Processing a polycarbonate greenhouse in spring and autumn: features of processing before planting and after harvesting. How to treat a greenhouse in the spring with preparations

We often neglect cleaning and disinfecting greenhouses both in the fall after harvesting and in the spring before sowing. But in vain.

The greenhouse is not only our faithful assistant in growing heat-loving crops. Unfortunately, it often becomes a haven for pests and all sorts of pathogens - they love moisture and warmth. And during the summer season, dust, debris, and plant debris accumulate in cracks, corners and other secluded places of the greenhouse, on which bacteria, spores, and weed seeds can overwinter. Well, you shouldn’t forget about the pest larvae in the top layer of soil.

Therefore, it is still necessary to add sanitary treatment of the greenhouse to the list of dacha to-dos. And so that this event does not seem so troublesome and harmful to you, we will tell you how and how to quickly and effectively wash and disinfect the walls, frame and soil in the greenhouse. At the same time, we will not consider particularly toxic methods, such as spilling the soil with formaldehyde or bleach. We don't like them.

Why is greenhouse treatment so important?

The greenhouse is processed in accordance with sanitary standards. Many farmers are trying to create the most suitable microclimate for plants:

high temperature;
humidity is high.

But such an environment is also suitable for various harmful microorganisms. These include:

harmful and pathogenic bacteria;
fungi and mold spores;
pathogens of infectious diseases.

Failure to treat the greenhouse can lead to the rapid spread of harmful bacteria that may appear on the planted plants. They prevent plants from growing normally, or even destroy them.

Some microorganisms have increased viability. These include late blight spores. Tomatoes are their frequent victims. In conditions favorable for late blight, it can develop up to five years.

To avoid soil depletion, as well as the emergence of various toxins and bacteria in it, it is necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation. After harvesting, the soil is treated and disinfected for prevention. Such measures help protect crops from late blight, fusarium and blossom end rot. Proper soil cultivation has a positive effect in the fight against brown spot on tomatoes.

Treating the greenhouse frame will provide additional protection to vegetable crops from pests. When winter comes, some microorganisms can survive the winter by penetrating the soil.

In the autumn, digging up the soil and partially replacing it will help protect against whiteflies, and fumigating the room with sulfur bombs will help protect against spider mites.

Therefore, treating a polycarbonate greenhouse does not allow the spread of infection. In this case, the room must be cleaned of rust, dirt and dust.

Important! Garden tools, racks and shelves should also be treated.

Rules and safety measures for disinfecting greenhouses

In order for greenhouse treatment to be effective and, at the same time, not too harmful to the soil, plants and people, it is important to follow a few simple rules:

In both autumn and spring, carry out disinfection work at a temperature of at least +10°C. Otherwise, biological products will not work.
Try, if possible, not to use pesticides in the spring before planting seedlings. It's better to do this in the fall. If diseases are so rampant that serious treatment cannot be avoided, do not use the same product year after year. Alternate products with different active ingredients.
In addition to the previous rule: relatively harmless copper sulfate is also not a panacea. It’s just not worth using it for treatments every year. Copper gradually accumulates in the soil, and its excess inhibits plant growth.
The rule is banal, but no less important. Read the instructions for any drug and strictly follow the dosage.
Even when working with biological products, do not expose yourself to unnecessary risks. Gloves, a respirator or fabric mask, and safety glasses are required!

Disinfecting a greenhouse made of polycarbonate or any other material is not such a complicated procedure as it seems at first glance. If you thoughtfully approach all the advice from the Internet, “trying” them on your garden and your problems, you will find the optimal solution. We hope that our recommendations for treating greenhouses in autumn and spring will be useful to you.

We wish you success and great harvests!

When to treat a greenhouse

The greenhouse must be treated twice a year. In order to grow healthy garden crops indoors, you need to create safe conditions. A brush is used to clean heavily soiled areas.

Treatment of the greenhouse in the spring is carried out in the form of soil disinfection with the help of biological preparations, such as: phytosporin, azotophyte, pentafog, stubble biodestructor, trichodermin and phytocide. The use of these drugs will help strengthen the results of spring treatment, and they are carried out annually.

Autumn treatment consists of:

fumigation;
soil disinfection;
processing elements located indoors;
cleaning up debris, dry plants and leaves;
external treatment, which includes the use of a soap solution.

Ready-made chemicals for the prevention of greenhouses

Fufanon is used to combat spider mites, whiteflies and aphids. A solution from this preparation is sprayed onto the cracks of the frame and other places where insects can spend the winter.

Thunderstorms have a positive effect in the fight against snails and slugs. After harvesting the plants, the preparation is scattered onto the soil surface.

Muratsid - has proven itself in the fight against ants. 1 milliliter ampoules are used to water ant nests and their paths.

" Marshal " is effective against aphids, nematodes, spider mites and thrips. One ampoule is diluted in 9 liters of water. The resulting liquid is used to treat 10 square meters of soil. This drug is toxic for humans.

Fitosporin is a biological drug that is used against fungal infections. Mix 5 grams of powder into 10 liters of water. It is used to disinfect the walls and ceiling of greenhouses, and the top layer of soil. The drug is effective at temperatures of 10 degrees and above.

How to treat the soil in a greenhouse in the fall against diseases and pests?

Add to favorites

Growing garden crops in a greenhouse is profitable, but more troublesome, since it requires costs not only for cultivating the soil, but also for processing the structure. But these efforts pay off later if you approach the matter wisely. To do this, you need to know some of the features of preparing a greenhouse for winter.

Preparing the soil in the greenhouse for winter
Pests and diseases
How to treat and disinfect soil in a greenhouse: treatment methods Thermal
Chemical
Biological treatment

Fertilizing the soil for the winter

Useful tips

The first stage involves clearing the bed of plant debris. The top layer of soil (5–7 cm) is then removed to remove weeds and pathogens. And finally, collect pest larvae by digging or sifting the soil. This procedure is best done in the fall, while the first two can be done in the spring.

Using Bleach

Get rid of disease carriers such as:

blackleg;
clubroot;
white rot;
root-knot nematode;
late blight

Bleach will help. If work is carried out in the spring, then the chlorine content should be minimal, but in the fall, you can take more of it. Directly to treat the plantings, a liquid solution is used at the rate of water - 10 liters, lime - 0.4 kg. Late treatment can lead to the death of the diseased crop.

Preparing the soil in the greenhouse in the spring for planting

Processing stages

Spring preparation of a polycarbonate greenhouse for the new planting season includes 6 main stages:

General cleaning of the area where the greenhouse is located.
Installation of the structure.
Cleaning the frame and polycarbonate (acting as glass).
Disinfection inside the building.
If necessary, minor repairs to the structure (strengthening, strengthening of load-bearing foundations).
Soil cultivation. It involves the introduction of chemicals, insecticides, fertilizing, digging or replacing the fertile layer.

If no treatment was carried out in the fall, spring cleaning should begin with the removal of old plants. These include not only tops and fallen fruits, but also weeds, their large seeds and roots.

Next, you should get rid of all pegs, trellises, ropes, pieces of twine and other garter material. Pathogenic bacteria can multiply in it and immediately attack new seedlings. They should be taken out of the greenhouse and burned. By leaving them on the site, gardeners risk the occurrence of diseases in other parts of the site.

After this, the polycarbonate structure itself is cleaned. The most thorough treatment will be if the structure is disassembled into its components and all surfaces are disinfected. If an epidemic of diseases has been noted inside the greenhouse, the structure must be treated with a disinfectant. It is recommended to treat metal structures with warm water and vinegar.

Polycarbonate is a transparent material that loses its appearance and transparency when exposed to moisture and dirt. To return it to its original appearance, it is necessary to wash the coating with soapy water or detergents without abrasive components. You can also use a light solution of potassium permanganate. At the end of the procedure, you should thoroughly rinse off the detergents with clean running water.

To clean the polycarbonate coating, do not use hard sponges, metal brushes or mechanical abrasives. The coating is vulnerable to scratches.

Inside the greenhouse, all racks, equipment and containers should be cleaned. To do this, you can use boiling water, as well as some chemicals (formalin, vitriol, bleach).

temperature;
chemical;
biological.

Step: Pest Control

(This is already in the spring, 1-2 weeks before planting the seedlings)

Metarizin against soil pests is a fungus that parasitizes chitinous membranes and affects the digestive system of insects.

Effective against a huge number of wintering pests, but, fortunately, harmless to earthworms.

USE: The technology is similar to the previous treatment - we spill the pre-moistened soil and thoroughly loosen it so that the spores germinate and the fungus begins to grow and infect the larvae, if any.

If in previous years you were bothered by pests in the greenhouse, then it is recommended to repeat the treatments once every two weeks (combined with watering). This, of course, is additional work, but there is a chance to get rid of parasites.

Another variant:

If you planned to sow green manure, then the third and fourth stages can be combined:

We spill the soil, populate it with Metarizum, loosen it well and sow what we planned.

You can immediately spray with Bacillus hay or Trichoderma, or you can shed it after a week. This way, you will treat the soil at different levels, and beneficial microorganisms will suppress each other to a lesser extent.

We use biological products throughout the summer, and they do an excellent job of preventing a large number of diseases, and we haven’t seen insects for a long time.

If you planned to sow green manure, then the third and fourth stages can be combined:

How to treat a greenhouse in the spring against diseases?

The well-known 3% or 5% solution of copper sulfate is capable of destroying pathogens of fungal diseases. They carefully treat all surfaces in the greenhouse, as well as garden tools, boxes, etc. in autumn or after winter.

The packaging indicates the following proportions for preparing the solution: 100 g per 10 liters of water (1% solution), while 500 g per 10 liters of water is a 5% solution. TO treat greenhouses, it is recommended to use a 3% solution of copper sulfate everywhere. So, we take 300 g per 10 liters of water.

It is also effective to treat a greenhouse in the spring against diseases with a sulfur smoke bomb, following the instructions (preparations “Climate”, “Fas”, “Green Belt”).

It is believed that it is quite simple, but at the same time effective and safe, to disinfect greenhouses with a bleach solution. They use it to treat the greenhouse in the spring after winter, inside and out. Bleach is effective against many diseases and pests. The aqueous solution is prepared 3-4 hours before use. 400 g of bleach is dissolved in 12 liters of water and left for 3-4 hours. The settled solution is used for spraying, and the wooden parts of the greenhouse (if any) are lubricated with the sediment using a brush.

It is best to begin the fight against late blight in the fall, after harvesting. But if it is postponed until spring, then at this time of year it is recommended to treat the soil with a fungicide containing copper (Hom, Oksihom, copper sulfate). Or they use microbiological preparations (for example, the same Fitosporin) and smoke bombs.

In the reference guide “Vegetable garden. Practical advice" we found the following recommendation: At the first signs of late blight on the site, use a copper-soap emulsion: 20 g of copper sulfate and 200 g of soap per 10 liters of water. The solution is used for spraying plants.

Biological

The phytosailus mite, which feeds on spider mites, is settled based on the norm of 70-100 individuals per m².
The whitefly is controlled by the Encarsia parasite, up to 10 per square meter. m².
Aphids and ladybugs are used against aphids and lacewings. The latter are collected in the forest or meadow.

The problem is that you can buy them in a biological laboratory at greenhouse plants or in companies specializing in this, but this is not possible in every locality. In addition, the following drugs are used that act on organic matter, after which it decomposes and kills harmful microorganisms:

"Shine";
"Baktofit";
"Baikal M";
"Fitosporin M".

Their resources are small, and the benefits are incomparable - they saturate the soil with microelements, leave beneficial microflora, and remain active for a long time. The usual method of application is 100 grams per 10 liters of water.

Cultivate the soil 2 times, interval - 2 weeks, apply in the spring.

larvicides - destroy caterpillars and parasite larvae;
ovicides - destroy eggs of ticks and insects;
acaricides - suppress ticks;
aphicides - destroy aphids.

Pest control in the greenhouse

Diseases and pests of greenhouses cause significant damage to vegetable crops. Therefore, one of the most important measures for preparing a greenhouse is its spring preventive treatment.

Timely implementation of protective measures guarantees high yields in closed ground. In this case, it is necessary to reduce the number of chemical treatments to a minimum and give preference to biological methods of pest control in the greenhouse.

How to get rid of insects

Among the insects of protected ground, the most dangerous to the crop are: whitefly, various types of aphids, and nematodes.

The whitefly, like its larvae, feeds on plant sap, leaving sticky secretions in return. Sooty fungus appears in them, which manifests itself as a black coating on the leaves. This plaque slows down the proper growth and development of plants, thereby significantly reducing the yield of vegetable crops.

The chemical method of controlling this insect is regular spraying with karbofos (Figure 7). The biological method consists of suppressing whiteflies with the parasite Encarsia formosa. The success of this method depends on the timely detection of harmful insects. For this purpose, it is necessary to inspect the plants once a week.

Greenhouse aphids feed on plant sap, which leads to stunted growth, curling of leaves and insufficient yield. In addition, this insect is also dangerous because it carries viral diseases.

Figure 7. Methods of pest control in greenhouses

Regular inspection of indoor plants will help to detect the pest in a timely manner. If symptoms of infection are detected, it is necessary to use a chemical or biological treatment method. The chemical method involves spraying plants with karbofos, and the biological method involves the use of cocoons of the gall midge aphidimiza. If this entomophage cannot cope with the excess number of aphids, use the biological preparation mycoafidin, which has a selective effect and does not pose a danger to the gall midge.

One of the most polyphagous pests of indoor soil is the root-knot nematode. Its larvae penetrate into the roots of plants, slowing down their growth and causing weak flowering and insufficient fruiting. The fight against nematodes in closed ground involves steaming the soil with hot steam or using boiling water.

Note: In addition to chemical and biological control methods, it is worth using the help of other plants that can repel pests. Such plants include marigolds, which do not allow nematodes to settle in the soil, and an infusion of dry leaves, stems and roots of this flower will help fight aphids. Calendula, medicinal chamomile, onions, garlic, and hot pepper have the same effect.

It is important to know that when using chemicals, their use should be stopped two weeks before harvest. For herbal preparations this period is 5 days. The exception among them is chamomile; preparations from it can be used at any time.

Ways to fight fungus

Treating a greenhouse in the spring against diseases and pests also includes fungus prevention. Mold that appears on the ground is a sign of a fungus that is unsafe for both plants and humans (Figure 8). The fact is that it contains toxic substances that enter the plant body through the soil. Therefore, it is not recommended to consume greenhouse plants grown on soil with a fungal coating.

Note: The peculiarity of the fungal disease is that it appears on any soil, regardless of its composition and type of greenhouse. Here, high humidity, insufficient ventilation of the room and lack of direct sunlight play a decisive role. In addition, mold grows quickly and is not that easy to get rid of. Therefore, it is advisable to take preventive measures in advance.

First of all, it is necessary to ensure regular ventilation, and if condensation appears on the walls, it must be wiped dry. Watering should be adjusted so that there is no stagnation of moisture on the ground or floor. To ensure direct sunlight penetrates inside, it is necessary to open part of the greenhouse 2 times a week.

Figure 8. Infection of soil in a greenhouse with fungus (mold)

If mold does appear on the soil, it must be treated with special preparations such as phytosporin or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Among the available means, charcoal and ash (1:2) will be effective, the mixture of which is sprinkled on the soil and then loosened. The same applies to seedlings: plants with a coating of mold cannot be planted in closed ground without treatment against the fungus.

How to fight infection

In addition to pests and all kinds of diseases, various infections that affect plants can also enter indoor soil. The best way to combat them is proper prevention.

Therefore, when preparing the greenhouse for planting, follow these tips::

Bring new soil into the greenhouse that has not been previously used for growing seedlings.
When fertilizing the soil , remember that fresh manure cannot be used, as it has a detrimental effect on plants, and compost prepared independently should not contain plant residues from an infected greenhouse.
It is necessary to disinfect the frame and cover of the greenhouse, and completely replace the soil if an infection is detected. In addition, the area adjacent to the greenhouse must also be cleaned. Plants cannot be planted in an infected, untreated greenhouse.
Choose seeds responsibly : they must be healthy and disinfected.
It is necessary to fight not only diseases , but also insect pests, since they can spread infections.
water with sufficiently warm water to increase the plants' resistance to various infectious diseases.
When planting seedlings , try not to damage the stems, because an infection can develop at the site of even a small wound.
Plants indoors should receive sufficient sunlight, since ultraviolet radiation is a powerful tool in the fight against infections.

If diseased plants are discovered, they must be treated or removed urgently, since they are a source of infection that spreads very quickly in closed ground.

Sequencing

Processing stages

Spring preparation of a polycarbonate greenhouse for the new planting season includes 6 main stages:

General cleaning of the area where the greenhouse is located.
Installation of the structure.
Cleaning the frame and polycarbonate (acting as glass).
Disinfection inside the building.
If necessary, minor repairs to the structure (strengthening, strengthening of load-bearing foundations).
Soil cultivation. It involves the introduction of chemicals, insecticides, fertilizing, digging or replacing the fertile layer.

If no treatment was carried out in the fall, spring cleaning should begin with the removal of old plants. These include not only tops and fallen fruits, but also weeds, their large seeds and roots.

To clean the polycarbonate coating, do not use hard sponges, metal brushes or mechanical abrasives. The coating is vulnerable to scratches.

Inside the greenhouse, all racks, equipment and containers should be cleaned. To do this, you can use boiling water, as well as some chemicals (formalin, vitriol, bleach).

Fumigation as a method of cleaning a greenhouse

Fumigation is an effective method of pest control in a closed greenhouse structure. To do this, entrances and windows are tightly closed, small cracks are sealed and a smoky fire is lit. If this is not enough, you will need several sulfur bombs. They are laid out on metal sheets. You can replace them with lumpy sulfur, which should be combined with a small amount of kerosene.

Disinfection using fumigation is carried out for 4-5 days, after which the room is ventilated.

It is dangerous for a person to be in a greenhouse during such treatment, since the gas released during fumigation can cause serious respiratory diseases. If it becomes necessary to enter the greenhouse, personal protective equipment should be used.

Basic methods of soil disinfection

The next step is soil disinfection. Three types of processing can be used for this:

temperature;
chemical;
biological.

The effectiveness of the fight against bacteria, fungi and insects depends on the chosen processing method. The choice of purification method is influenced by the type of crops grown in the greenhouse. This procedure is quite labor-intensive.

Changing the temperature

If the end of winter and the beginning of March are frosty, you can take advantage of this natural blessing and freeze the ground. To do this, you need to open the greenhouse and leave it open for several days. Low temperatures can lead to the death of harmful bacteria and fungi that abundantly infect plants. Frost can also neutralize insect larvae deposited in the ground in the fall.

If we are talking about a small area for seedlings, then you don’t have to start working with chemicals, but treat the soil with boiling water. This is enough to destroy most types of pathogens and pest larvae. Find more information about tilling the soil before planting seedlings here.

Biological control method

Biological treatment is usually carried out using the following drugs:

"Fitosporin";
"Phytocide";
"Biodestructor of stubble."

The following drugs are also used:

"Baikal M", effective against rot, fungi and lichens;
"Fitolavin" against rot and pathogens;
“Carbation”, which helps cope with clubroot and blackleg, as well as verticillium and fusarium wilt;
"Acrobat MC" to combat powdery mildew and late blight;
"Bayleton" for gray rot.

To clean the soil, it is enough to shed only the top layer. For treatment, you need to prepare the solution according to the instructions, then carry out disinfection. After the solution is absorbed, use a rake to dig up the treated area a little. Then the disinfected soil must be covered with a covering material (film or spunbond).

After using biological preparations, it is necessary to take care of the soil structure and replenish it with beneficial bacteria artificially.

Chemical method of disinfection

The use of chemicals is usually due to the desire of site owners to get rid of pests for a long time. However, it must be understood that any exposure to such substances has significant consequences for the crops grown.

Chemical treatment is best carried out during the coolest part of the day, ideally at night.

There are a number of chemicals widely used for soil disinfection:

Bleached lime is considered the most accessible. It is affordable and has earned the trust of gardeners for its effectiveness. To prepare it, just dilute 400 grams of quicklime in a 10-liter bucket of water. The solution is infused for 8 hours: 4 - with occasional stirring, 4 - without stirring. After this, the upper liquid layer is selected for soil treatment. The remainder of the solution can be used to whitewash any wooden frames in the garden.
A chlorine solution prepared in a proportion of 1 kilogram per 10 liters of water is effective in combating spider mites.
Formalin is applied 2 weeks before planting. After applying it, the soil must be covered with polyethylene for 3 days. The cleaned soil is dug up and the greenhouse is ventilated.
“Bordeaux mixture” is a powder for dilution in water. The main condition is its proper application on the soil according to the instructions.
“Iprodione” is a powder for soil disinfection in the spring to prevent diseases such as gray and white rot, Phomopsis, and oidium.
Hexachloran is effective against caterpillars and butterflies.
Treatment with copper sulfate can be used as radical methods. It is quite aggressive against all bacteria (not only those harmful to plants). After its application, the soil is considered infertile, so it will need artificial fertilizing for several years. Copper sulfate solution is most often used to treat the internal surfaces of the greenhouse and cracks in the base of the structure. With its help you can fight late blight, powdery mildew, and scab.

You can purchase ready-made medications in specialized stores:

“Lightning” against spider mites;
“Thunderstorm” from snails and other types of slugs;
"Marshall" against aphids and thrips.

Before using chemicals, it is important to carefully study the instructions and strictly follow the proportions when diluting poisons. To spray them, special equipment and protective equipment or improvised equipment can be used.

When to treat

It is necessary to start processing the greenhouse before the snow melts. At the first stage, it is snow that is required. It is brought into the greenhouse and the entire perimeter is covered. Pros of using snow:

melt water moistens the soil and supplies it with important microelements;
The ground, thanks to the snow, freezes, and the larvae overwintering in the upper layer are destroyed.

Advice! While the temperature outside is below freezing, to get rid of ice on polycarbonate, open the windows and doors. When the temperatures are equalized, the crust will easily come off without additional effort.

At the end of February or early March, the second stage of work begins to prepare the polycarbonate greenhouse for the new season. During this period, they plan to clean and disinfect the soil, as well as all structural elements and auxiliary equipment (shelves, benches, racks, fences for beds).

Rotten wooden parts are replaced with new ones, old ones are disinfected. Slaked lime is used for this. Metal parts with signs of corrosion:

cleanse;
subjected to careful treatment using special anti-rust agents;
prime;
apply paint to metal.

Most summer residents remove rust using improvised means: lemon juice mixed with vinegar, soda, raw potatoes.

Plant remains remain in the ground after the last season: roots, stems, remains of foliage. Everything needs to be collected and taken to the compost heap. Remove old bindings, twine, and pegs from the greenhouse. Burn everything that has become unusable and collect the ashes for spring and summer feeding.

Greenhouse treatment in spring

Spring and autumn processing are practically no different. In the spring, the remains of plants are removed, if they were not removed in the fall, and disinfection is carried out.

Disinfection in the spring will reduce the likelihood of pest spores and their larvae appearing in the soil. In the summer, pest activity will peak and this will negatively affect the yield.

Polycarbonate is also given a treatment to improve light transmission. Before cleaning, it is necessary to repair damaged structural elements.

The final stage includes processing the soil for further planting. There are times when the soil needs to be changed, and this is done in the following cases:

the occurrence of plant diseases that grew in the greenhouse;
the soil was depleted due to lack of agronomic crop rotation;
when creating warm and high beds.

In addition to these methods, there are also traditional ones - adding organic matter, fluffing and loosening the soil.

Six stages of spring processing:

freeing up space - containers for seedlings, shelving are taken out, supports are removed to strengthen the roof, which were installed in winter;
replacement or repair of damaged frame elements (if any). Repaired items must be whitewashed with lime and paint glue;
inspection of heating and watering equipment. If necessary, damaged pipes are repaired and painted;
inspection of polycarbonate and replacement of sheets if necessary;
garbage collection;
disinfection. Cleaning polycarbonate and internal frame elements using wet cleaning. The entire room is fumigated.

Soil preparation includes adding fertilizers, additives and disinfection. It is advisable not to use chemical additives. Replace the soil if necessary.

Watch the video! Treatment of the greenhouse in the spring from pests and diseases

Tomato diseases in a polycarbonate greenhouse

Tomatoes grown indoors are susceptible to various types of diseases. The most common diseases of tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse include (Figure 9):

Late blight
Leaf mold
Rot
Mosaic
Fomoz

To preserve plants and get the desired harvest, you need to learn to distinguish the symptoms of these diseases and master measures to combat them.

Late blight disease of tomatoes is caused by a fungus. It manifests itself in the appearance of brown spots on leaves, stems and fruits. Most often, late blight occurs in greenhouses with high humidity and large temperature changes.

The following measures are used to combat this disease::

Strong and healthy plants are chosen as planting material;
When planting seedlings, it is necessary to avoid damaging them so as not to open the gates to possible infection;
The soil must be sufficiently fertile, since a significant imbalance between nutrients leads to the development of diseases;
Weather conditions play an important role when planting seedlings, because hypothermia and excessive moisture are extremely undesirable for tomatoes;
Finally, it is recommended to plant several varieties of tomatoes at the same time, since they all react differently to the fungus;
Maintain distance between planted bushes. The required distance will protect healthy plants from those that were susceptible to disease.

With a lack of moisture or excessive nitrogen content in the soil, apical rot of tomatoes appears. On green, unripe fruits, spots appear, either watery and rotten, or dry and black. If signs of the disease are detected, it is necessary to spray the affected plants with a solution of calcium nitrate and establish regular watering of the tomatoes.

Figure 9. Main diseases of tomatoes in greenhouses: 1 - late blight, 2 - rot, 3 - mosaic, 4 - fomoz

Leaf mold (brown spot) is a fungal disease. It affects the leaves of plants and appears in the form of brown-brown spots with a velvety coating. The leaves of infected plants die, and fungal spores continue to spread when watering tomatoes, as well as through fallen leaves and human clothing. To get rid of brown spot, it is necessary to lower the air humidity in the greenhouse by reducing the number of waterings. Chemical control methods can be used by spraying plants with copper oxychloride.

Gray rot of tomatoes affects fruits at the end of the growing season. Unlike late photoblight, watery brown spots appear on the fruits. In some cases, gray rot affects not only the fruits, but also other above-ground parts of the plant. Affected fruits should be removed, the soil should be disinfected, and the plants should be sprayed with a fungicide.

Note: In addition to gray rot, root rot is also known, affecting the root collar of plants, which leads to their death. Treating the soil with a solution of copper sulfate and replacing the top layer of soil with a new one will help defeat the disease.

A common viral disease of indoor soil is mosaic. By affecting tomato leaves, it changes their color and shape, causing them to turn yellow and dry out.

To combat this viral disease, the following set of measures is used::

Watering tomato seedlings with a solution of potassium permanganate several times a day.
Treatment of tomatoes with a mixture of skim milk and urea after 10 days.
It is recommended not to touch the sap of plants when cutting, so as not to spread the virus.

A distinctive sign of phomosis is a large brown spot located around the base of the fruit. In this case, not only the surface, but also the inside of the tomato is affected. The cause of this disease is high humidity or excessive application of nitrogen or fresh manure to the soil.

Greenhouse treatment in autumn

Removing vegetation residues

These residues can serve to overwinter harmful microorganisms. If the vegetation was affected by the disease, it is burned. Healthy greens can be used to make compost.

Cleaning harnesses and supports

Pests can also live on harnesses and supports. It is better to burn them or take them outside the greenhouse. Reusable metal supports are also treated together with other room elements.

Greenhouse flushing

Wet cleaning plays an important role and gets rid of viruses, contaminants, fertilizers, spores, fungi and chemical treatment residues. Polycarbonate is unstable to light damage, so wet cleaning must be done using microfiber cloths or soft sponges.

For washing, use warm water and laundry soap (detergent). The entire internal surface is cleaned with soap foam; special attention should be paid to the joints of the frame with the polycarbonate coating. The soap suds are left for 10 minutes and then washed off with the hose. After washing the inner surface, you need to start washing the outer surface. This procedure will make it easier to clear snow and ice in winter.

Tillage

In case of severe contamination of the soil by pests, it is removed (layer from 7 to 10 centimeters). Further reuse of this soil for growing another crop is prohibited. The soil is taken outside the site and disinfected. New soil is poured in place of unsuitable soil. If the infection was moderate, then it can be treated with chemical additives. The soil is not dug up before disinfection from bacteria. Preliminary digging is necessary only when treating against harmful insects, since they can hide deep underground. When digging, it is best to treat the soil with copper sulfate to avoid the appearance of fungal diseases.

How to disinfect soil?

For the highest quality tillage of the soil, it will be necessary to replace its top layer (6-8 cm). Compost is placed on the vacated area, and new soil is placed on top of it.

If the greenhouse area is small, you can use boiling water, thanks to which disinfection will be carried out.

You can also use Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate to treat the soil. Bleach and potassium permanganate are also often used.

Today, gardeners often use sulfur bombs, thanks to which both the soil and the internal surfaces of the greenhouse are disinfected.

You can treat the soil with chemicals only in the fall. It is not recommended to use them in the spring before planting.

Subtleties of processing with biological products

Before adding a biologically active drug, it is important to study the instructions and strictly follow them. Of course, an overdose in this case is not terrible, but the effectiveness may be reduced. Most often, when applying biological products, it is recommended:

wait for a favorable temperature. Living bacteria and fungi begin to work fully only in warm soil. That is why it is recommended to carry out processing at a temperature of +14 °C;
create a humid environment. After applying biological preparations, it is important to thoroughly water the beds. This stimulates the reproduction processes of beneficial microorganisms;
retain moisture. To retain moisture in the soil and create an optimal microclimate, it is recommended to cover watered beds with spunbond or film.

Preparing for winter

After harvesting and processing, there is no point in dismantling the greenhouse for the winter. In this case, the condition must be met that it is prepared for winter frosts.

To avoid damage to the structure from snow, it must be strengthened with 3-4 T-shaped wooden supports. This will strengthen the greenhouse roof until spring arrives. More supports should be placed on the leeward sides of the room, since snow will accumulate there most of all.

Important! The supports are installed on a hard surface, not open ground.

Soil disinfection

Replacing the top layer of soil (from 6 to 8 centimeters) will give the best results when processing it. The compost is placed on the vacated space, and new soil is placed on top.

If the greenhouse area is small, you can use boiling water to disinfect it. In addition to boiling water, you can use copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. In some cases, potassium permanganate and bleach are used.

Nowadays, farmers often use sulfur bombs, which disinfect both the soil and the inner surface of the greenhouse.

Chemical treatment is used only in the autumn. This method is not recommended for spring.

Frame processing

Before you start processing the frame, it must be inspected for rust and damage. If rust is detected, it is removed, the area is painted over, and the damage is repaired. The frame can also be washed with soapy water, just like the polycarbonate surface. During washing, you need to make sure that the solution does not get on the soil.

Watch the video! Preparing the greenhouse for winter

Pre-preparation: the very first spring work in the greenhouse

In order for disinfection to be as effective as possible, the greenhouse must be prepared for this event. In this case, the starting work consists of several stages.

Stage No. 1. Freeing up greenhouse space

Remove from the greenhouse everything that prevents free access to greenhouse surfaces and interferes with sanitary processing. Inventory, shelving, side fences, cups for seedlings, pegs - in a word, everything that was safely stored here all winter, move to another place for a while. Also remove supports if you used them to support the roof in case of heavy snowfalls. Inspect all wooden structures thoroughly. If you find areas affected by fungus, replace them. Also carefully analyze metal elements for rust. For preventive purposes, the wood is treated with slaked lime, and the metal is painted after removing the rust.

Stage No. 2. We recycle garbage

According to the rules for caring for a greenhouse, all garbage must be removed and disposed of in the fall. However, if you didn’t have time, don’t miss this important stage in the spring. It is better to burn pieces of twine, roots of last year's plants, pegs, fabric scraps for tying and other disposable material. In this case, the resulting ash can be used as fertilizer.

Stage No. 3. Fighting the dirt

The walls of the greenhouse must be transparent so that the sun's rays penetrate through them. But if the film, glass or polycarbonate is covered with a layer of dust, there can be no question of any compliance with the light regime. To remove dirt, you can use a solution of laundry soap or special products. At the same time, inside the greenhouse, do not wash away soap and chemicals with a hose stream so that all this does not get on the soil. It is better to wipe the surfaces several times with a damp cloth.

And now, when the greenhouse has been cleaned, repaired and washed, you can begin to disinfect it.

Processing a greenhouse with perennial plantings

Often, greenhouse treatments can be done without cultivated plants, in spring or fall. In this case, many aggressive methods are used. But the question arises: how to handle greenhouses with perennial plants?

Today, growing raspberries in closed soil has become increasingly popular. The advantage is that raspberries have a dormant period when all fruit-bearing shoots can be removed. Preventive work is carried out after winter, with shoots pruned and plants removed. Disinfection is the disinfection of soil and equipment with various solutions (a concentration that will not harm raspberries) and mechanical cleaning indoors.

Recommendations for preserving soil in a greenhouse

In some recommendations from gardeners, you can find advice to use the tops of greenhouse crops to create compost. This is possible, but only if several conditions are met:

During the previous two seasons, there was no increase in the number of insects or outbreaks of infectious plant diseases in the greenhouse.
A garden plot makes it possible to freely place a certain amount of compost for a period of 4 years to “process” pathogens without using it.
The resulting compost will not be used for growing crops from the tops of which it was obtained.

To prevent pests from entering the soil, you must adhere to some rules:

For processing, you should have a separate set of garden tools. All tools (shovel, rake, fork) should not be used outside the greenhouse.
It is worth taking care of a separate set of shoes with gardening gloves. Its use will protect the microclimate of the enclosed space from external influences.
After treatment, you should not bring newly purchased plants into the greenhouse. They must be kept in quarantine for at least two days. During this time, they may show signs of disease. If this happens, the shoots must be disposed of on neutral territory to prevent their seeds from getting into the soil.

Following simple recommendations will allow you to preserve existing plants and prevent soil contamination by harmful insects.

How to treat a polycarbonate greenhouse in the spring is described in this video:

Even greenhouses made of modern polycarbonate material require careful processing in the spring. The use of mechanical, biological and chemical processing methods will preserve soil fertility and increase the productivity of planted plants.

Copy link

Cleaning the greenhouse surface inside and outside

When the snow has completely melted, you need to open all the windows and doors in the greenhouse. This will remove icing. It is not worth removing it mechanically, so as not to damage the coating. Afterwards you can begin to wash the structure.

Wipe all metal bases with a damp cloth to remove dirt, and then treat with anti-rust solutions. You can buy ready-made ones in the store, or you can use folk recipes. Lemon juice and vinegar mixed in equal parts, soda diluted with water to a paste, Coca-Cola or raw potatoes cut in half work best. If rust has already appeared, prepare a paste of vinegar and flour, add a pinch of salt. Rub onto the damaged area and leave for a while, then rinse with water.

The painted parts also need updating. The old peeling paint must be completely removed and then covered with new paint.

Wooden parts should be washed with soapy water, and when they are dry, treated with varnish or stain for greater safety.

Now you can put things in order. The easiest way is to prepare a soap solution and thoroughly wash the greenhouse inside and out. This will not only restore cleanliness, but will also provide additional treatment against microbes. Afterwards, you need to remove the remaining solution from the inside using a napkin or a piece of cotton cloth, and just rinse off the outside with running water.

It is strictly forbidden to use hard sponges, much less scrapers, or abrasive household chemicals on polycarbonate.

Inspection and autumn cleaning of the greenhouse

In the fall, after harvesting, the first thing you need to do is inspect the greenhouse. Using a metal brush, you need to clean the areas damaged by rust, and then treat them with an anti-corrosion primer and paint.

It is better to remove plant remains and supports that support them from the ground and burn them.

Remains of infected plants should not be buried in the ground or used in compost heaps.

The larvae of mole crickets, beetles or wireworms often hide under paths made of hard materials. They must be collected and destroyed, because... they winter well in greenhouses. It’s easier to deal with pests in the fall, otherwise you’ll have to fight them during the “hottest” season for gardeners.

How to deal with mole crickets - effective drugs and folk remedies
Don’t know how to get rid of mole crickets on your property? Our recipes will help you protect your garden crops from this underground pest.

How to get rid of wireworms on potatoes once and for all
Do you think that the most dangerous potato pest is the Colorado potato beetle? So you don't know anything about wireworms!

Cleaning

First, it is recommended to organize cleaning of the interior space. Roots, stems and leaves of vegetable crops that were grown last season may remain on the soil surface. All collected garbage is collected, taken out of the greenhouse and must be burned.

It is not recommended to simply remove the remains of last year’s plants into a cesspool, since they may contain pests and pathogens of various diseases. When the weather gets warmer, they will resume their life activity and harm garden crops.

In addition, the ash that is obtained after burning the remains of last year’s plants is an excellent organic fertilizer. It contains such useful microelements that any soil really needs, such as:

Dry ash is scattered over the surface of the greenhouse soil before digging it up. Many vegetable growers prefer to dissolve ash in water and introduce the nutrient composition into the soil in liquid form.

Stages of preparing a greenhouse for the season

In order to properly treat the greenhouse for spring sowing, a lot needs to be done. In addition to preparing the soil, you need to wash and disinfect the structure itself, which can become a breeding ground for bacteria and pests.

Freeing up space

Before starting work on processing the greenhouse, you will have to remove everything from it that could interfere with this process. Even the supports that support the roof in the event of a large amount of snow must be dismantled.

Everything that is taken out of the greenhouse must be carefully inspected and processed:

Whitewash wooden structures with lime and paint glue. If the elements are rotten, they require replacement;
treat metal products from rust if pockets of rust have been identified. This can be done using both folk remedies and purchased ones. After this manipulation, paint the metal supports.

Attention! If heating equipment is installed in the greenhouse, it needs to be painted. However, it is not recommended to use oil paint - it reduces heat transfer.

If everything that was taken out is not damaged, then you can refuse processing

Garbage collection and recycling

Be sure to get rid of last year's weeds, ropes and pegs that were used by gardeners to tie up vegetable crops. Roots, leaves, and stems of plants also need to be removed.

Collected garbage must be burned. At the same time, the ash that will be obtained during the recycling process will be an excellent fertilizer. It will help saturate the earth with useful microelements (zinc, phosphorus, iron, etc.). If you use dry ash for fertilizer, then it must be scattered before digging the soil at the rate of 3-5 cups per 1 square meter. m. If for feeding, then you need to dissolve 1 glass of the substance in a bucket of water.

Fighting dust and dirt

It is necessary to provide clean conditions for growing seedlings and vegetable crops by washing the greenhouse. You need to remove dirt and layers of dust with:

frame. It is treated with a soap solution, then it is collected back with a rag. If there was an invasion of parasites in the previous season, then a remedy for the detected pests should be added to the solution;
polycarbonate plates, while they are processed on both sides. For washing, use a soft rag or sponge with soapy water. From the outside it can be washed off with high pressure of water, but inside you need to do this carefully - it is undesirable for soap to get into the ground.

If you follow these rules, you can clean the greenhouse without harming the soil.

Greenhouse disinfection

After the greenhouse has been washed, you need to start disinfecting it. Bordeaux mixture is used to combat diseases. Some gardeners who prefer folk remedies to combat diseases and pests resort to a decoction of pine needles.

You need to prepare it as follows: fill the bucket halfway with pine branches, add liquid. When this remedy is infused, it can be used. To quickly prepare this product, you can cook it for 20 minutes. Summer residents can also replace pine needles with nettles - the preparation of the decoction is similar. If the greenhouse is severely damaged by fungal infections, then you can resort to fumigation.

Attention! Before this procedure, all the cracks in the greenhouse must be sealed so that the vapors of the product used do not evaporate into the air.

Fumigation is often done by gardeners, since this way they can treat the soil and the structure itself.

Preparing the soil for planting

Disinfection methods acting on the frame make it possible to reduce labor costs for soil cultivation. According to the rules, you need to change its top layer (the first 12-15 cm) with a new one every year. But there are alternative replacement methods:

tilling the land with boiling water - per 1 sq. m. requires 3 buckets of liquid;
pour boiling water and cover the soil. The resulting steam penetrates deeply, destroying pests;
soil disinfection with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate or a 3% solution of nitrafen. This will help exterminate insects hibernating in the soil;
disinfection with carbation at a concentration of 2%.

Other chemicals are best used in the fall.

Disinfectants

There is a list of preparations for soil disinfection for the spring period.

Formalin is used two weeks before planting. 250 milliliters of a 40 percent formalin solution is dissolved in a bucket of water. The soil is treated with the resulting consistency (10 liters of solution per 1 square meter). After treatment, the soil must be covered with film. After the three-day period, the film is removed and the soil is dug up. After all work is completed, the greenhouse is thoroughly ventilated. Such disinfection requires further feeding with useful minerals.

Copper sulfate helps protect the soil from fungal diseases and harmful insects. Before planting, each hole is filled with a solution (1 tablespoon of vitriol per 10 liters of water). This work needs to be done every five years.

Bordeaux mixture - contains copper sulfate and slaked lime. Proper preparation of the mixture will ensure high efficiency of use. Add 100 grams of copper sulfate to 1 liter of hot water. After this, cold water is added in such an amount that 5 liters of liquid come out. The lime is slaked separately. For 1 liter of water you need 120 grams of lime. The volume must also be increased to 5 liters. Copper sulfate must be mixed with the lime solution, gradually adding the first one and stirring thoroughly with a lath.

“Iprodione” is a dry powder that must be added during spring digging (per square meter - from 100 to 150 grams of powder). This drug will help get rid of diseases such as phomopsis, oidium, white and gray rot.

Fungicide TMTD - can be used at any time, and is not a phytotoxic drug. It looks like a dry powder that crumbles onto the soil. After this, the soil is harrowed and watered with a low concentration of potassium permanganate solution. Provides prevention against a number of diseases: peronospora, fusarium, mold and fomoz of vegetable plants.

Wet prophylaxis is carried out:

bleach. 400 grams of dry lime is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The mixture must be infused for at least four hours; it can be used to disinfect the internal elements of the room. Transparent polycarbonate elements are treated with a transparent composition, and a wooden frame is treated with sediment;
carbation, which contains a fumigant. This element is able to protect plants from root rot and blackleg. A solution of this substance is sprayed over the frame.

There is also “gas” spring prevention using smoke bombs.

Hexochlorane. It contains insecticides with a nerve-paralytic effect and is used against the caterpillars of various insects and butterflies that live inside the soil. This remedy is useless against herbivorous mites. Sulfur checker has a systemic effect and is in great demand. Sulfur agicide can destroy mites, fungi and small insects. After using the checker, soil remediation is not required.

Permethrin, thanks to its nerve-paralyzing effect, destroys moths and ants.

Tobacco smoke protects plants from pests due to nicotine smoke. Used in greenhouses with a painted metal frame.

Stage #4 – greenhouse disinfection

It is recommended to spray a greenhouse that has been cleared of dirt with a low concentration of Bordeaux mixture or a highly diluted solution of copper sulfate. This is prevention against gray rot, scab, rust, downy mildew and the eternal enemy - late blight.

Adherents of strict environmental principles can use a proven folk method - a decoction of pine needles. To do this, half a bucket of compacted pine branches is filled with water and infused. In the express version, cook for 20 minutes. According to experienced summer residents, pine needles can be replaced with nettle, a decoction or infusion of which is prepared according to the same recipe. There is an opinion that instead of pine branches it is permissible to use 200 g of pine extract from a pharmacy. These products help in the fight against late blight and other diseases of fungal origin.

In buildings heavily contaminated with fungal diseases, it is recommended to carry out more effective disinfection by fumigation:

cuttings of sulfur, which will require 1 kg per 10 m³ of area. For fumigation, you should stock up on metal baking sheets, crush the sulfur and mix it with an equal part of charcoal. The baking sheets with the mixture spread on them are placed in evenly spaced deep basins or similar containers. They set fire to the sulfur in the basins, close the door and ventilation transoms tightly and hastily leave the building, because... The sulfur dioxide released when the mixture burns is toxic. Therefore, sulfur disinfection procedures must be carried out with gloves, safety glasses and a gas mask, or at least a respirator;
sulfur bombs, of which you will need 500g per 10³. The checkers are distributed and set on fire in the same way as in the method described above.

Before fumigation, all cracks are tightly caulked so that the smoky gases act on the structure and do not flow into space without leaving a trace. For ventilation, the disinfected greenhouse is opened no earlier than after 5 days, after which it must be ventilated for at least 2 weeks.

It should be remembered that sulfur dioxide destroys the metal parts of the greenhouse frame. Therefore, fumigation is considered a last resort, which should not be resorted to unless absolutely necessary. It should be abandoned outright if there are already lesions on the metal racks.

Fumigation is a general disinfection procedure, because Both surfaces and soil are treated. It kills both fungal diseases and larvae of harmful insects. Avid gardeners sometimes recommend doing it immediately after repairs. You just need to take into account that after fumigation, you will not be able to work in the greenhouse for 2 weeks, including removing weeds, digging up the soil and washing the structure. There is also a subtlety: a greenhouse with perennial plantings is disinfected with sulfur only in the spring.

Where does the initial preparation of a greenhouse structure begin?

The beginning of work involves cleaning the greenhouse from unnecessary auxiliary devices and collecting all plant residues for their further destruction. If there were no diseases or pests in the previous season, it is quite possible to leave tops, plant roots and fruits that were not harvested in the fall for compost. Otherwise, it is better to burn it all to prevent the spread of plant diseases in the current season.

Remove everything from the greenhouse before processing

Next, it is necessary to inspect the structure for breakdowns and damage to individual structural elements. Rotten wooden parts of the greenhouse will need to be replaced with new ones, while rusted metal elements must first be coated with a primer and then painted. The transparent coating is cleaned of dirt, damaged areas are replaced. And if the tightness at the joints of the structure is broken, all cracks and cracks must be sealed.

How to deal with cucumber diseases in a greenhouse

Cucumbers that are grown indoors are most often susceptible to diseases such as: anthracnose, white and gray rot, powdery and downy mildew, root rot, bacteriosis (Figure 10).

Anthracnose is caused by a fungus that actively reproduces throughout the growing season. It is manifested by the appearance of round spots on the leaves, at the site of which tissue necrosis begins. At the same time, the fruits become covered with ulcers, both single and multiple. Soon all these formations darken and begin to rot. As a result, cucumbers become bitter and cannot be stored.

Spores of the fungus that causes anthracnose are spread by airborne droplets in conditions of high humidity and temperature. They can be stored in seeds and plant debris.

Therefore, the following requirements will be used to prevent anthracnose infection::

Using only healthy planting material;
Sowing seeds in well-warmed and pre-prepared soil;
Disinfection of soil in a greenhouse;
Compliance with crop rotation rules;
If infected plants are found, immediately treat them with Bordeaux mixture or a bleach suspension.

Another representative of fungal diseases is white rot, which affects all vegetative organs of cucumbers. The bushes die due to intoxication with a substance secreted by the fungus.

Note: Affected plants are easily recognized by softened, slippery tissue with a white fluffy coating of mycelium. Subsequently, the affected tissues rot. Methods to combat white rot include removing and destroying plant debris after harvest, as well as systematically inspecting and destroying infected and rotten fruits. If the soil is contaminated, it must be replaced or disinfected.

A similar disease is gray rot of cucumbers. It affects not only stems, fruits and leaves, but even flowers and ovaries, as well as leaf axils. Control measures are similar to the previous ones, including dusting plants at the initial stage of growth with honey and chalk powder.

Figure 10. Main diseases and pests of cucumbers in a greenhouse

The most common disease of greenhouse cucumbers is powdery mildew. In damaged plants, the vegetative organs become covered with a white coating, then darken and die prematurely.

To protect the future harvest, it is necessary to carry out a number of measures in a timely manner.:

Carefully remove and destroy plant debris after harvesting, disinfect the greenhouse and its covering, as well as the tools used in growing the crop.
Carefully select seeds: for example, hybrids are more resistant to this type of infection.
Maintain the required temperature conditions inside the greenhouse.
When the first signs of the disease appear, spray with any fungicide. Repeat treatment after 10-14 days.

Unlike powdery mildew, downy mildew affects only the leaves of plants, forming spots on their surface. As a result, the leaf blade darkens, dries out and falls off.

The preventive set of measures includes:

Timely removal and destruction of affected plant parts;
Ensuring normal temperature conditions;
Selection of varieties that are most resistant to infections;
Complete disinfection of the soil or its replacement if damaged.

As a rule, root rot affects weakened plants. As a result of this fungal infection, the seedlings grow very slowly or die. The roots of the remaining seedlings become brown, the stem becomes thinner, and the plant itself is very easily removed from the soil.

Among the control methods, both preventive and therapeutic ones are distinguished.:

Maintaining proper growing conditions for crops in the greenhouse;
Treatment of plants with special biological products;
Timely removal of infected bushes;
Replacement of topsoil;
Disinfection of the greenhouse structure and its covering;
Warming up and treating seeds before planting.

In practice, various bacterioses of cucumbers are also encountered. The defeat begins with the cotyledons and spreads to the leaf tissue, leading to their necrosis. Holes appear at the site of bacterial spots, and this can happen both on leaves and stems, and on petioles and fruits.

Measures to combat bacteriosis include compliance with crop rotation rules, timely identification and destruction of infected seedlings and plants, disinfection of protected soil and treatment of seedlings with fungicides.

The author of the video will tell you how to disinfect a greenhouse after growing cucumbers.

Thermal method

It involves pouring hot water onto the greenhouse soil.

It is advisable to dig it up first for deeper penetration of boiling water.
Usually they are shed at least 3 times, after which the entire watered surface is covered with film to maintain the elevated temperature for a longer period of time.

The method is simple, but it is difficult to determine whether it brings more benefit or harm. Indeed, under the influence of high temperatures, the beneficial microflora is almost completely destroyed. I think this technique is more appropriate for small areas.

Land like fluff is the key to a decent harvest

The soil for planting in the greenhouse is prepared in the fall - all vegetation, garter devices and tools are removed, the soil is dug up, and then left to rest for the winter.

All these events can be carried out in the spring, if there was no time in the fall.

Preparing the soil in a greenhouse

For those who have the opportunity to get to their dacha at any time of the year, it would be a good idea to replenish the soil in the greenhouse with snow from the site. This will fill it with natural moisture and beneficial microelements.

When the land is ready for cultivation, it should be dug up (if the land was cultivated in the fall, the process will be easy and quick) and fed with organic fertilizers - peat, humus. Add ash. We level the ground, make it free of lumps, remove the roots and sprouts of revived weeds.