Determinant of tomato diseases: photos, descriptions, control measures and prevention

In greenhouses and open ground, tomato bushes are often affected by diseases. Some of them carry pests, while others attack plants due to non-compliance with agricultural practices or the consequences of unfavorable weather.

Any of these reasons can have dire consequences for your crop. Therefore, it is so important to identify the disease in time and begin treatment. Of course, this is not so easy to do in the field, because many pathogens are perfectly camouflaged. But we hope that detailed descriptions and photographs will help you navigate.

Below we will look at the most common signs of fungal, viral, bacterial and some other diseases that can attack your beds. We will also present measures to combat them.

When using chemicals, remember that tomatoes can be eaten only 3-4 weeks after the last treatment.

Brown spots on leaves, stems and fruits of tomatoes

Brown necrosis with a light edge forms on the leaves and stems. A whitish coating is noticeable on the reverse side of the leaf blades in humid weather. The plant dries out. The inside of the fruits becomes covered with brown spots and rots.

Diagnosis: late blight of tomatoes is a fungal disease caused by microscopic fungi Phytophthora infestans.

The disease becomes more active in damp weather, and is especially dangerous in the second half of summer, when night temperatures become much lower than daytime readings. Fogs and dew also influence the development of the disease. At risk are tomatoes in open ground and film greenhouses without heating. After the leaves and stems are damaged, late blight spreads to the fruits and makes them unfit for consumption. If signs appear at the beginning of the growing season, complete loss of the crop is possible. The disease spreads very quickly, especially in humid weather.

Phytophthora also affects potatoes, eggplants, sweet peppers and other nightshades.

Control measures. To prevent the appearance of late blight, spray the plantings with Abiga-Peak, Consento, Revus or other fungicidal preparations. Repeat the treatment every 10 days. If the bushes are severely damaged, use Kuprolux or Famox fungicides. Just before ripening - biological products Fitosporin-M and Gamair. If the fruits begin to turn black, remove the remaining unripe tomatoes and place them in hot water (50°C) for a minute. Then dry and put in a box for ripening.

• Effective folk remedies for late blight on tomatoes and potatoes

  The fight against late blight is not an easy task. How to protect tomatoes and potatoes from this disease?

Causes of pathogenic microorganisms

Spores of pathogenic microorganisms, as well as insect larvae, can survive the harshest winter in unheated greenhouses. With the advent of comfortable conditions, both immediately begin their destructive activity for tomatoes.

Tomatoes in greenhouses can get sick, even if you completely replaced the soil before sowing. This happens if they took seedlings for growing, that is, they initially planted already diseased tomatoes.

No matter how tightly we close the greenhouses, insects still get inside and bring infection with them.

The danger of disease accompanies greenhouse tomatoes from the day the seeds are sown until the fruit is harvested. Treatment is complicated by the fact that flowering tomatoes cannot be treated with chemical protection agents. The flowering period is a favorable time for the proliferation of pathogens and parasitic insects. How many diseases there are can be seen from the photo.

Now you understand how important preventive measures are for tomatoes in a greenhouse.

Tomatoes in bloom can be treated for diseases using folk remedies. This is the addition of wood ash, dolomite flour or quicklime to the soil. In addition, if you water the soil with a milk solution, late blight will bypass the tomatoes. A very weak saline solution has a similar effect. Garlic infusion protects plants from fungal diseases. An infusion of onion peels provides the same effect.

When choosing tomatoes for growing in greenhouses, give preference to those varieties that are highly resistant to fungal diseases. Descriptions with photographs will help you understand tomato diseases and the fight against them.

Small spots on leaves, dark sunken spots on tomato fruits

Spots up to 1.5 cm in length are noticeable on the leaves and stems, sometimes with a black coating. Lesions most often form along the edges of the leaf. Then the spots increase in size and merge. The stems crack and the fruits become pitted with dark, dry spots.

Diagnosis : Alternaria blight, or dry spot, of tomatoes - a fungal disease.

Alternaria blight attacks plants immediately after planting tomato seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse. The fungus loves dry and hot weather, so it is especially dangerous for plants in glass greenhouses and film greenhouses. All parts of the bush are affected, and in the absence of treatment, yield losses amount to up to 85%. Fruits from infected bushes cannot be stored. The disease is easily transmitted to potatoes, and vice versa, so it is better not to plant them next to tomatoes.

Control measures . Spray the affected bushes with a 0.4-0.5% solution of Ordan. The following fungicides have also proven themselves in the fight against Alternaria: Profit Gold, Skor, OxyHOM, Proton. Carry out the treatment according to the instructions every 7-10 days until the signs of the disease disappear.

Pests of open ground

Springtails or springtails

Small, dark or light insects. They feed on tomatoes grown from seed in the early stages of development. Cotyledons are completely destroyed.

Colorado beetle

A very dangerous pest that threatens tomatoes and other plants of the nightshade family. Insects (yellow-black striped beetles and red grubs with black spots) feed on the leaves by eating them. Colorado beetles attack plants in May, immediately after planting seedlings.

Aphid

Small, colorful insects that live in colonies cause major losses in tomato crops. Aphids feed on leaves, flower buds, fruits and shoots, and suck juices. Affected leaves curl, become deformed, turn yellow and die. Aphids produce dew that covers many plant organs, and stick fungi grow on it. These non-parasitic fungi block the access of light and air to the leaves and contribute to the death of plants. Aphids are often carriers of viral diseases.

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Quarantine pest. This nocturnal butterfly feeds on plants only in the form of caterpillars. Adults do not pose a direct threat. The caterpillars are omnivorous, feeding on the above-ground parts of the tomato, gnawing holes. Plants become bare and die

Nematodes are root pests

Very serious pests when growing tomatoes. These are mainly root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne). Most tomato varieties are immune to 3 types of root-knot nematodes. Nematodes attack the roots, causing hardening. Infected plants are weakened in growth and produce lower yields. Removing nematodes is difficult. Recommended:

1. grow resistant varieties;
2. do not plant tomatoes in the same place for at least 3 years;
3. in the case of cultivation in greenhouses, thoroughly disinfect the soil.

In organic farming, it is worth planting marigold, which contains toxic compounds for nematodes.

Preventive measures will help protect tender shoots and ensure good yields: steaming the soil, frequent ventilation, spraying, and proper irrigation. If parasites appear, it is important to destroy them as soon as possible before the flowering phase begins.

Tomato pests and diseases lead to plant death and large crop losses. That is why it is very important to fight them, systematically control the cultivation of plants and quickly respond to the first alarming symptoms of diseases.

Round brown spots with dark edging on tomato leaves

Small watery spots appear on old and then young leaves. At first they are not very noticeable, but then they turn white and become covered with a brown edging. The rest of the leaf turns yellow and dries out. The fruits are small and flaccid. Young leaves at the top of the bush are rarely affected.

agroflora.ru

Diagnosis : septoria, or white spot, of tomatoes - a fungal disease.

Most often, the disease affects plants in open ground. Foci of septoria can also occur in a greenhouse with high humidity. The fungus spreads from the lower leaves and base of the stem higher and higher, damaging young leaves, shoots and flowers. As a result, the bush is forced to spend energy on restoring green mass, and not on setting fruits and their ripening. Fungal spores quickly spread throughout the garden bed. High humidity, heat, and windy weather contribute to the reproduction and dispersion of the pathogen.

Control measures . At the initial stage of infection, it is important to remove the affected leaves so that the spores are not scattered with the wind to other plants. If the bush is completely affected by septoria, it is better to dig up the plant and burn it. Fungicides Abiga-Pik, Ordan, Profi, etc. are suitable for treating tomatoes. Spraying with copper sulfate (50-100 g per 10 liters of water) is also effective.

Non-infectious (physiological) diseases

Apical rot

A physiological disease of tomatoes caused by a lack of calcium and water.

Fruit cracking

Falling of flowers and ovaries

Uneven coloring of fruits

Disturbances in the growth and development of tomato plants often lead to uneven coloring of the fruit. Regardless of unusual atmospheric and agrotechnical conditions, color disturbances can also be the result of various infectious diseases.

Effect of high temperature - burns

When the weather changes suddenly, there is a sudden temperature change. When heat sets in, the temperature at noon exceeds 30 °C, and in greenhouses with insufficient ventilation and shading it is 15 °C higher than outside. Under such conditions, almost all metabolic processes at the level of plant cells and tissues are disrupted. Substances necessary for growth do not reach the fruit in sufficient quantities.

The fruit does not color evenly because lycopene, which gives tomato fruit its red color, is not produced when temperatures exceed 32°C for several hours a day. Such a high temperature does not interfere with the formation of carotene and brick spots appear on the fruits. These symptoms usually occur when the fruit is near glass slides and not covered by leaves. Sometimes white spots may appear if the tissues of sun-heated fruits die due to exposure to too high a temperature.

Photo. Sunburn sometimes resembles the symptoms of dry rot in tomatoes, caused by a lack of calcium or water, with the difference that in dry rot the necrosis is brown and sometimes black. Darkening of part of the fruit occurs as a result of sunburn; the lack of lycopene synthesis causes the yellow color of the fruit.

Potassium deficiency

Uneven coloring is caused by potassium deficiency, the deficiency of which leads to inhibition of lycopene synthesis and a delay in the breakdown of chlorophyll in ripening fruits.

The following symptoms - green and yellow spots (pictured below) - increase with excess nitrogen and often occur at the base of the fruit.

Photo. Orange heel, caused by potassium deficiency, is sometimes accompanied by arched cracks resulting from the heel maturing later than the rest of the fruit.

Tomato fruits have an increased need for potassium - one plant consumes up to 25 g of this element during the growing season. The demand for potassium is greater in autumn when there is a lack of light (in November) than in summer. The potassium content in the leaves should be 4.5-7% of dry matter, and in December and November it can reach 8%. Too much potassium application to prevent uneven coloring of fruits sometimes reduces the yield by 10%.

Potassium deficiency is indicated by yellowing and browning of the edges of leaves, growth of clusters at an acute angle, which causes them to peel off and break off under the weight of the fruit. Tomatoes with potassium deficiency are less tasty due to the reduced content of sugars, acids, and dry substances.

The physiological abnormalities in fruit coloration described above may be confused with the effects of certain pathogens. Internal darkening can be caused by bacteria from the genus Erwinia, Bacillus and Aerobacter. Similar symptoms can also be caused by the mosaic virus.

Golden dots are a sign of excess calcium

Microscopic examination showed that in the place where golden dots appear - orange, glowing spots on tomato fruits - under the skin there are pulp cells filled with crystalline forms of calcium. This is a relatively recent problem in tomato production. One of its causes is excessive feeding with calcium or excessive absorption of this ingredient by plants.

Photo. “Golden dots” on tomatoes are a sign of excess calcium.

Stolbur

The main causes of the disease are high air and soil temperatures. To prevent disease, tomatoes should be shaded during the hottest hours of the day, choosing appropriate planting sites. Mulching moistened row spacing has a positive effect.

Yellowish spots on tomato leaves

First, the lower leaves become stained, then the disease spreads to the entire plant. The leaves dry out, curl and fall off, and hard olive-colored spots are visible on the fruits.

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Diagnosis : cladosporiosis, or brown spot, of tomatoes - a fungal disease.

The development of the disease is facilitated by growing in unheated and rarely ventilated greenhouses. Leaves are most often affected. Fruits, stems and ovaries are less likely to suffer. But since the plants lose their leaves, the harvest is very poor. And if the disease spreads to the fruits, they shrink and dry out.

Control measures . Treat the first lesions with Abiga-Peak, Sporobacterin or Pseudobacterin-2. During the summer, spray the bushes with a 0.05% solution of Fitosporin-M. For prevention, regularly remove old leaves and maintain the humidity in the greenhouse no higher than 80%.

Bacterial

Often, tomato diseases in a greenhouse are caused by bacteria. The culture is affected by infection in a short time. There is no way to save the harvest.

Black spot

Bacterial black spot affects all above-ground parts. The appearance of the tomatoes deteriorates. If the soil becomes infected, the entire seedling may die. Symptoms of this disease are convex 3 mm black dots with a watery edge. They gradually increase in size, begin to press inward, and the edges tear. The tomatoes under these spots rot.

Infected residues and untreated seeds lead to infection.

To avoid bacterial diseases, you need to use alternation; tomatoes can be planted in their original place after 2-3 years.

Cancer

The first signs are visible after the fruits form, the plant withers, the leaves and fruits become covered with spots. The vascular system of the plant is affected and becomes dark. Cancer is caused by contaminated seed and bacteria.

The fight is to disinfect the seeds. The temperature in the greenhouse should be about 25 degrees, and the humidity should not exceed 60%.

White coating on tomato leaves

The leaves on both sides are covered with a white coating. Round spots are located throughout the leaf blade, then merge and darken.

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Diagnosis : tomato powdery mildew is a fungal disease.

The development of the disease is facilitated by excess nitrogen fertilizers and errors in irrigation. Powdery mildew does not cause much damage to open ground tomatoes, but greenhouse tomatoes have a hard time. Photosynthesis processes are disrupted and leaves gradually die. With severe damage, the stems and peduncles turn white. The fungus weakens plant immunity and significantly reduces yield. If measures are not taken, the bush may die entirely. Many summer residents mistake the white coating for dust, but in fact it is the mycelium of the fungus, which grows very quickly and is transferred to other plants. It can also coat fruits, impairing their taste.

Control measures . When the first signs appear, treat the tomatoes with fungicides: Pseudobacterin-2, Sporobacterin, Topaz, Provisor, etc. For prevention, spray the beds with a 0.5% Baktofit solution. After two weeks, repeat the procedure. Carry out the third treatment 7-10 after the second.

Leaf mold

Most often, this disease manifests itself during the flowering of tomatoes. A signal of leaf mold is the appearance of light green spots on the upper surface of the leaves. If immediate action is not taken, these spots will soon turn yellowish-white. Then the affected leaves begin to turn yellow, curl into tubes and fall off.

To prevent the occurrence of this disease, disinfect greenhouses, and before each planting of tomatoes, change the top layer of soil to a depth of at least 30 cm. Ventilate the greenhouse well daily. Treat the seeds before planting.

If the disease does occur, then you can try to save the tomatoes using the drug “Zineb Suspension” or its analogues.

Dark sunken spots on tomato fruits

The fruits are covered with softened spots up to 1 cm in diameter. At first they are hardly noticeable and do not differ from the color of the skin. Then they darken and turn black. The fruits are completely mummified. Brown flaky spots are visible on the roots.

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Diagnosis : tomato anthracnose is a fungal disease.

Anthracnose is widely found both in open ground and in greenhouses. More often, mature bushes suffer from it. The peak of the disease occurs in late summer and early autumn. Mainly fruits, roots and root collars are affected. Ripe tomatoes cannot be eaten; they are watery and tasteless. The spots darken over time, and fungal spores become visible on them. Anthracnose often appears on bushes together with Alternaria, causing a mixed infection.

Control measures . Remove the affected fruits and spray the bushes with copper oxychloride (40 g per bucket of water) or 1% Bordeaux mixture. The latter can also be used to prevent disease. To do this, spray the plantings 3-4 times every 10-12 days. When the greenhouse is empty, completely disinfect it with bleach (200 g per 10 liters of water).

Yellow curl

The causative agent of yellow curl is the virus of the same name. It is carried by whiteflies and aphids. The sad thing is that this disease can occur at any stage of tomato development. Even a weak form of yellow curl entails a yield loss in the greenhouse of at least 15 percent. If the disease is not defeated in time, the entire crop will die.

Yellow curl is manifested by a change in leaf color from green to light yellow. In this case, light yellowness may cover only the edge of the leaf. The rest of it remains dark green.

The word “curly” is present in the name of the disease for a reason. The leaves on the tops of the affected tomato bushes actually become curly and decrease in size. Bushes affected by yellow curl grow very slowly, and flowers often fall from them. Worse, the resulting fruits stop gaining weight and remain small forever. Their flesh turns out to be excessively dense, and their shape is ribbed.

Necrotic spots on leaves and stems, white spots on tomato fruits

The stalks and petioles become covered with ulcers, the stems crack, and mucus is released from them. The leaves dry out and curl on one side, but do not fall off. The fruits are speckled with small hard spots. The plant is withering.

Diagnosis : bacterial canker of tomatoes is a disease caused by non-spore-bearing aerobic bacteria.

Cancer most often affects greenhouse tomatoes growing in conditions of high humidity and insufficient lighting. High temperature and waterlogged soil also influence the development of the disease. Crop losses can reach 30%.

Control measures . Affected plants cannot be treated. Dig them up and burn them. Treat the remaining tomatoes with 1% Bordeaux mixture to prevent infection. For prevention, use Fitosporin-M, Gamair, Fitolavin.

Macrosporiasis

Gardeners usually call this disease dry spotting. Macrosporiasis manifests itself by the appearance of oblong brown spots on the leaves, stalks, petioles and stems of the plant. Further spots appear on the surface of the fruit. Infection also occurs due to stale air in the greenhouse and high humidity. At low ambient temperatures, the disease begins to progress sharply.

At the first manifestations of foci of the disease, remove the affected parts from the bush and burn them. If a significant part of the bush is affected by such spots, then there is no point in saving the plant. Pull the bush out of the ground by the roots and burn it. Treat the soil in the greenhouse underneath with special preparations. However, Bordeaux mixture is quite suitable for this.

Tomato leaves are curled, yellowish in color, and have a white coating on the roots.

The lower leaves quickly die and the petioles become deformed. The tops of the bushes become limp. The vessels in the stems turn brown, metabolism is disrupted and the plant withers.

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Diagnosis : fusarium wilt of tomatoes - a fungal disease.

The disease is very dangerous because The fungus that causes fusarium is resistant to many chemicals. This makes diagnosis difficult. Many people confuse the disease with non-infectious chlorosis, which occurs from improper watering and fertilizing, or verticillium, which is also characterized by wilting. Meanwhile, it is the pronounced chlorosis in this case that excludes the disease with verticillium and, together with the signs described above, indicates the infectious origin of the disease.

Control measures . Treat the affected plants with working solutions of drugs: Bacterra, Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B or others. By the way, they can also be used to treat seeds before sowing. For prevention, after planting in the ground, water the tomatoes with Pseudobacterin-2.

Powdery mildew (ashtray, white)

According to the description, the disease destroys the immune system of tomatoes. Powdery mildew feeds exclusively on plant sap, thereby depriving them of nutrients. The first appearance is found on tomato leaves as a white coating - this can be seen in the photo. Affected leaves quickly wither and fall off.

At the same time, new leaves form on the stems from dormant buds, but they are extremely weakened. Without taking proper measures, the bush in the greenhouse soon loses its resistance to any diseases and dies. They get rid of powdery mildew mechanically, followed by treating the bushes with protective drugs.

The lower leaves of tomatoes dry out and fall off, the upper leaves curl

The leaves partially turn yellow, then necrotic spots appear on them, and the roots gradually die.

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Diagnosis : verticillium wilt, or verticillium wilt, of tomatoes - a fungal disease.

Until recently, verticillium was one of the most dangerous and widespread diseases of tomatoes. But today, many varieties and hybrids that are resistant to it have been bred, so infection occurs less and less often. Meanwhile, the fungus that causes wilting still lives in the soil and, under favorable conditions (low temperature and high humidity), infects plants. Young tomato bushes that have just begun to grow are especially affected.

Control measures . For treatment, use the drugs Previkur Energy, Trichocin, Trichoderma Veride. After picking, when the plants take root, feed them with the following mixture: 2 g of copper and zinc sulfate, 3 g of boric acid and 10 g of potassium permanganate per bucket of water. After 10 days, repeat the procedure. Carry out the third feeding after 20 days, and after another 30 days - the fourth. This will strengthen the immunity of tomatoes.

We fight fungi

Increased humidity leads to the development of diseases. To avoid fungal diseases of tomatoes, equip a polycarbonate greenhouse with a drip irrigation system. It minimizes the evaporation of moisture from the soil, thereby maximizing the level of air humidity inside the greenhouses.

There is a simple but quite effective way to create such an irrigation system. To do this, stick a regular plastic bottle with the neck into the ground under each bush and cut off the bottom. When watering, pour water into each bottle, and it will be used up very slowly. In fact, the top layer of soil may even remain dry.

An effective way to prevent late blight is to spray tomato bushes with whey weekly. The acid it contains kills fungal spores.

How to spray tomatoes against infection? You can use “Barrier”, “Fitosporin” or “Barrier”. All solutions are chemicals, so they should not be abused. Use them according to instructions.

Excessive use of fungicides on tomatoes will deplete the soil in the greenhouse. Even worse, the pulp of the fruit becomes saturated with harmful substances. It is highly undesirable to eat such tomatoes. It is for these reasons that many gardeners use only environmentally friendly means of preventing late blight - folk ones.

Of course, their effect is not as powerful as that of chemical ones. It often happens that you simply cannot do without chemistry. Then it is better to use phytosporin. This drug is the least harmful to the soil, but successfully copes with late blight, late blight, Alternaria, and black spot in the greenhouse. Moreover, phytosporin cannot be called a classical chemical drug; it is rather microbiological. It contains live bacteria that help strengthen plant immunity.

It turns out that when tomatoes are treated in a greenhouse with phytosporin, they themselves begin to fight fungal and other diseases. After spraying the bushes with fruits, you can enjoy them even the next day. This drug does not have a toxic effect on them. Of course, the tomatoes need to be washed thoroughly and only then served.

Fitosporin is produced in the form of a paste or powder. It can be used at any stage of tomato development.

By the way, the tomato variety for greenhouses “Tatyana” is resistant to late blight.

Watery spots on leaves, stems and fruits of tomatoes

The affected areas increase in size, then sporulation of the fungus in the form of brown dots becomes noticeable on them. The leaves turn yellow due to metabolic disorders. The plant withers and dies.

Diagnosis : gray rot of tomatoes is a fungal disease.

The fungus becomes active during the fruiting period in humid weather. The first signs of damage can be seen on the leaves. Small gray dots quickly become large, merge and become covered with plaque. The disease is especially dangerous for greenhouse tomatoes that grow in conditions of high humidity.

Control measures . If there are few lesions, immediately treat the plantings with this composition: add 1 cup of ash and 1 tsp to 10 liters of water. copper sulfate. The mixture is enough for 2-3 sq.m. If the disease is severe, spray the leaves and stems of tomatoes with Fitosporin-M, Sporobacterin, Bacterra, Trichocin or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Bacterial diseases of tomatoes in a greenhouse

These are one of the most dangerous types of tomato diseases, practically incurable and capable of quickly spreading throughout the greenhouse.

Tomato necrosis

The disease is caused by the bacterium Pseudomonascorrugata during the formation of tomatoes. More often found on tall indeterminate varieties of tomatoes growing in greenhouses. The first manifestations of the disease can be observed in the lower part of the stem, when depressed green sores appear there, which later begin to become covered with cracks and darken. The stem may begin to crack.

If at this moment you make a cross section of a tomato shoot, a white liquid will soon flow from inside. Leaves begin to wilt even with severe damage.

Infected tomatoes must be removed from the greenhouse as soon as possible and destroyed at a considerable distance from it. The soil in the greenhouse is disinfected using Fitolavin-300 solution. To do this, dilute 20 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water and water the soil, spending this amount per 2 square meters. m. area of ​​the heifer.

To prevent the disease, it is important to apply the same system of preventive measures as in the case of fungal diseases of tomatoes.

Black spot

Black bacterial spot of tomato, of course, cannot cause as much harm as late blight, but it is still worth considering the possibility of its manifestation and taking appropriate preventive measures.

This disease can affect all parts of tomatoes at any age. Black dots with a barely noticeable yellow border usually form on the leaves. The spots on the stems have a slightly elongated shape. On tomato fruits, black spots quickly develop into wet sores.

Pathogen bacteria can survive in seeds and plant debris for up to 1.5 years. Plants infected with bacteria must be destroyed without fail.

Experts recognize the drugs Fitolavin and Fitoplasmin as the only effective means for combating bacterial blight of tomatoes. They are used to water the soil in the greenhouse and plants before planting and after removing infected specimens.

You can try to find tomato varieties that are resistant to this disease, for example, Liana. And, of course, observe all the preventive measures described above, especially with regard to seed treatment.

Tomato cancer

Another unpleasant disease of bacterial origin, the symptoms of which are the wilting of tomato bushes with the simultaneous appearance of spots and sores on all above-ground parts of the tomatoes.

Wilting traditionally begins from the bottom of the bush. The stem also becomes covered with dark spots and cracks. When they rupture, they release a liquid in which bacteria live.

The disease can be controlled in greenhouses in the same way as black spot.

Light speckled spots and wrinkled areas on tomato leaves

The leaves are mottled in color, then become deformed and take on a thread-like shape. Leaf-like outgrowths appear on the lower part. The plant slows down in growth, cannot set fruit and soon dies.

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Diagnosis : tomato mosaic is a viral disease.

Mosaic causes enormous damage to tomatoes in open ground and greenhouses. Plants pick up the virus during an invasion of aphids, nematodes and thrips, which carry this disease, as well as when tissues are damaged by dirty garden tools. If a bush is infected at the beginning of development, its fruits will grow defective and unsuitable for food. Possible loss of half the harvest.

Control measures . Infected plants cannot be treated. To stop the spread of infection, dig them up and burn them. Treat the soil with Indigo, Bordeaux mixture or other fungicides. You can spray lightly affected bushes with a whey solution (100 ml per 1 liter of water) with the addition of Farmayod. For prevention, before sowing, treat the seeds in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

Pests of tomatoes in a greenhouse

Pests can cause no less harm to tomatoes in a greenhouse than infections, so their photos will help you recognize the enemy by sight and understand which remedy is best to use in a particular case.

Spider mite

This pest is so microscopic in size that you can only see traces of its activity. It sucks the juice from the leaves of tomatoes and entwines them with the finest web. Many small dots appear on the leaves, their surface turns pale, and soon they dry out and die.

Spider mites become especially active in hot and dry climates, so greenhouse conditions with infrequent ventilation and little watering become an ideal habitat for them.

To combat spider mites on tomatoes without using chemicals, you can spray with the following infusion. Add 200 g of garlic or onion peel to 1 liter of warm water, leave for 24 hours and filter.

Fitoverm is also safe for human health and an effective remedy against spider mites (1 ml per 1 liter of water).

Among other chemical protection agents, Actellik, Flumite, Neoron, Apollo, Omite are usually used, although in greenhouses it is better to use more gentle means.

Whitefly

A very common and unpleasant pest of tomatoes that can cause significant damage to the crop in greenhouses. After all, most chemical protection agents affect only adult insects, being powerless against their eggs and pupae.

They are very small butterflies that settle in large numbers on the underside of leaves. They feed on the plant juice of tomatoes. And their larvae secrete a sticky liquid that attracts sooty fungus. It is this that causes the final death of plants.

For small quantities, you can use mechanical traps in the form of yellow sticky tapes. But the pest multiplies very quickly. Therefore, it is necessary to start the fight as soon as possible.

Larvae and eggs are removed from the bottom of tomato leaves using a soap solution. For large pest infestations, insecticides must be used. The most harmless remedy is fitoverm, but it needs to be sprayed every 5 days to cope with emerging offspring.

It is also advisable to use Aktara, since it can simply be poured over the soil, which is a more gentle treatment for tomatoes.

Gnawing owl

Damage to tomatoes in a greenhouse is caused by gray, brown or black caterpillars of this butterfly, which gnaw leaves, petioles, stems and, most importantly, fruits, mainly at night. Therefore, it is very difficult to catch them.

Treatment of tomatoes with biological agents can save:

• arrow (50 g of powder per 10 liters of water);
• fitoverm;
• agravertine;
• spark-bio.

Treatment with the above agents in a greenhouse can be carried out even 48 hours before harvest.

Wireworm

Hard worms (larvae of click beetles) can eat away at the roots of tomatoes in a greenhouse so much that the plants will wither and die.

• It is most effective to sow the bed after harvesting with green manure (white mustard, rapeseed and sweet clover).
• You can also catch them using potato pieces. Half a potato is buried in the ground for several days and then dug up with the larvae already clinging to it.
• Freshly applied nitrogen fertilizers are poisonous to wireworms. Therefore, to slow down its reproduction, you can simply dig 20 g of ammonium sulfate per 1 square meter into the soil. m.
• They also use purchased drugs such as Bazudin, Provotox, Kapkan and Zemlin.

Root nematode

Another type of underground pest of microscopic size that feeds on the roots of tomatoes, forming swellings and growths on them.

The presence of nematodes in the soil can be determined by how the tomato bushes begin to wilt significantly during the daytime. While in the evening and at night the turgor of the leaves and stems is restored. But after 10-12 days, you can notice the roots of tomatoes of an unnaturally light color already on the surface of the soil.

To neutralize the pest, it helps to plant mustard, calendula and marigold plants nearby, and use green organic fertilizers. A Glyocladin tablet is added to the hole along with the tomato seedlings. This can save not only from nematodes, but also from fungal diseases.

In advanced cases, use Basamil, an organic fungal preparation. It is better not to use chemicals in private greenhouses; they have too strong a toxic effect, including on humans.

Medvedka

The mole cricket is one of the largest insects that lives underground. It can reach a length of 10 cm and, due to its omnivorous nature, can completely destroy tomato bushes.

It prefers moist soil well fertilized with manure.

Among the folk methods of controlling tomato pests in a greenhouse, the following technique is used. Find a hole in the ground and pour it in:

• water with the addition of washing powder as much as you can fit;
• infusion of hot pepper (150 g of chopped vegetable per 10 liters of water);
• infusion of table vinegar (2-3 glasses per 10 liters of water);
• onion waste is infused for 24 hours in a ratio of 1: 3 and then diluted in 5 parts of water.

You can also use purchased granules: Thunder, Medvetox, Grizzly, Force. They are buried at a depth of 10 cm so that pets cannot reach them.

Watery dark spots on the bottom of tomato fruits

First, barely noticeable watery spots appear at the base of the fruit (usually green or just beginning to ripen), which soon increase in size and acquire a brown tint. The fruits become dark by a third, wrinkle and turn black.

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Diagnosis : tomato blossom end rot is a physiological disease associated with violations of agricultural practices and genetic characteristics of plants.

The disease usually occurs due to improper watering or excessive foliage of plants. Rot is also caused by unbalanced feeding and the development of fruits, when nutrients (in particular calcium) do not have time to get to the top. This is especially true for large-fruited tomato varieties. Temperature changes can also affect the appearance of watery spots. Tomatoes are affected in greenhouses and open ground. Bushes weakened by disease bear fruit poorly. Rotting fruits harm plant immunity. As a result, up to 50-60% of the expected harvest may be lost.

Control measures . When the first signs appear, remove rotten fruits from the bushes and spray the leaves with a 0.2% solution of calcium chloride. Repeat the treatment two more times during the week. For prevention, treat the leaves and soil with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Among the drugs you can use Fitosporin-M, Gamair, Alirin-B. Do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer, and avoid applying fresh manure. During autumn digging, enrich the soil with calcium.

Fungal diseases of tomatoes in a greenhouse

Diseases of tomatoes in a greenhouse caused by fungi are very diverse, and many of them are much easier to cope with without treatment, but using preventive measures:

1. Treat tomato seeds before sowing in a solution of Fitosporin (1 tsp per 1 liter of water) or in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Several times during the entire period of growing tomato seedlings, water it with Trichodermin solution (20 g per 10 liters of water).
3. Before planting tomato seedlings in the greenhouse soil, it is treated with one of the biofungicides: phytosporin, Alirin-B, Gamair, Trichodermin.
4. Treatment with Immunocytophyte solution in tablets will strengthen the immune system of tomatoes. Spray the tomatoes three times: at the appearance of buds, the first and third fruit cluster.

Fusarium

A dangerous disease, which is caused by a fungus from the genus Fusarium, can be triggered by a number of factors:

• excessive moisture from nearby groundwater;
• changes in soil and air temperature;
• insufficient lighting, including in dense plantings;
• excess nitrogen and phosphorus content in greenhouse soils;

Attention!
The causative agent of the disease persists on seed material or in seedling soil. Therefore, it is imperative to disinfect tomato seeds of unknown origin and soil before sowing. Also, a fungus from the Fusarium genus can survive on plant debris for a long time. Therefore, they must be burned or treated with concentrated doses of biofungicides.

The mycelium of the fungus of this disease parasitizes the tissues of tomatoes and clogs the conducting vessels. The root system stops functioning, the leaves and stems wither and soon the tomato plants die.

Fusarium can be a very insidious disease, since its symptoms at different stages can be similar to a lack of nutrients or ordinary wilting of tomatoes for physiological reasons. It is important to see and distinguish the characteristic signs of this particular disease in time.

1. The disease develops from the lower tiers and goes upward. The old lower leaves of tomatoes are the first to suffer - they turn yellow, wither, and fall off. Then the same signs appear in the leaves of the next tier.
2. Sometimes signs of wilting may affect tomato plants on only one side.
3. The disease begins to develop only on tomatoes that form ovaries. If young tomato plants that have not entered fruiting begin to wilt, then most likely the wilting occurs for reasons other than Fusarium.
4. At the same time, you can observe drooping of the tops of the tomato, but the leaves remain green and do not turn yellow.
5. When cutting a wilted shoot or leaf of a tomato, damaged tissue of a reddish-brownish hue can be seen at the site of separation.

In hot weather, the symptoms of the disease in greenhouses only intensify, and when the air temperature drops below + 16 ° C, tomatoes can completely die in a very short time.

When obvious signs of fusarium blight appear, the fight against this tomato disease in a greenhouse is most often unjustified. The easiest way to remove infected tomatoes is to remove and burn them, and treat the soil around them with fungicides or replace them altogether. But if rare or especially valuable varieties of tomatoes grow in a greenhouse, then biological or chemical fungicides can be used to preserve them, as well as to save neighboring tomato bushes.

Among the biological products, the most effective for combating fusarium are:

1. Trichoderma Veride, for spraying, dilute 10 g in 10 liters of water, for watering - 30 g in 15 liters of water.
2. Trichodermin, both for watering and spraying, dissolve 20 g of the drug in 10 liters of water. Use for processing every 6-7 days.
3. Planriz can be used starting from the opening of the 3rd true leaf in a proportion of 1 g per 10 liters of water for irrigation.
4. Trichocin, Alirin-B, Gamair, Pseudobacterin-2 are also used in the fight against fusarium in greenhouses.

The use of chemicals can be an even more effective measure to combat this disease, but in the case of tomatoes in a greenhouse, it should be remembered that the treatment must be carried out at least 3 weeks before the possible ripening of the fruit.

The most effective systemic fungicides that can cope with the disease are:

• Fundazol (diseased plants are watered and sprayed with a solution prepared from 10 g of the drug diluted in 10 liters of water);
• Benorad (spray tomatoes with a solution of 5 g per 5 liters of water);
• Vectra (water and spray with a solution of 3 ml per 10 liters of water).

Among the tomato varieties with relatively high resistance to fusarium are Solnyshko, Karlson, Rusich, Syuzhet, as well as De Barao, Pink Giant, Lastochka, Meron F1, Orko F1, Kharisma F1, Belfast F1, Vologda, Alaska, Sanka.

Brown spot

The disease, otherwise called leaf mold or cladosporiosis, often occurs on tomatoes in conditions of excess humidity in greenhouses, as well as elevated temperatures. This disease is especially typical for film greenhouses. However, in the south cladosporiosis also occurs in open ground conditions. Most often, manifestations of the disease can be noticed during flowering and the formation of fruit ovaries.

Dark olive, slightly blurred spots first appear on tomato leaves. At the same time, on the reverse side you can notice a grayish coating of fungal colonies. Gradually, the spots begin to turn yellow and brown. Thanks to intensively reproducing fungi, the underside of the leaves becomes velvety to the touch due to the expanding coating.

As a result of the development of the disease, the leaves of the tomatoes begin to curl, become deformed and fall off. The process of photosynthesis stops and due to lack of oxygen, flowers and ovaries die. The tomatoes are dying. A particular danger is that fungal spores can easily be transferred to healthy plants and persist on clothing, in soil, and foliage for several years.

To prevent this disease, it is effective to use the microbiological preparations Zaslon or Barrier on tomatoes, spraying and watering them with an interval of 5-6 days.

If the development of the disease is already in full swing, it will be necessary to use chemicals containing copper and colloidal sulfur:

• Copper sulfate;
• ThiovitJet;
• Khom (30-40 g per 10 liters of water);
• Kusulus;
• Proton;
• Oksikhom.

After harvesting, the greenhouse must be completely disinfected. And next year, growing tomatoes in it is very undesirable.

There are several tomato hybrids that are resistant to brown spot: Sprut, Torbay, Premier.

Anthracnose

Although symptoms of this disease can appear on stems, leaves, roots and fruits, anthracnose is considered a disease of ripe and overripe tomatoes. The infection can also affect green fruits, but, unfortunately, the symptoms on them are almost invisible. They become obvious only when the tomatoes ripen. The causative agent of the disease, the fungus Colettotrchumcoccodes and phomoides, can penetrate tomato plants through any wounds and is especially active during periods of high humidity. Infection usually begins from the lower leaves of the tomato, although it does not appear in any way until the tomatoes ripen. Its spores spread easily when it rains.

The very first sign of anthracnose is the appearance of small, slightly pressed, round-shaped spots on tomatoes. Later they grow and acquire a yellow-brown tint. Many dark dots appear on them, and concentric circles appear on their outer side and increase in size.

Comment! Areas of damaged brown tissue also form on the roots of affected tomatoes.

It is quite difficult to determine anthracnose infection from tomato leaves, since it appears very rarely in the form of round spots with a yellow border.

The disease begins to spread most intensively in conditions when the leaves and fruits of tomatoes remain wet for a long time at a temperature of about + 24-27 ° C.

As preventive measures it is necessary:

1. Buy seeds that are free from infections or be sure to treat them before sowing in a solution with fungicides (Agate, Immunocytophyte).
2. Observe crop rotation, return tomatoes to their original place when growing no earlier than after 3 years.
3. Try to avoid overwatering, especially with sprinkling.
4. Remove weeds and tie up tomatoes to minimize their contact with the soil surface and other vegetation.
5. From the moment the first ovaries appear, regularly spray the tomatoes with fungicide solutions.

Due to the relatively low prevalence of the disease in Russia, no special means of protection against anthracnose have been registered. But experts recommend using conventional copper-containing fungicidal preparations for both treatment and prevention. Treatment with Strobi and Quadris for prevention is also considered effective, and the use of the drug Polyram for the treatment of tomato anthracnose.

Among the tomato varieties resistant to this disease are the hybrids Longf, Shelf, and Life.

Late blight

The most famous and one of the most harmful diseases for tomatoes. In open ground it is almost impossible to completely get rid of it, but in a greenhouse it is quite possible to fight it. Since it occurs with a simultaneous decrease in air temperature (sudden changes) and an increase in air and soil humidity.

In polycarbonate greenhouses, maintaining a low level of humidity is not so difficult, so it is quite possible to protect tomatoes from the invasion of late blight.

Manifestations of the disease are easiest to notice on tomato leaves. Small dark spots appear on them, which grow over time, and the leaves begin to dry out and fall off.

When the disease becomes active, spots can already be seen on the stems of tomatoes. Eventually, the tomatoes themselves become infected. They become covered with brownish-dark spots, soften, and an unpleasant putrid odor begins to emanate from them.

Attention! Since tomatoes are infected through the stalk, unpleasant symptoms may appear after the fruit is harvested and during storage.

In a greenhouse, it is easier to prevent the occurrence of late blight than to try to cure the disease. For prevention purposes, the following measures are used:

1. Tomato seedlings are regularly (once a week) treated with a solution of Fitosporin (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) or Alirin-B (1 tablet per 1 liter of water).
2. Immediately after planting toamt seedlings in a permanent place in the greenhouse, it must be sprayed with Fitosporin, Trichodermin, Alirin-B or Zaslon (3 caps per liter of water).
3. The treatment is repeated every week, using the preparations mentioned above or the environmentally friendly Barrier product (5 tbsp per 10 liters of water).
4. Folk remedies considered effective for the prevention of late blight are: garlic solution with potassium permanganate, whey with iodine.
5. Before placing unripe tomatoes for ripening, they are washed for 2-3 minutes under hot water.

The same means can be used when the first symptoms of late blight appear on tomatoes in a greenhouse to prevent its widespread spread. Be sure to remove all damaged leaves, especially the lower leaves, and maintain favorable climatic conditions in the greenhouse.

The following chemicals are considered effective for combating late blight:

• Oxychom (2 tablets dissolved in 10 liters of water);
• Ridomil Gold;
• Tattoo;
• Strobe;
• Quadris.

Important! Spraying with any fungicides should be carried out when the air temperature drops below + 15 ° C, since below this threshold the disease begins to develop rapidly.

There are no tomato varieties that are completely resistant to late blight. But it can be noted that some varieties are not so susceptible to this disease: Search, Kastalia, Semko-98, Stresa.

Root rot

One of the characteristic diseases of tomatoes in a greenhouse is root rot. There are several varieties of it.

Infection with root rot most often occurs through the soil, which is why signs of the disease are often detected after planting tomato seedlings in the greenhouse soil. The leaves fade quite quickly, and the root collar begins to rot. Cucumber plants also suffer from the same scourge, which is why experienced gardeners never combine tomatoes and cucumbers in the same planting. And they try not to plant one crop directly after another.

The best way to combat the disease is to preventively treat the soil with a solution of copper sulfate. It’s even better if you can remove the layer of soil in which the discovered diseased tomato plants grew and replace it with fresh one. Before planting tomato seedlings, it is also a good idea to treat the soil with Barrier or Barrier.

Alternaria blight

Unlike other diseases, Alternaria can affect tomatoes in a greenhouse at various stages of development, including seedlings. Although the disease manifests itself most violently at the beginning of the fruiting period.

Alternaria has many similar names: macrosporiosis, brown spot or dry spot. All parts of tomatoes can be affected. But the first symptoms of the disease are found on the leaves at the bottom of the bushes. These are small concentric spots, about 5-6 mm in diameter, brown in color. Over time, they increase in size and spread to the upper leaves and stems. When they merge, the tomato leaves begin to gradually die.

On fruits, the manifestations of the disease are usually not so noticeable, and dark, slightly depressed spots can be seen on them in the area of ​​the stalk. If there is high humidity in the greenhouse during this period, the disease will accelerate its development and the spots will become covered with a velvety coating in the form of fungal spores. The spores find the slightest damage in the tissues of tomatoes and penetrate into the plants.

The following tomato varieties and hybrids resist infection with Alternaria well:

• Sanka;
• Golden Bullet;
• Liana;
• Hope;
• Alex;
• Aurora;
• Ray.

Preventive measures are similar to those used to combat other fungal diseases. Of the fungicides, they do a good job of resisting Alternaria: Acrobat, Metaxil, Quadris, Thanos, Fital, Kuproxat, Ditan.

Wilting of seedlings

Tomato seedlings, especially in the early stages of development, are often affected by the so-called “black leg”. The leaves begin to fade. In this case, the stem is affected almost at the very base in the root zone, turns black, and the entire plant quickly dies. The source of infection is in the soil, so it is very important to disinfect the soil before sowing tomato seeds. Thickening when sowing seeds and too much humidity at low temperatures contribute to the spread of the disease. Therefore, it is better to slightly dry tomato seedlings before the first true leaves appear rather than overwater them.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew most often affects tomatoes in open ground. But if the infection gets into the greenhouse, it is much more difficult to get rid of it.

The main danger of this disease is that it reduces the immune properties of plants, takes away nutrients, and makes tomatoes unstable to any unfavorable environmental conditions.

Symptoms appear mainly on the leaves, where whole areas of whitish color appear. As the disease progresses, light-colored powdery masses can be seen on both sides of the leaf. The affected areas turn yellow and die. The stems and fruits of tomatoes remain without signs of disease. But even if new leaves develop in place of the fallen leaves, they cannot be called full-fledged and they will not help the tomatoes form a good harvest.

Provokes the appearance of powdery mildew on tomatoes:

• increased nitrogen content in soils;
• violations in the irrigation regime;
• planting too thick.

In greenhouses, to protect against the spread of powdery mildew, it is especially important to carry out regular ventilation, observe crop rotation, and loosen or mulch the soil. Preventive treatments with drugs such as Epin, Humate, Raek will also help.

Chemical means of protection against this disease can only be used in cases of particularly severe damage to tomatoes. The most effective fungicides are: Quadris, Skor, Topaz, Tiovit Jet, Amistar.

White and yellow stripes on tomato fruits, purple leaves and stems

The fruits are woody and tasteless, covered inside with a white network of vessels. The leaves are curled, have an unnatural color, and become smaller over time. Stamens and pistils in flowers are underdeveloped. The roots are covered with cracks. The plant is stunted in growth.

Diagnosis : mycoplasmosis, or stolbur, of tomatoes is an infectious disease caused by mycoplasmas, tiny bacteria that live in the vessels of plants.

Stolbur most often affects plants in open ground. The peak of the disease usually occurs at the end of August. The disease is carried by sucking insects, in particular the leafhopper (slobbering frog), a dangerous garden pest. The risk of infection with stolbur increases in hot and dry weather, when insects actively reproduce. The infection can also enter the soil through infected seeds and seedlings.

Control measures . Infected bushes need to be dug up, because... they cannot be treated. To prevent re-infestation, weeds must be controlled. You can also spray plantings against leafhoppers with Kinmiks or Aktara. Dusting plants with wood ash (30 g per bush) will also help.

Prevention of tomato diseases

Timely preventive measures will help you protect plants from pathogens:

• plant disease-resistant tomato varieties;
• before sowing seeds for seedlings, treat them in a solution of Fitolavin or Maxim Dachnik;
• disinfect garden tools;
• disinfect the soil using Trichoderma Veride, Trichocin, Fitosporin-M and other biological products; a solution of potassium permanganate is also suitable;
• discard weak and diseased plants;
• observe crop rotation;
• increase plant immunity with a double dose of potassium fertilizers;
• follow the watering and fertilizing regime;
• regulate the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse (the norm is no higher than 32°C and 80%);
• destroy pests and weed;
• Clean the greenhouse at the end of the season, remove plant debris and dig up the soil.

To ensure that the tomato harvest increases every year, monitor the health of the plants and take timely measures to combat major diseases. Also read about how to identify and treat diseases of cucumbers, peppers and zucchini.

Measures to prevent diseases

An experienced summer resident knows that it is better to prevent any disease than to treat it.

1. If the farming and cultivation area is susceptible to any infection or, due to climatic conditions, tomatoes are prone to spoilage and rotting, attention should be paid to prevention even at the stage of planting seeds. Disinfection of selected seeds before planting is carried out with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate and a solution of “Fitolavin”. Dilute 2 ml of the drug in 100 ml and soak the seeds for 1 hour.
2. Pay attention to the choice of seeds with resistance to fungi, viruses and bacteria.
3. The proximity in the garden beds is of great importance. Potatoes are more susceptible to various diseases, and they themselves are often a source of infection for other crops. Tomatoes are not planted near peppers and eggplants due to the similarity of diseases.
4. Regularity and proper care of tomatoes is paramount:
   daily ventilation of greenhouses;
5. moderate moisture, without waterlogging;
6. correct stepsoning;
7. infrequent planting of tomatoes;
8. timely weeding;
9. destruction of last year's surface humus;
10. soil disinfection in autumn and spring before planting: 1% potassium permanganate or a solution based on “Baikal-EM”.
11. Garden tools are periodically disinfected, for example, with Ecocid-S. Dilute 50 g of the product in 5 liters of warm water and spray all garden tools completely.
12. Do not forget about fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus, spraying with immunomodulators. This increases the immunity of the bushes.

Prevention of tomato diseases

A prerequisite is preventive measures, which must be regular.

Prevention measures

Even if the season passed without problems and not a single plant got sick, it is recommended to replace the soil or thoroughly calcinate the existing soil by the next planting time.

Folk recipes

They are used to prevent diseases and to ensure the growth of tomato ovaries.

Boric acid

Boric acid is effective in the fight against late blight, enhances flowering, and promotes the formation of ovaries. To prepare an “anti-phytophthora” solution, ½ teaspoon (without top) of powder is first dissolved in a glass of hot liquid, then this concentrate is added to a container with 10 liters of water. To prevent the ovaries from shedding, 1 g of boric acid is stirred in 1 liter of hot water, and this product is used after cooling.

Calcium chloride

Calcium chloride is used for the prevention and treatment of late blight at the initial stage of the disease. This substance improves the growth of tomatoes and has a positive effect on their productivity. Calcium chloride is part of complex plant treatment along with fungicides and copper preparations. Pharmacy ampoules are used as follows: 10 pieces are diluted in 10 liters of water, then 300 g of wood ash are added, as well as 40 g of grated laundry soap. The last component ensures that the solution sticks to the tomato leaves.

Superphosphate

This complex fertilizer can provide tomatoes with ideal, balanced nutrition. It contains nitrogen (8-17%), sulfur (5-10%) and phosphorus (25-55%). The proportions depend on the purpose, type of vegetable crop and fertilizer manufacturer.

Spraying plants with a superphosphate solution can be started at any time: such nutrition is equally beneficial for both seedlings and adult bushes. For the former, fertilizer will improve seed germination, stimulate the development of a healthy root system and guarantee rapid growth of green mass. The complex is also a benefit for adult plants: it will allow you to get a large harvest and improve the shape, size and color of the fruit.

Superphosphate is used for both types of feeding. To spray tomatoes, use the following recipe: stir one tablespoon of superphosphate in a liter of hot water. After preparation, the solution is kept for 24 hours, and only then the above-ground parts of the plants are treated with it.

Other effective folk remedies

This small list can and should be continued.

1. Rotted straw and urea. This remedy will help cope with late blight. One kilogram of straw is poured into 10 liters of water, then 2 tablespoons of urea are added. The “medicine” is left for several days (3-4), then filtered and irrigated the plants. This infusion can be used for prevention.
2. Ash. This powder is used as root and foliar feeding of tomatoes. In this case, they also make an infusion. 200-300 g of ash are diluted in 10 liters of warm water, then the container is left alone for 2 weeks, then the liquid is strained and used.
3. Milk and urea. This is an unusual “duet” that is used to rid plants of tomato mosaics. Milk (only natural, not pasteurized) is diluted with water (1:10), then a teaspoon of urea is added.
4. Iodine. To prepare the preparation for spraying, 2 ml of liquid is stirred in 10 liters of water. The solution is intended to combat late blight and for prevention.
5. Hydrogen peroxide is used to disinfect foliage, and it can also improve oxygen access to tissues. 30 ml of peroxide is stirred in 2 liters of water.
6. Calcium nitrate. This fertilizer is used to treat blossom end rot. One tablespoon of saltpeter is stirred in 10 liters of water.
7. Potassium permanganate. To spray tomatoes, use a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The soil is treated with the same product.
8. Zelenka. This liquid is used to protect against late blight. 3 ml of brilliant green is dissolved in 10 liters of water.
9. Furacilin is another remedy for the prevention and treatment of late blight. 10 tablets are dissolved in 10 liters of water.

To improve nutrition and protect tomatoes from pests and various pathologies, a large and varied range of “common-ordinary” products are used. Plants are sprayed with diluted yeast (100 g per 10 l), solutions with soda (3 tbsp per 10 l), salt (250 g per 10 l), vinegar (100 mm per 10 l), diluted kefir or whey ( 1 l per 9 l).

Tomato care

The first treatment of tomatoes in the greenhouse takes place 2 weeks after planting. To do this, use a solution of mullein. To prepare the nutritional mixture you need to mix:

• 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska;
• 0.5 l mullein;
• 10 liters of water.

Tomatoes are watered with this mixture at the rate of a liter of liquid per plant. The next feeding is carried out no earlier than 10 days later. To prepare solutions, you can use potassium sulfate and ready-made combined mixtures of microelements. The amount of ingredients is measured according to the instructions.

Caring for tomatoes involves not only regular feeding, but also timely watering of seedlings. In this matter, you need to know when to stop, since too much moisture can have a bad effect on the condition of the plants. Stagnation of water in the soil will contribute to the appearance of fungal diseases and rot. Experienced gardeners have noticed that it is necessary to water tomatoes no more than once every 5 days. Many people make the mistake of watering tomato seedlings too often after planting them in greenhouse soil.

Advice! It is not advisable to water tomatoes for the first 10 days.

First of all, they must get used to the new place and take root well.

Attention! The water temperature for watering tomatoes should be at least 20 °C.

You should also consider the growth stages of tomatoes. Before seedlings begin to flower, about 5 liters of water per 1 m2 is enough. When tomatoes begin to bloom, they will need a lot more liquid. At this time, the volumes are increased to 10 liters. Better results can be achieved if you water the tomatoes in the morning, or at least in the evening. It is also necessary to maintain the correct temperature in the greenhouse. In warm weather, the air temperature in the greenhouse should be at least 20 °C, and in cloudy weather no more than 19 °C. Sudden jumps should not be allowed at night. At this time the normal temperature is around 16–18 °C. This temperature regime is acceptable for tomatoes until they begin to bloom.

After the tomatoes begin to bloom, the temperature in the greenhouse should increase significantly and be at least 25–30 °C. At night, peaks up to 16 °C are allowed. The next change in temperature occurs after the first fruits begin to ripen. During this period, tomatoes need about 17 °C. This temperature is perfect for tomatoes to ripen.

An equally important stage in caring for tomatoes is pinching. It will not be possible to carry out this procedure one-time, since young stepsons will appear during the entire growing season.

Advice! About 5 brushes should be left on the bush, all the rest must be removed.

4 weeks before the end of the growing season, you will need to remove the tops of the plants. And immediately after the tomatoes begin to turn red, all lower leaves should be removed. Such procedures are also carried out in the morning. It is also important to remember that pathogens of various diseases may remain in last year’s soil. To prevent their occurrence, the soil in the greenhouse should be changed to a new one every spring.

Useful tips

An effective method against many pathogens is treating the soil with copper sulfate, Fitolavin or a solution of potassium permanganate.

Another risk factor for disease is the proximity of plants. For example, potatoes are often infected with various diseases and also actively transmit them. In the same way, peppers and eggplants should not be planted next to tomatoes. It is also important to choose quality seeds and seedlings.

If you discover a disease and its source, do not overdo it with chemicals. We have learned from our own experience that it is better to sacrifice a couple of plants than to grow a crop full of chemicals. And we advise you to adhere to this rule.

Stem necrosis

Tomatoes and potatoes suffer from this bacterial disease. The disease occurs at the beginning of fruiting. Pseudomonas, the causative agent of the disease, is spread by seeds. Subsequently, the bacteria are transferred to other bushes - with streams of irrigation water, even with the help of the wind.

Stem necrosis is an insidious disease, since it does not manifest itself for a long time. It is known for certain that the incubation period lasts 18 days. The first symptoms of the disease are found on the tallest bushes at the time of the birth of the first cluster.

An elongated, slightly depressed brown spot appears on the lower part of the stem, under which bacteria rapidly multiply in the tissues of the stem. Under pressure from a growing colony of microbes, the stem cracks and a cream-colored liquid flows out of it. This substance is full of pathogenic bacteria.

If you cut the stem of an affected plant lengthwise, you will see that its core seems to have become glassy. Subsequently, it dries completely and becomes almost black. It is amazing that fruit development continues on the affected bushes. Light veins appear on their surface, which do not disappear after full ripening. If you shake a bush affected by stem necrosis, the tomatoes or flowers will begin to fall off.

The tricky part of the disease is that the infection persists in the tomato seeds. True, affected seeds can be easily distinguished from healthy ones by their deformation and the presence of dark spots. Burn such seeds. Affected fruits should not be eaten!

If treatment is not started, the tops of diseased bushes will begin to darken and lose turgor. Soon the entire bush will wither and die.

How to get rid of frizz?

Let’s say right away that it is impossible to cure a bush affected by yellow curl. It needs to be removed. But it is quite possible to protect the greenhouse from this disease. You probably already guessed that you should take preventive measures against whiteflies and aphids, which are the ones that transmit the yellow curl virus. Main -

immediately destroy these parasites upon first detection. To do this, you should use the drugs “Aktara”, “Iskra” or “Aktellik”.

You must clearly understand that you need to ventilate the greenhouse daily and never allow the air humidity to rise to 80%. Higher humidity will definitely lead to diseases.

Perhaps it is worth mentioning a wonderful remedy for combating whiteflies - “Farmayod”. The bushes should be treated with this product at intervals of 10 days during the butterfly flight.

It is noteworthy that ground tomatoes are practically not susceptible to yellow curl, but greenhouse tomatoes are the opposite.