celsius. If the temperature is low, the crop will freeze and die.

Harvest time

It is possible to increase the quantity and significantly improve the quality of fruits only with strict adherence to harvesting rules. The regularity of collection is of no small importance. Harvesting can be carried out at the stage of partial ripening or full ripening of tomatoes. In the first case, it may be necessary to ripen the fruits, but already at the stage of milky ripeness, tomatoes are edible and can be used for preparing soup dressing, salads and canning.

In closed ground, harvesting takes longer. When growing plants outdoors, the last fruits should be harvested before the end of August, and in cold and rainy summers, the harvest time is reduced to the second ten days of August.

Tomato Golden Domes

The collected votes allowed these tomatoes to take 4th place in the rating. They have a lot of good reviews, since the variety has almost no flaws, for which it is recognized and loved by many. It exhibits high resistance to major diseases, and timely applied insecticides will repel harmful insects.

Determinate bushes (height from 90 to 150 cm), medium ripening period (100-116 days). You will still have to form the plants into 2-3 stems and tie them up, so it won’t be possible without any effort on your part. The yield is very good - up to 13 kg per bush with an average weight of tomatoes of 200-400 g, and if the care is good, they will gain all 800 g! Ripe fruits are bright orange, juicy even in appearance. The pulp is fleshy, very tasty, sweet.

“I love golden domes very much - tasty, productive and beautiful. Excellent variety! Lyubov Chernoguz.

Abakan pink tomato

On the 9th line - a variety of medium-late ripening (110-120 days from germination), determinate type (height - 70-80 cm). In a greenhouse it can grow up to 140-150 cm. The bush needs to be formed into 1-2 stems and tied up. It will ripen pink, heart-shaped fruits (weighing up to 300 g) with tasty, dense pulp. If you care for the plants correctly, you can harvest tomatoes weighing up to 800 g, rivaling in size the popular Ox's Heart.

There are many positive reviews about growing this tomato; no one criticizes it. It can be grown in Siberia, and to protect the bushes from returning spring or late autumn frosts, a light film cover will be enough. This representative of the nightshade family rarely gets sick; Colorado potato beetles will only have to be driven away from immature seedlings. In a word, it won’t cause you much trouble, and will delight you with tomatoes – both in salads in the summer and in preparations for the winter.

“I recommend Abakan pink. Unpretentious and very tasty." Lydia Domnikova-Kazakova.

Large-fruited early tomatoes

Among the early ripening varieties, many varieties and hybrid forms have appeared, characterized by large-fruited fruits. It is advisable to pick the fruits in a state of technical ripeness, so that they ripen at home, and other batches of tomatoes have time to form on the bushes.

Classification of tomatoes by color

The traditional color of tomatoes is red. Yellow or pink ones are a little less common, and white, black, purple and green tomatoes are infrequent guests on our table. But in vain! Growing these tomatoes is not that difficult, they are tasty and extremely healthy.

Red tomatoes

Red tomatoes are a “classic of the genre.” They owe their color to the pigment lycopene. It is believed that this substance helps prevent cardiovascular and even cancer diseases, as well as eye diseases.

Tomato variety Alaska

True, you shouldn’t overuse red tomatoes. They are not toxic, but there is a case in which one tomato lover literally turned red on a tomato diet. Fortunately, my skin regained its healthy tone after eliminating this vegetable from my diet.

Popular varieties and hybrids of red tomatoes: Alaska, Babushkin Secret, Bugai Krasny, Budenovka, Dachnik, Major F1.

Yellow and orange tomatoes

The color of such tomatoes is due to the high content of alpha and beta carotene in the fruit, as well as vitamin C. Thanks to these substances, eating orange and yellow tomatoes helps improve vision and skin elasticity, reduces the risk of developing stomach and respiratory diseases (including lung cancer), relieves inflammation in arthritis.

Popular varieties and hybrids of yellow and orange tomatoes: Yellow Cherry, Zlatozar F1, Mila F1, Matthew F1, Amber.

Pink tomatoes

Pink tomatoes are sweeter, more tender and healthier than red ones: they contain much more microelements and sugars, as well as individual B vitamins, lycopene and carotene.

Regular consumption of pink tomatoes strengthens the immune system, improves cerebral circulation, reduces the risk of developing cardiovascular diseases, cancer, and helps fight asthenia and depression.

Tomato variety Pink Giant

Popular varieties and hybrids of pink tomatoes: Victoria F1, Wild Rose, De Barao Tsarsky, Pink Giant, Pink Bush F1, Pink Unicum F1, Eagle Beak, Miracle of the Earth, Cherry Rio F1.

Purple tomatoes

The violet color of the fruits of such tomatoes is due to the phenols and anthocyanins they contain. These substances strengthen the heart muscle, reduce the risk of stroke, improve coordination of movements, restore emotional balance, and improve working memory in older people.

Tomato variety Blueberry

Popular varieties of purple tomatoes: Marizol purple, Blue tomato, Lilac lake, Blueberry, Chernomor.

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Green tomatoes

The green color of a tomato is not necessarily a sign that it is unripe. Green-fruited tomatoes are a new product in the world selection. They are a real salvation for allergy sufferers who cannot tolerate lycopene and anthocyanin contained in traditionally colored tomato fruits.

Tomato variety Malachite Box

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Due to the high concentration of chlorophyll in these tomatoes, their consumption is a good prevention of cataracts and breast cancer, protection from harmful UV radiation, rapid healing of skin wounds, and stimulation of metabolism.

Popular varieties of green tomatoes: Swamp, Malachite Box, Emerald Gem, Jade Gem.

Black tomatoes

Like purple tomatoes, black tomatoes boast a high anthocyanin content. However, in addition to the beneficial effect on the cardiovascular system, black tomatoes are considered an aphrodisiac and are good for men's health.

Popular varieties of black tomatoes: Evening, Dagestan, My Favorite, Black Russian, Chocolate.

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White tomatoes

The white color of tomatoes is due to the anthoxanthin content in the fruit. This pigment is useful for strengthening the immune system, normalizing blood pressure and fighting cholesterol.

Tomato variety Lotus

Popular varieties of white tomatoes: Lotus, White Sugar, White Ox Heart, Big Ice Cream.

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Tomato Monomakh's Cap

6th step of the conditional “pedestal”. These bright red tomatoes will appeal to lovers of large fruits - they weigh from 400 to 900 g. The pulp has a balanced taste thanks to the harmonious ratio of acids and sugar.

The type of fruiting is mid-early (90-110 days pass from the moment the seedlings are planted). The bushes are indeterminate, formed on a trunk. The plant successfully resists diseases, but prefers warmth to cold, so in the northern regions it is better to grow bushes in a greenhouse. In protected soil conditions, the yield is impressive and reaches 20 kg per 1 sq.m. In the garden, the indicators are also decent - up to 8 kg per bush.

Tomato Yablonka Russia

Tomatoes with such a reverent name could not help but get into the top - they ripen early - from the time the first shoots appear until the moment when the bushes are completely strewn with small round fruits (weighing about 100 g) and really similar to bulk apples, it takes from 118 to 135 days.

Many consider this tomato to be problem-free - it is determinate, standard bushes grow low - up to 100 cm; there is no need to shape them and pin them; They are not capricious and feel great and set fruit both in the greenhouse and in the open ground. One bush can simultaneously ripen up to 100 neat tomatoes suitable for canning - the skin will not burst, there is no need to worry. Not a tomato, but just a sight for sore eyes!

Classification of tomatoes according to fruit shape

Tomatoes are not only black, yellow, white or red. They also differ in the size and shape of the fruit: oval and round, plum-shaped and pepper-shaped, with and without a spout.

1. Round (Alka, Alaska, Dar Zavolzhya Pink, Riddle, Infinity F1, Lyana, Sanka, Hurricane F1, Cherolla F1);
2. Flat-round (Watermelon, Banzai, Nadezhda F1, Orange Queen, Pink Andromeda F1, Black Russian);
3. With spout (Spring drops, Eugenia, Little Prince, Twist F1, Hali-Gali F1, Lapwing, Citrina F1);
4. Plum-shaped, or oval (Avizo F1, Galera, Children's sweetness, De Barao, Odeon, Chio-chio-san, Charada);
5. Pear-shaped (Bull's Heart, Riviera, Emerald Pear, Golden Rain, Ivan Kupala, One Hundred Poods, Taiko);
6. Heart-shaped (Batyanya, Behemoth king, Danko, Herodes);
7. Pepper-shaped (Auria, Zhigalo, Zabava, Casanova, Hugo).

Largest seed producers

Every major seed producer must be licensed. Manufacturers focus on certain plant qualities. In addition to tomatoes, the largest agricultural firms have other varieties of vegetable and ornamental crops.

Dutch varieties

• Tomato Esmira F1. Large-fruited, early ripening, indeterminate, yield 12 kg/m2.
• Solerosso F1. Medium-fruiting, early-ripening, determinate, yield 8 kg/m2.
• Donald F1. Ultra-early, standard , yield up to 10 kg/m2.

Seeds Partner

• Tomato Andromeda F1. Mid-early, determinant, yield 8.5-10 kg/m2.
• Duchess F1. Ultra-early, determinate, yield 14-16 kg/m2.
• The pride of the feast. Early ripening, indeterminate, yield 17-19 kg/m2.

Aelita seeds

• Tomato Smuglyanka. Early ripening, determinate, yield 7.5 kg/m2.
• Potbellies. Mid-early, determinant, yield up to 9 kg/m2.
• Tiger cub. Mid-early, indeterminate, yield up to 9.5 kg/m2.

Siberian collection

• Siberian apple. Mid-early, frost-resistant , semi-determinate, yield up to 9 kg/m2.
• Abakan pink. Mid-early, indeterminate, yield up to 10 kg/m2.
• Bulls-eye. Early, indeterminate, yield up to 10-12 kg/m2.

From private breeders

• Tomato Raspberry Onslaught. Indeterminate, mid-early, yield up to 20 kg/m2 .
• Ferris wheel. Indeterminate, mid-early, the weight of the largest tomatoes can be up to 1.7 kg .
• Lorraine beauty. Decorative tomato, indeterminate, mid-season, weight of one tomato up to 500 g.

The most unpretentious varieties

Unpretentious varieties include those that:

• do not require a garter. These varieties include dwarf and low-growing plants that form a dense stem. For example: Watercolor (standard variety up to 50 cm high), Miracle of Siberia (determinate plant up to 60 cm high).
• do not require stepsoning. These varieties usually include determinate and standard street tomatoes. For example: Krakowiak (ultra-early ripening, standard bush up to 50 cm), Orange duck (early ripening spreading bush up to 50 cm high),
• shade-tolerant. Shade tolerance is a very relevant indicator for regions with short summers and lack of sunlight. Such varieties can also be grown on balconies in the winter season.

Tomato Ob domes F1

The hybrid is intended for cultivation in open ground and under film cover. The bush is determinate, low: in open ground the height of the plant rarely exceeds 50-60 cm, in protected ground - 70 cm. When growing, staking and partial pinching are necessary. Productivity is about 5 kg per bush, subject to compliance with agricultural technology.

Fruits weighing 200-260 g are formed 95-100 days after emergence. When fully ripe, the surface of a tomato is raspberry-pink. There is a yellowish spot near the stalk. The skin is dense, so the Ob domes F1 are distinguished by good shelf life and transportability. The pulp is fleshy, sugary, low in seeds. The fruits are suitable for fresh consumption and any processing, however, some tomato growers note that the tomato skin bursts during heat treatment.

The hybrid is resistant to most tomato diseases. It grows well and bears fruit even in unfavorable climatic conditions.

We think that from our selection you will be able to choose which tomatoes are best planted in a greenhouse or in open ground. If you still haven’t decided, then look at the entire rating and comments of the participants.

Tomatoes for different regions

Each region has its own climate and soil characteristics. Seed packages often indicate whether the variety is suitable for growing in a particular region or not. If this mark is missing, then you have to navigate by indirect signs: the height of the bush, the timing of ripening, the density of the fruit, and so on.

For the Moscow region and the middle zone

• Tomato Budenovka. Medium early, resistant to rainy and cool weather, produces fruits weighing up to 200-350 g.
• Brawler. Cold-resistant , low-growing, does not require garter, vegetable weight is 80-150 g.
• Dwarf. Low-growing variety resistant to late blight . Mid-season tomatoes weighing up to 60 g are used in pickles and salads.

For Krasnodar Territory and Rostov Region

• Tomato Vityaz. Slow-growing, low-growing determinate variety with red fruits weighing up to 120 g. Resistant to diseases caused by drought.
• Viscount. Mid-early, standard variety with pink, fleshy fruits weighing up to 200 g.
• Crimson giant. Early variety, determinate, raspberry-colored fruits, sugary, juicy. Suitable for salads and juices.
• Kubanets. Early, determinate, heat-resistant, fruits weighing 140-150 g are suitable for pickles.

For the Urals and Siberia

• Tomato Potato Raspberry. Large fruits weighing 600-800 g, cold-resistant, early ripening.
• Lord. The frost-resistant Novosibirsk variety forms a compact bush up to 50 cm high. Oval-shaped tomatoes grow up to 180 g and are used in salads and pickles .
• Siberian early ripening. Early ripening, determinate, dense tomatoes, store well .

For Belarus

• Tomato Excellent 176. Medium early, determinate, red tomatoes weighing up to 100 g.
• Emerald. Standard, green fruits, weighing up to 100g.
• Baby. Low-growing, early-ripening cherry variety.