Late blight on tomatoes: signs and causes of appearance, methods of treatment

What is late blight?

Late blight or late blight is a common fungal disease that affects about fifty garden crops. Tomatoes suffer more than other vegetables. The fungus spreads by spores and is capable of quickly and en masse infecting tomato plantations. A couple of days are enough for all the bushes to be infected.

The fungus attacks the fruits and leaves of bushes, which leads to a significant reduction in yield. For the time being, the pathogen hides in the ground. It becomes active only in the second half of July, when summer nights become damper and cooler.

Tomato varieties that are not afraid of late blight

There are no varieties yet that show complete resistance to this harmful disease. But some, early ripening ones, manage to harvest before a mass outbreak of the disease. And there are so-called blight-resistant varieties, most often these are new-generation hybrids, which, with proper agricultural technology, rarely become infected with fungus, even if diseased bushes grow nearby. The list is as follows:

White filling
Blizzard
Kostroma
Siberian early ripening
Budenovka
Oak
Pink dwarf
Harvest
Dubrava
All types of De Barao
Cold resistant
Tarasenko hybrids
Solar
Cameo
Pepper-shaped
Etoile
Berry
Combitomat
Ballad
Masterpiece 1
Liana
Ephemera
Vladimir Vysotsky
Yablonka Russia
Sprint Timer, etc.

Hybrids and hybrid varieties

Lark F1
Chimgan F1
Cupero F1
Black bunch F1
Zhenaros F1
Honey drop F1

How does the disease manifest itself on tomatoes?

The presence of late blight on plants can be guessed by the characteristic symptoms. True, when signs of the disease appear, crop losses cannot be avoided.

Symptoms of late blight:

the fruits are covered with black or gray-brown spots;
later, the affected fruits rot and emit an unpleasant odor;
Dark spots first appear on the leaves, then they dry out and fall off;
brown spots appear on the stems;
during rain, the leaves of bushes affected by late blight become shiny and oily;
Tomato flowers become dark, dry out and fall off.

Biological features of late blight

The causative agent of late blight on tomatoes is a fungus belonging to the genus Late blight. More precisely, an oomycete is a mycelial organism that is very similar in structure to mushrooms, but has a number of differences. It is believed that oomycetes appeared on Earth earlier than fungi and they can theoretically be classified as a special group.

This microorganism is called Phytophthora infestans. It can infect both tomatoes and potatoes, eggplants, sweet and bitter peppers. His homeland is Mexico. Gradually it spread throughout the world. Now cases of late blight are regularly recorded in different countries, in all corners of the Earth. Its other varieties are dangerous for grain crops and grasses. They also significantly harm the agricultural industry. Late blight infestan is dangerous due to its speed of spread, as well as its resistance to negative environmental factors.

Spores can remain in the ground for several years, withstand frost and heat, and drought. They can live in compost, on rotten logs, and not only on garden crops. They can contaminate garden tools. As soon as environmental conditions change and become favorable again, plant infection occurs.

The main differences from the simplest mushrooms:

cell membranes are not covered with chitin, as is the case with fungi, but with cellulose - that is, they are less resistant to mechanical damage;
the vultures are not separated by partitions and are a simpler substructure;
the population cannot develop outside the host cells.

This makes them more vulnerable at first glance. In fact, the opposite is true. If tomatoes harvested in August and hidden in the cellar for a couple of days were infected with them, the entire crop stored for storage may soon become covered with putrefactive spots. The same goes for potatoes. In the tubers of this crop they can remain unnoticed for a long time.

Favorable environmental conditions for the development of late blight infestan are: rains for several days in a row;

dampness;
windy weather;
cold snap.

It is necessary to inspect the plants in this case. Of course, not every season the disease reminds itself. But one day you will probably have to fight him. This is inevitable if crops grow on the site, the juice of which is liked by this mushroom. All nightshades, very popular and sought-after crops in gardening, are in danger.

Reasons for appearance

The main factor favoring the appearance of late blight is high humidity. If it rains in the summer, late blight begins to spread rapidly. This is a “mass destruction” disease; it affects almost all tomato bushes, leading to very large crop losses.

Other reasons for the spread of late blight:

dense plantings and poor ventilation;
planting next to potatoes - most often they are the first to become infected with late blight;
significant discrepancy between day and night temperatures;
heavy morning dew;
low daytime temperatures;
excessive watering in the second half of summer;
irrigation by sprinkling;
nitrogen overdose;
excess lime in the soil;
lack of manganese, iodine, copper, potassium in the soil.

The fungus that causes late blight can spread by wind, water, and through garden tools.

Description

The name of the fungus “phytophthora” translated means “destroying plants.” The disease can affect an entire plant in just 3 days, and the entire planting on the site in 1.5–2 weeks. In the case of tomatoes, the disease is very dangerous because it affects the plant during the period of fruit ripening, when it is impossible to fight it.

Phytophthora may contain:

on seeds
in the ground
on gardening tools
plant remains
in the material from which the greenhouse or greenhouse is made

Most often, manifestations of late blight become noticeable on tomatoes in late July - early August. This period is characterized by hot days and cold nights.

Late blight on leaves

The infection is transmitted mainly from potatoes. Fungal spores overwinter in the soil of a potato field or in tubers.

Favorable conditions for the active life of a unicellular microorganism:

high air humidity
low temperature
soil with high lime content
unthinned planting where fresh air does not circulate well
sudden temperature changes
morning dew and frequent fogs
weakened plants, in the care of which the rules of agricultural technology are not followed

Treatment with chemicals

Chemicals are highly effective and are usually used when signs of the disease appear. Their disadvantage is toxicity and the ability to accumulate in soil and fruits.

Fitosporin

This is a biofungicide with antifungal and antibacterial effects. The drug contains Bacillus subtilis, a natural enemy of the pathogen late blight.

Effect of using Fitosporin:

inhibits the spread of late blight;
helps improve soil condition;
the treated leaves and shoots are covered with a protective film that prevents damage by bacteria and fungi.

The drug can be used at different stages - during seed treatment, when transplanting seedlings, during the period of damage. Fitosporin solution is used to treat not only tomato plantations, but also the soil in tomato rows, garden tools, and dry tops collected for placement in a compost pit.

How to use Fitosporin:

after the first treatment, repeat spraying is carried out - about a week later;
It is recommended to water the soil with Fitosporin solution once a month;
For prevention, foliage is sprayed if unfavorable weather conditions arise.

Dosage for spraying – 3 tsp. on a bucket of water. For better adhesion, it is recommended to add 1 tbsp to the solution. l. liquid soap.

Hom

The drug HOM is a fungicide based on copper oxychloride. It is a light green powdery product that is insoluble in water. HOM is part of many combined fungicides - Ordan, Kuprolux, Homoxil and others.

The drug has a preventive and protective effect. It protects plants from fungus from the moment spores germinate until the symptoms of late blight appear. If signs of disease appear on the bushes, spraying with HOM will no longer be enough; a systemic fungicide is additionally needed.

Features of using HOM:

The drug is effective until the disease appears. If the leaves begin to turn brown, it is too late to apply HOM.
It is allowed to use HOM no more than 4 times during the season.
An interval of 10 days should be observed between sprayings. This frequency is justified when there is a high risk of infection and during rainy summers.

How to prepare and use HOM solution:

Dilute 40 g of dry drug or 50 g of suspension in 1 liter of water.
Mix thoroughly and bring the volume to 10 liters.
Spray the bushes with the prepared mixture - 1-1.5 liters for every 10 square meters. m of tomato plantation.
You need to spray the leaves not only from above, but also from below.

The HOM solution should not flow from the bushes into the soil. This can trigger the suppression of beneficial soil fauna, such as earthworms.

HOM is cheap, non-phytotoxic and does not accumulate in fruits and soil. The disadvantages of the drug include a short period of protection, washing off by rain and a large amount of solution that must be prepared for treatment. HOM provokes corrosion of metal products.

Ordan

The powdered domestic drug Ordan is used for the treatment and prevention of late blight and other fungal diseases. Contains copper oxychloride and cymoxanil. The first component has an external effect, the second - internal.

Ordan inhibits and destroys various pathogens, heals infected areas, and has a complex effect. Pathogens do not have resistance to this drug. Ordan is low toxic and is completely removed from the soil during the season.

Features of using Ordan:

the drug is used at all stages of tomato development, except flowering - so as not to poison the bees;
the treatment is not carried out in sunny weather so as not to cause burns;
It is prohibited to treat wet plants;
the maximum number of sprayings per season is 2-3;
Consumption rate in open ground is 80 ml of working solution per 1 sq. m.

How to prepare and use Ordan's solution:

Dilute 50 g of powder in a bucket of water.
Spray the leaves and stems on the day you prepare the solution.

Ridomil Gold

This systemic contact fungicide is made in Switzerland. Contains two active ingredients - mancozeb and mefenoxam, respectively, for external and internal protection. The drug affects a wide range of pathogens and does not allow relapses. It is effective in advanced stages, does not burn, does not freeze, and does not precipitate.

Cons of Ridomil Gold:

expensive;
toxic;
high consumption per 1 sq. m;
accumulates in the ground;
kills beneficial fungi in the soil.

How to prepare and use the solution:

Dilute 50 g of powder in 5 liters of water.
Mix thoroughly.
Add up to 10 liters and spray the beds in the morning - if there is no dew, or in the evening.
Use the prepared solution within 2-3 hours.

Thanos

Thanos is a contact-systemic fungicide intended for the prevention and treatment of fungal diseases. Contains two active ingredients - cymoxanil and famoxadone. The first substance has a triple effect - it treats, prevents and protects, the second - kills fungal spores.

Water-soluble granules do not freeze or crystallize, do not generate dust and are perfectly soluble in water. The drug has a wide spectrum of action, in addition to late blight, it saves tomatoes from phomosis, mildew, various rots and other diseases.

Advantages of Thanos:

combined action;
does not accumulate in fruits and soil;
economical;
fast-acting;
convenient release form.

Thanos has no flaws. The main thing is to follow the dosage and act according to the instructions.

How to prepare the solution:

dissolve the drug according to the dosage indicated on the package;
Pour the mixture into the sprayer tank and add water.

The protection is effective for two weeks. During the season, the drug is used up to 4 times. The minimum intervals between treatments are 15 days. The first spraying is recommended 2 weeks after planting the seedlings.

How to prevent relapses of late blight

The following recommendations will help you avoid re-infection with a fungal disease:

observe crop rotation (change plots every 4-5 years);
avoid crowding of plants;
tear off the lower leaves of tomatoes before the first ovary for better ventilation and more light flow;
do not create a compost heap in the garden;
remove nightshade tops from the site and destroy them;
water the plants strictly at the roots;
when growing indoors, ventilate the greenhouse;
Do not use fresh manure as fertilizer.

After planting in a permanent place, it is recommended to treat with biological fungicides for preventive purposes. Fitosporin M for tomatoes has proven itself to be such a product.

Traditional methods against late blight

Fans of natural farming successfully replace chemicals with various folk remedies. Their plus is absolute harmlessness to humans, the minus is the need for regular treatments.

Here are some of them:

Salt. The salt solution, falling on the aboveground parts of the plant, covers them with a thin protective layer that prevents the penetration of fungi into the plant tissue. Saline solution is a prophylactic agent that provides only external protection to the plant. Prepare a solution by diluting 250 g of salt in 10 liters of water.
Soda. 1 tbsp. l. dissolve baking soda in a bucket of water. To prevent the solution from dripping from the leaves onto the ground, add liquid soap to it - 1-2 tbsp. l. Thanks to the detergent, the composition will “stick” to the leaves and shoots. Spraying is carried out with a frequency of 1 week, and also after each rain.
Kefir or whey. This method is based on the ability of lactic acid bacteria to suppress fungus and other pathogenic flora. Used for preventive and therapeutic purposes. Dilute whey/kefir in water in a ratio of 1:1/1:10. If you don't have kefir, you can replace it with milk. For 1 liter of milk you need to add 20 drops of iodine and dilute it in the same way as kefir. Milk processing can be done daily.
Ash. Dissolve 5 kg of wood ash in a bucket of water. Leave for 3 days, stirring the ash solution from time to time. Bring the volume to 30 liters, pour in a couple of tablespoons of liquid soap and spray the tomatoes every week.
Hay. The method is based on the ability of Bacillus subtilis to prevent the development of the pathogen. Take 1 kg of rotted hay and fill it with a bucket of warm water. Add 100 g of urea and leave for 3 days.
Hot water. The advantage of the method is its low cost. Bring the water to a boil, cool slightly and pour it into a watering can with a rainfall attachment. Water the soil with hot water so that the water does not get on the plants. Watering frequency – 1 time per week.
Yeast. They are used as follows: dilute 100 g of yeast in 10 liters of warm water. Leave for 1-2 days and spray the bushes.
Vinegar. Dilute 1/2 cup of 9% vinegar in 10 liters of water. Spray the entire above-ground part of the tomatoes. Alternate treatment with vinegar with other folk remedies.
Garlic tincture. Garlic tincture is universal; it simultaneously repels pests and protects plants from bacteria and fungi. Grind the garlic arrows and heads in a meat grinder. Pour 1.5 cups of raw material into a bucket of water and leave for 24 hours. Spray tomatoes once every six months.

How to treat tomatoes against late blight in a greenhouse before the onset of the disease

In order not to be tormented by the question of how to get rid of late blight in a greenhouse, it is worth carrying out preventive treatments in advance.

Photo from rosewoodcreations.com

After planting the seedlings, dust the row spaces with ash. Before flowering begins and during the period when the ovaries appear, repeat the procedure. You can also prepare an ash solution (5 kg per 10 liters of water, then increase to 30 liters) and spray the plants with it 3 times per season.

During the growing season, spray the plantings with Abiga-Peak, Consento, Revus or other fungicidal preparations according to the instructions. Repeat the procedure every 15-20 days. Such preventive treatment of tomatoes against late blight will help prevent the onset of the disease. Just remember to use personal protective equipment when spraying and do not exceed the drug limits. To prepare solutions, use any utensils except metal ones, because... it reacts chemically with the components of the drugs and can reduce their effectiveness.

The best time for spraying is morning or evening.

other methods

Along with fungicides and folk remedies, other methods are also used to combat late blight. The advantages of alternative methods are simplicity, cheapness and efficiency.

Bordeaux mixture

This popular remedy is a mixture of quicklime and copper sulfate. Only the affected parts of the plants are sprayed with the prepared solution. During the season, 4 treatments are carried out. Intervals between spraying are 7-12 days.

How to prepare and use the solution:

Mix 100 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of lime (quicklime) in a bucket of warm water. Follow the sequence of actions - first dissolve the vitriol, then the lime.
Spray tomatoes using protective equipment. The weather should be clear and calm. The optimal time is morning and evening. Consumption rate – 1 liter of solution per 5 square meters. m.

It is forbidden to prepare a solution of Bordeaux mixture in a metal container. It is recommended to use utensils made of plastic, glass or wood.

Copper sulfate

This universal and inexpensive remedy has antimicrobial and antifungal effects and helps against a wide variety of diseases. Practical experience shows that the product effectively prevents late blight.

Benefits of copper sulfate:

suitable for different crops;
kills spores located on plants and in the soil;
is considered a low-hazard substance;
It is partly a fertilizer, as it contains copper, which is necessary for the functioning of cells.

A lack of copper leads to inhibition of the development of tomatoes - their ovaries and fruits do not form, and the leaves turn brown and die.

Dosage, g/10 l:

for soaking seeds – 1;
for spraying bushes – 10;
for soil disinfection – 100.

How to prepare a 1% solution for irrigation:

Dilute 100 g of powder in 1 liter of warm water heated to +40°C.
Make a blue solution in a bucket by adding 9 liters of water.
If the crystals have not completely dissolved, strain the solution through a piece of gauze.
Use the composition within 9 hours. The next day the solution will be ineffective.

Mulching

Mulching is a universal agricultural technique that allows you to achieve several goals at once. You can use peat or compost for mulch.

Mulching effect:

preventing soil drying out;
avoiding excess watering;
protection against fungi living in the soil.

Mulching is especially necessary when planting tomatoes without tying them up, when the bushes are partially in contact with the ground. If you do not add a layer of mulch, the pathogen, climbing the leaves in contact with the soil, penetrates the stem. If this happens, then late blight cannot be stopped. All that remains is to collect the fruits and put them for ripening.

Using Copper Wire

Phytophthora fungi are extremely sensitive to all copper-containing drugs. They are afraid of copper in any shape or form. This is the basis of another method of combating late blight. For this you will need a coil of thin copper wire.

Procedure:

Wrap the wire around the tomato stems at the root collar.
Cut a piece of wire about 3-5 cm long and pierce the stem at the base with it. Bend the ends of the wire to the ground.

This method can only be used for well-developed bushes. Otherwise, you can destroy the plants.

Green manure for the prevention of late blight

Green manure saturates the soil with nitrogen, accumulating it from the air. Other crops will impoverish the garden bed, but these will enrich it. They do not cancel fertilizers. It is still worth using bait. Green manure prevents the conversion of nutrients into forms that are not digestible by plants. They improve air exchange thanks to a developed root system. They actively grow green biomass, which contains many useful substances. This is reliable protection against late blight spores. In particular, white mustard, oilseed radish, rapeseed, and phacelia are used.

Oilseed radish

The root system of oil radish functions in a special way. Substances that are attractive to pseudomonos bacteria accumulate in the soil. These bacteria are found everywhere in the soil. They have a disinfecting effect and prevent the development of the fungus. A symbiotic relationship is formed with radish. All season long, tomatoes will be under reliable protection if this species grows nearby. The likelihood of infection is sharply reduced. The foliage accumulates many essential oils that have disinfectant properties. All this makes it an excellent green fertilizer.

White mustard

Mustard emits an aroma that repels Colorado potato beetles. In addition, it synthesizes phytoncides, strengthening the immunity of tomatoes. Elements necessary to suppress spore activity accumulate in its roots.

Phacelia

Phacelia stops soil acidification reactions, which is generally useful. The level of fertility increases due to the fact that nutrients are transferred into an easily digestible form. This flower has proven itself well as a biofertilizer and is actively used in the USA and European countries. In Russia, the most popular variety is Phacelia tansy. All its subspecies are excellent protection against late blight spores. Experts recommend combining the method of biofertilizers, green manure beds with mulching.

Rape

Another useful plant used as green manure is rapeseed. It also demonstrates antifungal effects. Essential oils accumulate in its leaves and stems, as in oil radish.

Rules for processing plants

In order for the effect of drugs used against late blight to be maximum, certain rules must be followed:

spraying treatment is carried out only on calm and sunny days;
when using toxic drugs, it is necessary to wear protective equipment;
It is prohibited to prepare chemical and some other solutions in metal containers to avoid oxidation.

Signs

Manifestations of late blight

Late blight on tomatoes can be diagnosed by the following visible manifestations:

A white coating is noticeable on the foliage
The lower part of the leaves darkens and becomes covered with brown spots. Then the entire leaf blade turns black and dries out. The plant sheds its leaves
The stems of the plant darken and also dry out over time.
Brown spots form on the fruits, the tomatoes mummify or begin to rot. Brown stains appear on harvested unripe tomatoes after 1–2 days of storage.

A characteristic symptom of fungal infection is that the spots can be gray or brown and, as a rule, have an irregular shape. Tomato fruits become diseased through the stalk, so they may look healthy in appearance. Late blight spots appear even at the stage of tomato ripening.

Blackening of fruits is a symptom not only of late blight, but also the result of excessive watering, dry soil or excess fertilizer. Late blight can easily be confused with other diseases on tomatoes - their distinctive features are collected in the table.

Prevention of late blight on tomatoes

Preventive protection of tomatoes from late blight consists primarily of following agricultural practices. Measures to prevent fungal damage to tomato plantings depend on where they are grown - in a greenhouse or in open ground. In both cases, it is necessary to treat the seeds by placing them in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes before sowing.

In the greenhouse

The greenhouse creates ideal conditions not only for plants, but also for pathogens - fungi, bacteria and other infections. The causative agent of late blight actively develops in humid, stagnant air, which often reigns in greenhouses.

Prevention measures:

If the greenhouse/greenhouse has been in use for more than a year, cleaning and disinfection are necessary.
The room is cleared of cobwebs and plant debris.
The soil in the greenhouse is completely changed.
Disinfection is carried out using different methods. One of the simplest and most effective is fumigation. A metal container filled with smoldering coals is brought into the greenhouse. Woolen fabric is placed on top of them. The room is fumigated for 24 hours. The second option is spraying with disinfectants, Fitosporin or Baikal.
When planting, seedlings are sprinkled with tobacco dust or wood ash.
Ventilate the greenhouse to prevent condensation.

In the open ground

Prevention of late blight in open ground requires an integrated approach. It is necessary to comply with irrigation standards, crop rotation and other rules of agricultural technology.

Prevention measures:

Soil deoxidation by adding lime. To restore normal soil acidity, it is necessary to add peat under digging.
When planting seedlings, dry sand is thrown into each hole - about 3 tbsp. l.
In an area where onions, potatoes, beets, cucumbers or carrots grew, tomatoes are not planted for at least 3 years.
Choose a sunny area for tomatoes, without stagnant water.
Watering - in the morning or late in the evening, at the root. If the summer is humid, watering is canceled.
The soil is regularly loosened to provide air access to the roots.

Additional recommendations

The likelihood of the spread of late blight can be reduced by reasonable site planning, as well as proper agricultural practices:

it is necessary to follow the principles of crop rotation and not plant tomatoes after other nightshade crops;
do not thicken plantings;
do not water the plants on a cloudy day;
the greenhouse should be regularly ventilated;
grow hybrids with resistance to late blight.

By using folk remedies for the prevention and treatment of the initial stage of late blight, you can ensure safe protection of tomatoes in your garden plot. A large selection of recipes and active ingredients allows everyone to choose the appropriate composition.

Possible mistakes when fighting late blight

Despite the abundance of means and methods to combat late blight, this disease appears in many gardens every summer. The cause of the disease is often gross mistakes made by gardeners.

Common mistakes:

The use of sprinkling when watering beds. Tomatoes can only be watered at the root. The optimal method of soil moistening is drip irrigation.
Incorrect feeding. In order for tomatoes to successfully resist the late blight pathogen, they must be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Do not overuse nitrogen fertilizers.
Watering during illness. If late blight has already appeared on a tomato plantation, watering them is strictly prohibited. High humidity will only enhance the development of pathogens.
Using several methods. You cannot use different methods of struggle at the same time. Combining chemicals is especially harmful. Plants die from an excess of “chemistry”, and their fruits accumulate a critical amount of poisons.

An experienced gardener will tell you how to fight late blight on tomatoes in the following video:

Despite the destructiveness of late blight for tomatoes, it can be successfully combated. There are dozens of simple and effective methods that can not only treat this fungal infection, but also prevent it.

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Development factors

Late blight of tomatoes is spreading at lightning speed. The peak of infection occurs at the end of June. The disease is transmitted from a plant infected with spores to healthy seedlings.

It is possible to spread spores by wind from neighboring garden plots that contain diseased vegetable crops of the nightshade family. A summer resident can bring the infection into his greenhouse or garden along with his clothes after contact with infected plants.

The speed at which the fungus spreads is also influenced by the following factors:

prolonged rains;
violation of agrotechnical conditions for growing tomatoes;
weeds that activate fungal growth;
density of seedlings.

High humidity, 20-25 degrees Celsius are optimal conditions for the growth of the fungus. Therefore, rainy summers often cause outbreaks of late blight.

Failure to observe crop rotation and infrequent weeding of vegetable crops are the reasons for the appearance of the disease on a personal plot. Therefore, experienced gardeners do not recommend planting nightshades for longer than 4-5 years in the same place.

You should also avoid such things as potatoes and tomatoes. Fungal spores found in infected tubers can spread to tomatoes and vice versa.

The activation of late blight is primarily facilitated by weeds such as woodlice, quinoa, and sow thistle. Their appearance in the garden must be carefully monitored and promptly destroyed.

Tomato bushes planted close to each other create favorable conditions for the development of pathogenic microorganisms (lack of light, high humidity). Therefore, plants should be planted at a distance of at least 0.5 meters from each other.

Resistant varieties and hybrids

Tall tomatoes

There are no varieties that are 100% protected from late blight infection. At the same time, early varieties that produce harvests earlier than August and specially bred hybrids show high resistance to late blight.

Non-susceptible varieties

Low-growing early-ripening varieties of tomatoes

Varieties of tomatoes with increased resistance to fungus are collected in the table.

Hybrids

Hybrid varieties are resistant to fungus

The hybrid varieties bred by breeders have increased immunity to various diseases, including the late blight fungus. The following hybrids have gained popularity among gardeners:

Soyuz-8 F1 . An early ripening variety that has the best resistance to late blight pathogens
Lark F1 . Ultra-early ripening variety with a high degree of set. The fruits are red, round, without a green spot at the stalk. Productivity reaches 10 kg per bush
New Year's F1 . Not only the plant, but also its fruits during storage are resistant to fungus
La-la-fa F1 . The fruits are large, bright red, can be stored for up to 2 months

Late blight is an insidious and dangerous disease for plants, but by knowing its first signs and taking preventive protective measures, damage can be avoided. Tomatoes, like other nightshades, are saved with the help of fungicides - natural and chemically synthesized. Another way to forget about the elusive late blight is to plant varieties and hybrids of tomatoes that are resistant to the disease.

How to prevent infection of nightshades with late blight, and what to do if the disease has already affected the plant, is described in short educational videos:

Tips and tricks from experienced gardeners

To prevent the disease, the first treatment of tomato beds is carried out no later than 14 days from the date of planting. Then spraying is repeated every 10-15 days. Also, do not forget about loosening and weeding the beds. Do not plant tomatoes next to potatoes, as the risk of late blight infection increases.

Periodically sprinkle the beds with ash - it reduces the acidity of the soil and improves its nutritional properties. If the summer is hot and humid, reduce the number of waterings. If, on the contrary, the weather is dry, then moisten the beds more thoroughly. For the most competent distribution of liquid, use a drip irrigation system. Thanks to it, moisture comes directly to the root, bypassing the stem and leaves.

If you use fungicides, carefully read the information on the packaging and do not overdose. Most chemicals can only be used during the flowering period. For the best effect, it is recommended to alternate fungicides.

Important ! Don't forget about fertilizing. Organic and mineral complexes increase the plant’s immunity, making it stronger and more resistant to late blight and other diseases. Nitrogen-containing substances, such as urea or ammonium nitrate, develop bushes especially well.